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Ball Joints


I would recommend replacing the uppers as well as the lower while you're going to be in there already. When I replaced my upper and lowers I bought the upper joints without the control arms and it was a real pain having to get those upper ball joints pressed in. Also I didn't replace the bushings for the upper control arm and now I need to go back under there and do that. So I would go ahead and make it easy on yourself and buy the whole upper control arm with the joint and bushings
 
Mine sounded awful! think thats why the previos owner sold it. I replaced upper arm assemblies and Lower balls all after having truck only 2 weeks. The popping and creeking totally gone. Had a negative camber issue, now thats corrected. Truck now has better ride and quieter. Expense was worth it. (about $265 but had to rent $100 removal kit)
Not very difficult took about hour and a half each side.
 
Sorry I didnt directly answer question, I tried several part store chains and they all said the upper goes as a complete arm and no ball joint only available. I wasn't to pleased, but you do get 4 new bushings as well and dont have to struggle pressing in and out the joint.
 
But make sure you take them out of the box, look on the end with the zerk fitting, and see "Problem Solver" stamped into them! I got some at a local chain parts store and they were brandX and definitely inferior. The guy that worked there said Moog factory reps came in and took brandX ball joints off the shelf and put them in Moog boxes they brought with them. Probably legal too...

i have noticed in the 3 years as a parts guys that some of the pieces in the moog boxes dont have problem solver stamped into them and some of the replacement parts for newer cars arent even greasable. just my observation

Im glad someone else has noticed this, as I have also spent a good number of years selling parts. Moog doesnt make every single part that they sell, they outsource a few. I've bought Moog control arms that were sealed in another brands plastic...Its all about offering the widest array of applications to their customers. They also dont offer the "problem solver" part for every application either. Problem solver parts are parts whose original design has been upgraded to higher quality to prevent common failures associated with the OE design, and usually are equipped with a zerk fitting. The parts not labeled as problem solver typically are OE design very similar to their sister company TRW, owned by federal mogul. Sometimes they come with a grease fitting, sometimes they dont. I've also seen parts store chains relabeling current leftover inventory (brand X) as the replacement (Moog) by both a sticker and even new boxes altogether. While Moog themselves arnt doing this (and obviously wouldnt want to have customer complaints due to another brand's inferiority), your best bet is to physically examine the part you are buying beforehand. Most parts stores wont have a problem doing that unless it isnt a stock item, which in case they will want you to pay for it, as to put a deposit on the items.
In saying this, I not only recommend Moog, but also use Moog parts on all of my own personal vehicles and any that I work on, just check to see what you are buying.

To get back on track....If I were breaking into the frontend to replace any balljoint, I'd replace them all, especially if they are factory originals and havent been replaced before. My ideology is that if your gonna do it, might as well do it right. You can save money now, and do it again later on, or get it done and not have to worry about it at all. The OE balljoints arnt servicable, and the whole control arm must be replaced. With the replacement Moog control arms the balljoint can be replaced. Finding the part number and having availability to it can be another story. Anytime you buy Moog it should come with a Lifetime Warranty. If you know the guys at the local parts store you can usually get a replacement no problem :secret:
 
As staed already. Moog problem solver. You can order them off Rockauto. I am 99% positive your 98 will have a snapring on the upper BJ. I too would recomend replacing the uppers while you are there. If you don't change the UCA you don't need an Alignment it comes down to MONEY. Try to replace what you can afford with good parts while working on that area. I did Brake pads and wheel bearings while I was in there
 
Remember, pressure is applied to the threaded side to press out, and the clip side to press in.
 

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