Ball joints - Upper control arm stuck to knuckle ?


I think you might be further ahead to just replace the lower arms complete.

Many times the lower arm bushings don't come out so easy.

New arms have new bushings and lower ball joints installed already.
This is what I did. It’s a lot easier to give the torsion bar some persuasion when the whole bar and arm are out from under the truck. I also greased the ends of the T-bar before re-assembling. Rust is a real problem here.
 
Well I took all of your advice and started shopping at rockauto and I ended up with a whole bunch of mevotech "supreme" parts.. ( https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/?cartid=62bebc27c8f97a062f7fa545ae18ed2c for those who are interested) I hope that translates into me not doing this again within the next 50k miles. I still have to figure out what kind of grease they used in the factory, it doesn't look like I can keep greasing until the old stuff comes out. One of the learning points is that I'm now preemptively silicone spraying my other car's bushings as this area is dry dry dry.
@pjtoledo - you mentioned new caster/camber adjustment bolts - would that still apply if I got brand new upper and lower arms, single style ?
I went with adjustable bolts even with new arms. You’re gonna need an alignment anyway, and they will probably need them.
 
Well I took all of your advice and started shopping at rockauto and I ended up with a whole bunch of mevotech "supreme" parts.. ( https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/?cartid=62bebc27c8f97a062f7fa545ae18ed2c for those who are interested) I hope that translates into me not doing this again within the next 50k miles. I still have to figure out what kind of grease they used in the factory, it doesn't look like I can keep greasing until the old stuff comes out. One of the learning points is that I'm now preemptively silicone spraying my other car's bushings as this area is dry dry dry.
@pjtoledo - you mentioned new caster/camber adjustment bolts - would that still apply if I got brand new upper and lower arms, single style ?
yes, adjustable bolts are a good idea.
what do you have now?
square plates on the bolts means they aren't adjustable. ( well, yes if you get different squares)
the factory assembled the suspension, determined what adjustment was needed and used the correct squares.

if the big end washers are round or sort of oval they can be rotated to move the bolt in-out.
 
Well I took all of your advice and started shopping at rockauto and I ended up with a whole bunch of mevotech "supreme" parts.. ( https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/?cartid=62bebc27c8f97a062f7fa545ae18ed2c for those who are interested) I hope that translates into me not doing this again within the next 50k miles. I still have to figure out what kind of grease they used in the factory, it doesn't look like I can keep greasing until the old stuff comes out. One of the learning points is that I'm now preemptively silicone spraying my other car's bushings as this area is dry dry dry.
@pjtoledo - you mentioned new caster/camber adjustment bolts - would that still apply if I got brand new upper and lower arms, single style ?
I don't know about the Mevotech supreme. I know the TTX are very good and have a good reputation. Their base line products are not viewed very favorably.
 

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