Autozone carb for Duraspark swap?

[TenSeven]

I'm trying to get my stock 2150A sorted but if I can't, will this carb from Autozone be a good replacement for the Duraspark Conversion?

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delive...ers-z-2-8l-2bl/381198_0_0_3498/?checkfit=true

 

[bronco2fan]

Looks a lot like the one I'm using on my 2.8 . Let me look and I'll post a pic.

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[bronco2fan]

Ok, should be fine. Looks just like mine. I had to get the Holley kit for the throttle hook up because the ball on the linkage wouldn't fit the cable and make my own return for the spring to hook to.

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[bronco2fan]

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[TenSeven]

Ok, should be fine. Looks just like mine. I had to get the Holley kit for the throttle hook up because the ball on the linkage wouldn't fit the cable and make my own return for the spring to hook to.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

Nice! Thanks for the pics.

It looks like you have the port for the ported vacuum advance capped?

 

[bronco2fan]

Honestly didn't notice lol. I just hooked up the distributor to the tree on the manifold. It was a closer source for vacuum. Haven't had her on the road since swapping the carb out so I just tuned it at idle and throttled up by hand. Guess I'll have to look at it again and re-route it.

 

[Catch22556]

Same exact carb i got for mine when i ditched the crappy 2150A. I just went through RockAuto not Crapperzone, works great.

 

[TenSeven]

Same exact carb i got for mine when i ditched the crappy 2150A. I just went through RockAuto not Crapperzone, works great.

Good to know, thanks.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delive...-base-gasket/67582_3496_0_1213/?checkfit=true
Be sure and get this spacer if you get the new carb.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Honestly didn't notice lol. I just hooked up the distributor to the tree on the manifold. It was a closer source for vacuum. Haven't had her on the road since swapping the carb out so I just tuned it at idle and throttled up by hand. Guess I'll have to look at it again and re-route it.

There are two ported nipples for that carb you have your bowl vent connected to the one you want to go to the dizzy. Just keep the one on the side capped. The bowl vent should go down to the carbon cannister. If it runs good on the tree you can always keep it there also and just plug the other ported nipple it is like a direct vacuum leak pulling air from the float bowl.

 

[TenSeven]

Hi Kim.

Thanks for all your help on trying to get my 2150A working.

After changing the jets and making the manual metering block, so far it's running worse in that it won't get close to idling rpm's with our backfiring out the drivers side exhaust only. In case I had a vacuum leak on the drivers side, I pulled it, cleaned out all the passages and reattached the metering block just in case. I should be getting the Crane Adjustable Vacuum can today so that the lack of 'ported' vacuum problem 'should' allow me to fine tune 'manifold' vacuum advance at idle (the Crane can can still come into use regardless).

If this carb continues to be a PITA after doing the above then I'll just dump it altogether for the Autozone model.

 

[RonD]

Yes, it can be from too rich a fuel mix, unburnt fuel in exhaust is being reignited, but can also be from retarded spark timing.

There is essentially no vacuum at idle using ported vacuum, so no vacuum advance.
If you set base timing at 10deg BTDC you can get some backfiring because full ignition in a cylinder is happening late so doesn't cool down enough, when exhaust valve opens the hot gases reignite any unburnt fuel in the exhaust, and backfire occurs.

Try advancing base timing to 12 or even 14deg

 

[TenSeven]

Yes, it can be from too rich a fuel mix, unburnt fuel in exhaust is being reignited, but can also be from retarded spark timing.

There is essentially no vacuum at idle using ported vacuum, so no vacuum advance.
If you set base timing at 10deg BTDC you can get some backfiring because full ignition in a cylinder is happening late so doesn't cool down enough, when exhaust valve opens the hot gases reignite any unburnt fuel in the exhaust, and backfire occurs.

Try advancing base timing to 12 or even 14deg

Hi Ron.

Good to know, thanks, I'll give it a try. Kinda weird that it's consistently 'only' popping/backfiring on the drivers side with both mixture screws the same. Backing out the drivers side mixture screw by several full turns did help but the popping still continued.

I haven't got a chance to run it after cleaning and re-installing the carb yet but I'll see how things go.

 

[TenSeven]

Spent 4 hours trying to get the 2150A right, but the popping persists. Very strange in that when screwing in the drivers side mixture screw, the farther in it goes the more popping, too lean I suppose, but, when the mixture screw is backed out enough to stop the popping when revved up from idle it will backfire out the air cleaner and belch a puff of black smoke out the drivers side exhaust, too rich assume?

I messed with the metering block idle mixture. The popping will start when the screw is backed out, too lean I assume, and go away when screwed in, richening I assume, but I really never felt a 'smoothing out' of the idle which remains rather rough.

The timing remains at 12 DBTDC with the manifold vacuum line plugged, connected back onto the can the idle timing is 31 DBTDC. Using about an 1/8" blade screw driver I felt I might have found the adjuster inside the can. But, turning all the way in either direction does nothing to change the idle timing.

 

[TenSeven]

As Ron suggested, I'll mess with the timing today to try to get rid of the popping. I'm not real confident that this carb can be straighten out any more than it is.

Autozone is having a 20% off sale today.....very tempting at this point.