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Anyone interested in a Dana 35 TTB E-clip eliminator spring...


The internal spring is no good. I welded my cap on the first time the spring popped through. The next time the spring popped through it tore the cap. There isn't room in there on my truck at least. That's why I did the external one. And I did have to make it and it was a pain in the ass--involving twisting the larges spring I could find in the standard spring set at ACE harware around a big deepwell and heating the spring with MAPP gas to relax it to it's new size. Then trimming to fit. I would have to take mine out to give you the exact dimensions but it was a little trial and error to get it right. It needs to be tight enough to stay put.
 
how long was your spring Will?

I plan on givng them dimensions tomorrow and see what they can come up with for quantity pricing.
 
I popped a couple internal springs thru the oem cap also. I ended up removing the cap completely, took the shaft to the hardware store and got a grade eight washer that fit as close as possible. I ended up grinding the edges a little, sand blasted the shaft so it was clean and welded it up. Been in there for three years and I check it everytime I clean and pack the bearings after a trail ride and it is perfect.
 
Yo,
If anyone has access to Echo power equipment, they use a spring in their bump head that fit my shaft with a just a little coaxing. its P/N 69621655730. It cost about $4.
 
Yo,
If anyone has access to Echo power equipment, they use a spring in their bump head that fit my shaft with a just a little coaxing. its P/N 69621655730. It cost about $4.
Was that for the inner eliminator or external eliminator?
 
Yo,
If anyone has access to Echo power equipment, they use a spring in their bump head that fit my shaft with a just a little coaxing. its P/N 69621655730. It cost about $4.
Found one locally. I will grab it after work today and see what it will do for us who want to use this.
 
Yo,
I diddn't have to modify the spring at all, but it was a tight fit around the splines. As soon as it cleared the splines it fit fine.
What I did was use a flathead screwdriver, set it in the grove of the spline and used a light hammer to "coax" it along. I would hammer on one side, then work my way around the shaft, hammering on different places on the spring. Make sure you post up pics, I didn't take any. Good Luck!
 
Pictures and a How to:


This is another way to eliminate the E-Clip found in the '84-'90 Bronco II, '91-'94 Explorer, or a '83-'97 Ranger Dana Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front suspension.


Difficulty: 4 out of 10


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The spring is 2-1/4" long with a 1.445" OD and a 1.2395" ID.
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First off, you have to squeeze the spring over the splines of the male passenger axle shaft. This can be a pain if you don't have a vice. You will have to sort of stretch the very bottom coil and slip it over the spline. Then you need to slowly drive the spring down over the splines of the shaft.
The spring rest against the end of the female inner axle shaft.
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After that, you should do something to keep it from slipping over the groove in the shaft. I chose to run a weld around the axle. This will keep the spring from popping over the groove and causing it to fail.
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Now you can re-install the boot and use a pair of hose clamps to hold it on. Remember to grease up the axle splines before you slide the female end over the male end.
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Finally, you can re-install the axle into the truck.
 
Looks Good! On mine with that spring it feel like there is enough tension to keep it in place, does it feel that way for you too?
 
Oh yea, it feels like there is enough. If there isn't, then I will move the spring up and add another bead to it as a stop.
 

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