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Anybody use ladder bars???


If these ladder bars i made dont work out ill let u know about the explorer springs.
 
You say this like there is catastrophic consequences.....

I know it's not enjoyable, and hard on springs, mounts, and hardware. But does it result in some sort of massive bad failure?
I have been trying to imagine one for myself aswell, as I am approaching the end of my 5.0L install and I run 2" blocks right now. For all the negative attitude towards blocks I actually like mine. They keep my springs up and out of the way for log/rock crawling, and just result in a tidy'er look from the side that I really like.

I always thought these things would interfere with flex thought, and flex DOES matter to me, alot.

Dishtowel, I have had my 302 on the road for about 3 weeks now and I can tell you there is a MAJOR difference on the rear end...When I power-brake in the GRASS the rear end moves a lot.....and when put the truck in reverse it causes the driveshaft at the 3rd member to jolt a great deal.....I haven't did my 8.8 swap yet but I guarantee that 7.5 is not gonna hold long.....:annoyed:
I mean we are talking about an upgrade of at least 100 hp. plus
35" tires......
 
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ya, defiante axle wrap there, id run some just springs before running a ladder bar,blocks are killers for axle wrap...
 
Dishtowel, I have had my 302 on the road for about 3 weeks now and I can tell you there is a MAJOR difference on the rear end...When I power-brake in the GRASS the rear end moves a lot.....and when put the truck in reverse it causes the driveshaft at the 3rd member to jolt a great deal.....I haven't did my 8.8 swap yet but I guarantee that 7.5 is not gonna hold long.....:annoyed:
I mean we are talking about an upgrade of at least 100 hp. plus
35" tires......

Alrightalright, I hear ya. As much as I would like to dream that I will be gaining 100hp, the numbers say I'm not. The 'numbers' say i'm gaining 10-15 hp. WEAK. But, this is a virgin fresh 5.0L vs a 280,000 km 2.9. I'm pretty sure I'll notice. And I'm gaining 150% more torque.

Thank your for your input on this. I will defiantly be paying close attention to this once i'm rolling.

What do you have for springs? I have explorer leafs, the zero rate is removed and replaced with a 'add-A-leaf', with 2" blocks this got me 5.5-6 " of lift.
 
^^ see, that's my problem.....I'm running factory leafs with 2-2" blocks....wrap is gonna get me yet!!!!!!

10-15 hp??? It's gotta be more than that...the 2.9 is like 150hp brand new...@280k? way less than that...a stock v-8 has at least 200hp.....And you'll def. tell the difference....I rode my buddy in it the other night and he was amazed at the change.....
 
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^^ see, that's my problem.....I'm running factory leafs with 2-2" blocks....wrap is gonna get me yet!!!!!!

10-15 hp??? It's gotta be more than that...the 2.9 is like 150hp brand new...@280k? way less than that...a stock v-8 has at least 200hp.....And you'll def. tell the difference....I rode my buddy in it the other night and he was amazed at the change.....

nope, alot of the 5.0's were setup to be turds from the factory, u can thank emissions for that.

the 2.9 made the most power per Ci of any engine of its era
 
If dishtowel is running an efi 5.0 with no junk and with headers that is almost the same as a Mustang 5.0 setup and they come stock with 220hp....
 
5.0L, efi, no more emissions garbage, but I still have ExhaustGasRecycle.
Stock towncar exhaust, steel curved manifold, better than cast iron garbage headers, but not performance, and apparently i'm running the Underwhelming E6 heads.

I have been mentally playing down this 5.0L and what sort of HP it will produce for me so that once I drive it I will be pleasantly surprised. (if that makes sense)
 
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yea, plan for the worst.....hope for the best.....ha-ha...
 
yea, plan for the worst.....hope for the best.....ha-ha...


the 2.9 has the most power per cubic inch of engines in the era, its simple as that,

302CI 220hp
177CI 150 HP


you do the math.......
 
the 2.9 has the most power per cubic inch of engines in the era, its simple as that,

302CI 220hp
177CI 150 HP


you do the math.......


I do agree that the 2.9 was a stout contender. But I think it was rated at 140. But that matters not. My 2.9 was a long ways from 150....

I will be giddy if I get 220 out of this 5.0L
 
the 302 is still gonna have a lot mroe torque than the 2.9. thats gonna cause axle wrap
 
the 302 is still gonna have a lot mroe torque than the 2.9. thats gonna cause axle wrap

Noted, noted. I agree with you. I'm hoping my springs/blocks combo will not be as problematic as rangerslim's.

Anyways, I have a massive picture folder of ideas and things of interest pertaining to 4x4ing. Unfortunately I only have 2 worthwhile pics of ladder bars.

This one is simple and effective, but I believe it will hinder flex. Perhaps if both bolts had rod ends/heims it might not be a problem. (this might even be 4x4Junkie's picture.... If it IS his, then it must not be hindering flex to much, because he has respectable flex!)
2929003_316_full.jpg

(Pics dont show anymore???)


I think this was a 'for purchase' item on some online store. Very tidy. Very out of the way. and still effective. I *think* there is some sort of rod end/heim where it connects to the frame. I suspect I will eventually make something like this. But I will have my vertical plate (the one with 3 holes) farther away from the frame to avoid it hitting the frame duing up-travel flex.

2929003_317_full.jpg



On my Nova back in the day I had to put anti-wrap bars with the leafs on both sides. I think they look cool, plus they 'say' that you have something to brag about. Or they say you are to cheap to buy proper springs, lol. But they are not an option if you want any sort of flex.
 
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i wouldnt go with chrome, its always weaker. Like on tractor trailers, Chrome is usally the last choice for moose racks, unless you dont do alot of highway driving like a delivery truck or something, jus my $0.02 worth..

Jeff
 
I have thought of making a "stinger" type setup. Basically a long arm with a pivot near the trans crossmember and the beam going underneath the diff, maybe tying into a diff skid plate. That would protect the driveshaft but may cause interference with the u-joint ?? Maybe run the beam beside the driveshaft??


Just some ideas.
 

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