Alternator acting crazy

[Josephus]

that's true, it is only remanufactured. However it tested well thrice on two different bench testers. I also got it to work by giving the I terminal 12V. Most wiring diagrams i found online indicated it should be going (through a resistor) to Hot-in-run. The only schematic that didn't was the Haynes wiring diagram for the truck, which has it going to the voltmeter, then ground.


the voltmeter never has worked for me, and I haven't taken the dash apart to check continuity to it, but I did try to ground the I terminal (again, through a resistor, 220 ohm) with no impact. Only when I gave it 12V, through res, did it come to life.

Before today i'd always done this after the engine had cranked. Today i tried cranking with it already hooked up to 12V (no resistor). and it wouldn't fire. not sure why. I'm going to try again the old way to make sure i didn't mess it up with no res, then i'll keep the res in line and try again with it hooked up during crank.

Plan G is to wire in a push-button to the dash to light up the alternator after you crank it. Trust me, I'd LOVE to know the proper way to fix this thing. That's the whole reason for this post.

J

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

the wire off the I terminal should have battery voltage coming from the voltmeter with the harness unplugged and key on.

if it doesn't then the instrument cluster is pretty easy to remove. 2 screws under the ashtray and then the rest snaps off revealing 4 screws holding the cluster in.

 

[Josephus]

Hey, thanks!