Advice on a First Time Welder?

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I did some googl on the welder and reviews are so-so.
check the reviews here;
https://www.amazon.com/Century-80GL-Flux-Cored-Welder/dp/B000QFMB60?tag=959media-20
and here;
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.century-80gl-flux---cored-wire-feed-welder.1000752726.html

Cleaning flux core I use a wire wheel on a 4.5" grinder and a pointy chipping hammer.
Go to the wrecker and cut out some panels to practice on before doing your truck.

 

[saskbill]

Hey, guys.

Any thoughts on whether I’d be able to use this one (Craigslist) for my purposes? It’s been a while since I started this thread, so to re-iterate, I need to be able to weld up some body mount brackets on my Ranger, as well as to weld in some rust repair panels in the floor pan:

https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/d/century-80gl-mig-welder/6619236050.html

Had an older one of these (from back before century was bought out by Lincoln) unfortunately got stolen last year.

For what they are, they are a good little 110V wirefeed. Heavy little box from big copper coils. Having four heat ranges (two hi/low switches) is a big plus when welding thin sheet. Finish is never going going to compete with 220V mig (with gas) nor TIG, but she'll stick metal together with passable results, if you help it all you can:

- Give it all the amps you can, on a 20A circuit if possible. Do not put it on a ling skinny extension cord - as mentioned if you must use an extension cord, make it a 12 gauge or even 10 if the run is long.

- Use quality flux wire and keep it away from humidity - I have heard that many suggest far better results using say Lincoln wire than say a Harbor Freight/equivalent. The wire has a limited life once out of the plastic and is apparently not amenable to reconditioning in the like of a rod oven (rod flux is outside the electrode, wire flux is inside the metal).

I's say you could do much worse at the price for a 110V wire welder.

Edit: my bad - this has only 2 heat ranges (the 2nd switch is on/off) that would be the advantage of some of the higher-priced lincolns, especially for 110V models.

 

[55trucker]

Stay with the better brand of machine, the build quality is superior to the asian pieces that are out there.

I too have a Lincoln 140HD, it's been used for 12 years with no issues. It has built quite a few exhaust systems, repaired a few full frames, fabricated engine brackets & performed body work.

At max output it will weld up to 5/16" with either .035 flux (71T) or a Argon/CO2 gas bottle wire (S70).

If you're learning to weld then a better quality welder will do you better than a cheap item.

Look for either a 110v Lincoln, Miller or a Hobart. As suggested you may find them used, but get the biggest you can for 110v.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Stay with the better brand of machine, the build quality is superior to the asian pieces that are out there.

I too have a Lincoln 140HD, it's been used for 12 years with no issues. It has built quite a few exhaust systems, repaired a few full frames, fabricated engine brackets & performed body work.

At max output it will weld up to 5/16" with either .035 flux (71T) or a Argon/CO2 gas bottle wire (S70).

If you're learning to weld then a better quality welder will do you better than a cheap item.

Look for either a 110v Lincoln, Miller or a Hobart. As suggested you may find them used, but get the biggest you can for 110v.

So today I bought the Lincoln 110V Handy MIG that I mentioned at the beginning of this thread. 325 bones, but hopefully she pays for herself. One of the reasons I chose this one was the ability to add shield gas. Am I correct in thinking that this option will provide cleaner welds and allow me to weld aluminum if needs be? Also, any idea where I can actually buy shield gas and what is costs? The box says that it uses AR/CO2 (Argon/Carbon Dioxide?). I looked for it where I bought the welder, but they don’t carry it. Thoughts?

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

So today I bought the Lincoln 110V Handy MIG that I mentioned at the beginning of this thread. 325 bones, but hopefully she pays for herself. One of the reasons I chose this one was the ability to add shield gas. Am I correct in thinking that this option will provide cleaner welds and allow me to weld aluminum if needs be? Also, any idea where I can actually buy shield gas and what is costs? The box says that it uses AR/CO2 (Argon/Carbon Dioxide?). I looked for it where I bought the welder, but they don’t carry it. Thoughts?

yes, the shielding gas will provide MUCH nicer welds and will be alot easier to learn with imo
welding aluminum with a mig welder is a whole other conversation. you need a spool gun and a welder that can accommodate such equipment.

the shielding gas you'll need is a 75/25 (ish) argon and co2 mix. im not sure where you live but i know praxair and airgas stores are nation wide. i always get my bottles filled at praxair. but i know there will be other smaller companies near you who carry it too. just search welding supply stores in your area and tell them you need a bottle for a mig welder and they'll set you up. you'll need a regulator to regulate the flow also

 

[55trucker]

=So today I bought the Lincoln 110V Handy MIG that I mentioned at the beginning of this thread. 325 bones, but hopefully she pays for herself. One of the reasons I chose this one was the ability to add shield gas. Am I correct in thinking that this option will provide cleaner welds and allow me to weld aluminum if needs be? Also, any idea where I can actually buy shield gas and what is costs? The box says that it uses AR/CO2 (Argon/Carbon Dioxide?). I looked for it where I bought the welder, but they don’t carry it. Thoughts?

Aluminum requires much more amperage to weld than mid steel does.

If that Handi-mig tops out at 90amps that's not going to be enough to do the job.

If you've never welded with a flux-core (71T) wire it can be intimidating. The weld is stronger than that of an equivalent S70 wire but it takes time and experience to be able to get the puddle to flow cleanly & visually acceptable. The S70 gas wire is much easier to learn on than the 71T.

For a gas bottle such as an S sized or Q sized you can either set up an account at a nearby gas supplier (Praxair) to rent either bottle annually & pay to fill it as needed or one can purchase a small bottle (I think they are R sized) & it is yours for life & you fill it as needed as well.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

yes, the shielding gas will provide MUCH nicer welds and will be alot easier to learn with imo
welding aluminum with a mig welder is a whole other conversation. you need a spool gun and a welder that can accommodate such equipment.

the shielding gas you'll need is a 75/25 (ish) argon and co2 mix. im not sure where you live but i know praxair and airgas stores are nation wide. i always get my bottles filled at praxair. but i know there will be other smaller companies near you who carry it too. just search welding supply stores in your area and tell them you need a bottle for a mig welder and they'll set you up. you'll need a regulator to regulate the flow also

Thanks again, J_T_R. Just did a quick google search for welding supply stores (hard to believe that I don’t know where to find one around here). There’s a welding service/dealer about 10 minutes down the road from me (Amthor’s). If it’s not the right kind of place, I’m sure they could give me an idea of where to go. The nearest Praxair is about 60 miles away, the nearest Airgas about 22 miles away (according to their respective websites).

Any rough idea how much a small bottle of Ar/CO2 and a regulator would cost? Do I need to have the thread diameter of my welder in order to pick up a regulator, or are they standard size? Thanks and sorry for so many questions. I’m in over my head here, but don’t have much of a choice. Gotta sink or swim.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Aluminum requires much more amperage to weld than mid steel does.

If that Handi-mig tops out at 90amps that's not going to be enough to do the job.

If you've never welded with a flux-core (71T) wire it can be intimidating. The weld is stronger than that of an equivalent S70 wire but it takes time and experience to be able to get the puddle to flow cleanly & visually acceptable. The S70 gas wire is much easier to learn on than the 71T.

For a gas bottle such as an S sized or Q sized you can either set up an account at a nearby gas supplier (Praxair) to rent either bottle annually & pay to fill it as needed or one can purchase a small bottle (I think they are R sized) & it is yours for life & you fill it as needed as well.

Hey, 55trucker. Yeah, she’s only rated to 88 amps. It’s okay if I can’t weld aluminum with her (not sure where I got that idea from). I have an aluminum bracket on my VW that needs to be welded up, but I can pick up a new one on eBay for about 40 bucks. Or just skip it and do without the armrest. Bigger fish to fry.

Glad to hear that gas wire is a bit easier to learn on. I’m already nervous about screwing things up and plan to practice on some scrap first. Apparently, I need a regulator too? Any idea how much the two might cost? Money’s just been flying out the window with this project...

One a side note, when it comes to welding the floor pans, I need to decide whether to leave an overlap of 1/4” - 1” or to do butt welds. I watched a guy on Youtube that has me pretty convinced that butt welds would be better to avoid future rust at the overlap, but I’m sure they’re also more difficult, especially for a novice. Thoughts? Thanks!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I would do overlaps. Clean the joint and spray with a weld-thru primer/sealer. Then weld. Tack weld every 4" or so then weld about 1/2"-1" at a time going from one side to the other. This is to avoid warping.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

I would do overlaps. Clean the joint and spray with a weld-thru primer/sealer. Then weld. Tack weld every 4" or so then weld about 1/2"-1" at a time going from one side to the other. This is to avoid warping.

Yep, got the part about not trying to weld a continuous bead, but thanks. My concern with overlaps is the fact that I’ll be able to weld the edge on the top (inside the cab), but won’t be able to weld the exposed edge on the bottom (from under the truck). So one seam will remain unwelded. Would seam seal be sufficient to protect this “loose” edge? If so, would POR-15 stick to it? I plan to coat both top and bottom of the floors with it. Thanks!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Would seam seal be sufficient to protect this “loose” edge? If so, would POR-15 stick to it? I plan to coat both top and bottom of the floors with it. Thanks!

I don't know. I would probably do the por15 first then seal with a butyl rubber caulk then paint. But this is out of my paygrade....

 

[55trucker]

Glad to hear that gas wire is a bit easier to learn on. I’m already nervous about screwing things up and plan to practice on some scrap first. Apparently, I need a regulator too? Any idea how much the two might cost? Money’s just been flying out the window with this project...

Personally.....

I'd take the machine back & get a model (Lincoln) that includes the regulator with the welder. It would be less expensive for you in the long run.

 

[55trucker]

Personally.....

I'd take the machine back & get a model (Lincoln) that includes the regulator with the welder. It would be less expensive for you in the long run.

I do not know where this retailer is located.....but that's a good price on the 140. It's a better welder than the 100 & everything you need for a bottle is there.

https://www.atwoods.com/lincoln-electric-easy-mig-140-k2697-1.html

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Personally.....

I'd take the machine back & get a model (Lincoln) that includes the regulator with the welder. It would be less expensive for you in the long run.

On further inspection, the Lincoln that I bought does indeed come with a regulator.

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

Another great weldable coating is "steel it"