Absolutely Zero Power to Ignition or the entire truck

[Mello1420]

So, last Friday I went to potentially get my truck running with a friend that's had a countless number of these trucks..

Well, it's worse than when it started.

When I turn the key on. Absolutely nothing happens. Anywhere. But, I am fully capable of turning the engine over by the starter. Battery is brand new.fuses are all great. Not a clue about the relays but I have flip flopped them around a few times just because.

I'm about to scrap this damn thing it's done enough of a run around and around and around with me for to long.

I just was reminded about a fuseable link somewhere on the truck??
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

So, last Friday I went to potentially get my truck running with a friend that's had a countless number of these trucks..

Well, it's worse than when it started.

When I turn the key on. Absolutely nothing happens. Anywhere. But, I am fully capable of turning the engine over by the starter. Battery is brand new.fuses are all great. Not a clue about the relays but I have flip flopped them around a few times just because.

I'm about to scrap this damn thing it's done enough of a run around and around and around with me for to long.

I just was reminded about a fuseable link somewhere on the truck??
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hows the battery terminals?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Main grounds, battery terminals…

Not sure on the third gen trucks but there is a main fuse off the battery or alternator that is not in the fuse box, on my 4th gen’s it’s next to the engine fuse box under a cover. If that goes, it kills everything.

 

[zjjjj]

The fact that your starter can turn means the thick, main power wire from the battery to the starter motor is good. If the main fusible link was blown, the starter wouldn't get anything either, so that's probably not it. I'm not a pro, but I'd guess the issue might be worn contacts in the ignition switch itself.

 

[Suwanee Broncos]

You're going to need the wiring schematic for yours, but the method would be the same:

Locate the ignition switch under the plastic garb and attached to your steering column. Find the power feed wire to the ignition switch. It's probably going to be the fattest one on the connector. Early 80's early 90's it was a yellow wire, I can't confirm that for yours.

It should be hot at all times.

If it is not hot, but the IGNITION fuse is good: confirm that you have power coming to the fuse. You could have a bad connection/ burn out/ corrosion in the underhood fuse box. The bottom pops off and you can inspect that. You could also have a damaged feed wire. There could also be a fuseable link in this line. This is where the schematic is so important.

If it is hot, your switch could be bad. This is the most likely. With the feed wire hot and key "on," look for other terminals to be hot. Not sure what your ECM power wire color would be, I think mine is red. Your crank wire should energize during crank. (My crank wire is pink/ black on a 1992, then turns red/ blue after the Neutral Safety Switch all the way to the starter solenoid.)

My money is on a bad ignition switch, followed by a burned out terminal on the IGN power fuse location, for losing all power AND crank.