About to strike a match

[saskbill]

Inertial switch is last on the circuit (after the relay) before the pump. Looks like you diagnosed your problem - if you hadn't replaced the pump I'd be looking at that too to figure why the switch was melty.

I had the inertia switch go bad on my '88. Picked up a nice shiny one off a newer (89-92, forget exactly which year) at the wreckers for a couple of bucks. Fortunately grabbed the socket as well, cause the switch/socket are a similar but different style on the newer ones! Wired her up and good ever since.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I`m thinking the inertia switch was possibly getting hot from a high amp draw from the faulty pump or a bad connection causing alot of resistance. Kind of a snowball effect the fuel pumps will try and use the specific amp draw and with a bad connection it creates resistance causing the heat and the pumps running on low amps will also heat up the windings in the pumps. Replace the inertia switch and connector if it is not in good shape and then monitor it feeling the connectors and wires if they are getting hot you still have issues maybe check the amp draw for the pumps. Be sure and check the fuel pressure once you get it running if there is a restriction in the return line it will wear the pumps out also. Try and determine why the the fuel pump failed if everything checks out thats all you can do. Changing parts is the easy part just cross the T`s and dot the I`s.

 

[englewoodcowboy]

Thanks for the info. My kid rolled the truck on its side this winter in the heavy ice. It landed against a tree so it never went more than 90 degrees and only damaged the bed rail. Anyway when I pulled it down and got it out of the ditch it fired right up so I never thought the switch could have tripped but the root intermittent problem was there before his accident. Iam in agreement that the rear pump had to have failed and caused the switch to melt. The rear pump I dont think had worked in quite a while as the truck would lose power on grades (read that loss of power on a grade is a symptom of the in tank pump failing somewhere) and when I diagnosed that and fixedit, my kid didn't pay as close attention to the fuel lines when we reinstalled the tank and pinched them causing the regulator failure and the over fueling issue. All has been straightened out and its made a couple trips in town and back with no issues. I think the mpg might have improved a touch but not sure yet. I also read that a coolant sensor could cause poor mpg and I need to look into that. The truck only gets about 14mpg and I would expect it to do much better than that.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Reset the computer and erase the memory then run it for about 20 minutes and pull the codes. You want to do that whenever you clean/change a sensor but just disconnect the battery for half an hour if you havent done so yet to reset the computer that may improve performance in itself.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Oh yea did you confirm the fuel pressure with a guage?

 

[doorgunner]

Oh yea did you confirm the fuel pressure with a guage?

annnnnnnd....reppped for providing the solution(s)



save the matches for a campfire

 

[englewoodcowboy]

I did check the pressure the other day when we discovered the return line was piched causing the regulator to rupture. I will check it again before I reset the computer BUT before I do that I guess I need a code reader. Any suggestions on brand etc? I know there are several kinds and if I am going to drop a benjamin or two I would like a decent unit that I can use on all my vehicles if possible. I mean if they make a $50 one that does everything for the OBD I vehicles then I will get that and buy an OBD II scanner later.

 

[adsm08]

I have a Blue-Point Microscan Pro that I bought specifically for my Ranger. It cost about $400 but does all engine codes on OBDII, FOMOCO, GM/Izuzu, and I think Yota ABS, and it does Ford, GM and Toy OBDI.


Also, 14 MPG is wrong, but I would expect too much more. I have never been able to reliably get more than 17 or 18 out of my Ranger.

I did get 20-21 for a while, but I was driving 30 miles one way to work, all high way, no traffic, no idling, and that was only in summer.

 

[englewoodcowboy]

I have a Blue-Point Microscan Pro that I bought specifically for my Ranger. It cost about $400 but does all engine codes on OBDII, FOMOCO, GM/Izuzu, and I think Yota ABS, and it does Ford, GM and Toy OBDI.


Also, 14 MPG is wrong, but I would expect too much more. I have never been able to reliably get more than 17 or 18 out of my Ranger.

I did get 20-21 for a while, but I was driving 30 miles one way to work, all high way, no traffic, no idling, and that was only in summer.

Thanks, I will look and see if anyone is selling one on ebay.

I personally have always loved the little ranger trucks and bronco II. I was sad to see Ford discontinue them for the US market and Im not too thrilled about the global ranger, trucks today have gotten away from simple utilitarian uses and are more and more like the el camino and ranchero, overgrown cars with a bed, not simple to work on or too fancy inside that you cringe getting in them after a hard days work out of fear you will mess up the fancy luxury interior...