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About to be a Ranger owner, but...


Oh wow! Thanks for all the replies everyone! I must have email alerts disabled.
So, to address a few things. This is from an auto broker with a good reputation (AFAIK). Trust me, I'm shaking my head at not checking under the hood, but absolutely will before finalizing any deal. For what it's worth, he did have a carfax report and the report from the vehicle inspection / service. Showed it got a timing chain cover gasket replaced.
On my test drive I did discover that the MAX AC works great, but the regular AC blows hot air. Seller has arranged to have this repaired. That I can see as an easy one to miss, because the simplest way to test the AC is to put it on MAX AC.
The 3.0 definitely has all the power I would need, and I won't be driving it enough that fuel savings from going to the 4cyl would be significant. There are some 4.0s on the market, but none local (would mean a trip to the mainland), and none in the apparent condition of this one - it's very, very clean.
Another plus of this one is: no odour. I'm an ex smoker myself, but a truck that's belonged to smoker is right out. Has all the nice options too, like power windows / locks / aftermarket Alpine sound system.
I guess it comes down to how much less I offer if it is indeed a 3.0.
 
I'm gonna say it has the 3.0 based on the air intake tube looks like a 3" tube instead of a 4". I thought all 4.0's said "4.0 liter" on the plastic cover on top of the engine as well.

You definitely should have popped the hood and checked the oil.. For all you know there could be no oil on the dipstick lol. I think the dealer suckered you into all the nice looking stuff instead of the pertinent information like engine size and 2wd or 4wd...… Please don't get played by a dealer, they love suckers and once you sign that paper they have the upper hand.

In other words, it's your money, be careful who you give it to.

Believe me, I'm shaking my head at not checking under the hood. If I decide to proceed with the deal, it will certainly be for a renegotiated price. If the dealer says "well you signed the agreement", I have no problem threatening legal action. I have registered the add on the internet archive, so if he tries to pull a fast one by changing the add, I can point to that as evidence.
 
I wonder why anyone would put a set of fairly aggressive all terrain tires on a 2wd and the truck sits high for a 2wd.
Perhaps if they're trying to pass it off as a 4x4....?
Honestly I'd probably try to sell those and put some good all-seasons on. The most off-road use I foresee is the occasional gravel lane...maybe dry grass field.
 
Id renegotiate price because its not what you thought you were buying. And if they wont budge, Id walk and tell them its due to their false advertising. Its bad enough when a private party doesnt know what their selling, but a dealer? no excuse when its your business.

Will definitely be renegotiating. I have no need for the power of the 4.0 as I don't foresee the need to tow much, if at all. This will primarily be for trips to the lumber yard, the dump and the garden center for mulch and what not.
 
The cost difference for a used truck with a 3.0 vs 4.0 is pretty marginal. Especially when the truck is otherwise in such good condition. I would try to negotiate down (you should always negotiate when buying a used vehicle) but if you had 2 identical trucks one with a 4.0 and one with a 3.0 I'd say the cost difference MIGHT be a couple hundred bucks more for the 4.0.

The weird errors the dealer made in the listing aside (yes I think thats sketchy) I still think its a fair price for that truck. It is extremely clean, miles aren't very high, and it looks like it was well cared for. But if any other shady nonsense pops up, yea probably best to walk away.
 
I see so many wrong ads its not funny, claims of a manual transmission when in the pictures for the ad you can plainly see its a automatic. One ad from a dealer claiming a vintage 87 had a 4.0, when I pointed out it was wrong unless someone did a engine swap since the 4.0 wasn’t offered until 1990 I was blocked. How hard is it to verify what youre selling? Id renegotiate price because its not what you thought you were buying. And if they wont budge, Id walk and tell them its due to their false advertising. Its bad enough when a private party doesnt know what their selling, but a dealer? no excuse when its your business.
Hey, the NADA guide says a 460 was optional in my 88 Bronco 2 and my 87 Ranger....they claim those are just generic terms used...I said if that's the case your values are 100% incorrect because if you chose the right engine the 2.9L V6 it immediately cuts about 15% off the value.

Most dealers do the same thing, they use a blanket listing, and if you are lucky they may update it to show the right VIN. The dealership I got my 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee from listed it as a Laredo, base....after looking it over and putting the VIN into a Chrysler decoder I found its actually a SE, so 1 step from base model, but basically its a Limited without the Limited badges....also has selec-trac 4WD, and rear limited slip, none of which the dealer had listed, and had no clue what I was talking about when I asked about it....So I ended up with a great deal on a "limited" Grand Cherokee because a dealership wasn't smart enough to do just a couple minutes of research.
 
The person in charge of making the listings is probably just a computer nerd with zero car knowledge. They get handed a vague description of a random vehicle and are told to make an ad.
 
If he won't budge on price, with the below average kms, get them to include some extra 3 rd party warranty (like Lubrico, they give you freedom to choose your mechanic). Costs them next to nothing and gives you extra piece of mind. Just make sure the tires aren't too old and/or full of cracks.

I also went with 4 cylinder because it is easiest to work on and less moving pieces for long term reliability. I wish it were manual transmission, but a 4 banger with stick is hard to find in Super Cab.
 
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If he won't budge on price, with the below average kms, get them to include some extra 3 rd party warranty (like Lubrico, they give you freedom to choose your mechanic). Costs them next to nothing and gives you extra piece of mind. Just make sure the tires aren't too old and/or full of cracks.

I also went with 4 cylinder because it is easiest to work and less movie pieces for long term reliability. I wish it were manual transmission, but a 4 banger with stick is hard to find in Super Cab.

If you think a duratec is easier to work on then a 3.0 you are very very high. :icon_rofl:

The 3.0 is a basic old fashion pushrod engine. The 2.3 is a dual overhead cam engine made to be mounted in front wheel drive cars, half the crap on it requires performing insane tasks like removing the transmission to replace the egr valve, or taking the wheel and fender off to change the pcv valve. Wanna replace the timing cover gasket? Youll need a complete cam alignment tool set. :icon_rofl:
 
If you think a duratec is easier to work on then a 3.0 you are very very high. :icon_rofl:

The 3.0 is a basic old fashion pushrod engine. The 2.3 is a dual overhead cam engine made to be mounted in front wheel drive cars, half the crap on it requires performing insane tasks like removing the transmission to replace the egr valve, or taking the wheel and fender off to change the pcv valve.

We'll see how it goes.
 
Thanks for all the input, folks. I pulled the plug on the deal and got my deposit back. Dealer made it a really easy decision by pretending we didn't have the conversation we clearly had about it being a 4.0. When I suggested we renegotiate the price, he just said "not happening, I've got people lined up for this truck". Ad still lists it as a 4.0 4wd.
What a slimeball.
I paid the deposit via debit. He asked if I'd take a cheque for the refund 🤦‍♂️. Uh...no. I should have just said, "not happening".
Got my eye on a couple others for sale. One '05 3.0 with only 77k kms, and another 2008 4.0 with 100k kms. I'll be part of the club soon!
 
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I would make a low offer, stating that it obviously needs new muffler bearings and tire gaskets, and a spark plug coolant flush.
 

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