A little confused about two codes.

[Hoosierman]

So I've been recently trying to diagnose what could ultimately be a misfire (didn't think so at the time), and so I used a Ford scanner to retrieve codes and what I got were 18c and 67o.

One of them has to do with each and the other is the neutral safety switch I think. On the NSS, the truck was in neutral (5-speed, no parking brake!) and I read that if the clutch wasn't depressed during the KOEO test, it could throw the code. True?

On the other code, it's worth mentioning that I've tried three different TFIs, one a brand new Motorcraft. It could be a fault in the wiring and it could also be the PIP. Does anyone have further information on that?

Ill be testing for a misfire next weekend, I figured I'd like to gather some information on those codes from knowledgeable gear heads on this forum in the meantime.

Thanks!

 

[franklin2]

On code 18, you do have the SPOUT jumper inserted correct? And those jumpers have been known to go bad.

You are correct about the code 67. You can try again and when prompted, push the clutch pedal in.

 

[Hoosierman]

On code 18, you do have the SPOUT jumper inserted correct? And those jumpers have been known to go bad.

You are correct about the code 67. You can try again and when prompted, push the clutch pedal in.

I removed the Spout, cleaned the contact points and reinserted. Could I just jump it with some wire to see if it improves anything? For context: I'm not fully versed on what those do, but I recall them being used for timing adjustment.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I wouldnt worry a whole lot about 18 as a continuious memory (c) code. If you research it NUMEROUS EECIV fords end up with this code and no one really has ever figured out why. I know my ranger had it and ran fine. My B2 did to untill i changed the ECM...


67 ive only gotten when doing a KOEO test with the truck in first gear. Never heard it being caused by not hitting the clutch.

These things while computer controlled are still pretty old school. A missfire is more likely to be a rotor, cap, plug wire, plug or possibly injector.

 

[SenorNoob]

Some Rangers (Mine!) don't have a place for a neutral switch on the transmission, so to avoid that code you have to hold the clutch pedal down like you're gonna start it.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Some Rangers (Mine!) don't have a place for a neutral switch on the transmission, so to avoid that code you have to hold the clutch pedal down like you're gonna start it.

Hmm....learned something new lol

 

[franklin2]

I removed the Spout, cleaned the contact points and reinserted. Could I just jump it with some wire to see if it improves anything? For context: I'm not fully versed on what those do, but I recall them being used for timing adjustment.

The distributor sends out a pulse when the engine is running call the PIP. This goes to the computer and to the TFI module. The computer takes the PIP and according to conditions, modifies it to vary the timing of the spark. It sends this modified PIP signal back to the TFI module through the SPOUT connector.

To set the timing on these engines, you have to take control away from the computer so you can set it with a light. You take the control away by pulling the SPOUT connector. You then set the timing, usually 10 BTDC, and when done, put the SPOUT back in and give the timing control back to the computer.

If you leave the SPOUT connector out, or have some other problem with it, the TFI will still fire the coil with the PIP, only your timing will always be 10 BTDC, no matter what rpm or other conditions. Does not make for great fuel mileage and power, but it will run ok.

 

[Hoosierman]

I'm starting to suspect it's the PIP in the distributor. I'm lucky that I have spare parts for all sorts of things that came with the truck, but it looks like I'll replace the distributor.

Aisin makes them, and Aisin seems to have a solid reputation.

 

[franklin2]

I'm starting to suspect it's the PIP in the distributor. I'm lucky that I have spare parts for all sorts of things that came with the truck, but it looks like I'll replace the distributor.

Aisin makes them, and Aisin seems to have a solid reputation.

I would not buy a Cardone rebuild from one of the parts houses. Cardone is about the only game in town for rebuilt distributors and they do a lousy job of it.

 

[Hoosierman]

I had to buy a Cardone 30-2691 for my '84 Duraspark. But even then I knew it was the less desirable option...

 

[Hoosierman]

Update.

I finally installed the new distributor, set timing to 10 btdc, made sure rotor was at spark plug 1, actually it was just a little before, and it cranks but won't start... I hope I didn't get a faulty distributor..

 

[franklin2]

Update.

I finally installed the new distributor, set timing to 10 btdc, made sure rotor was at spark plug 1, actually it was just a little before, and it cranks but won't start... I hope I didn't get a faulty distributor..

You really can't accurately set the timing to 10 BTDC statically(engine not running). I would leave the dist bolt just slightly tight, to where you can grab the distributor and turn it a little bit, but it stays where you put it. I would then turn it a little one way, try it, turn it a little bit the other way and try it, and see if it tries to start. You might get it to start, you can then still grab the dist and turn it a little bit if it's not running very good, and then you can put a light on it and set it to 10 BTDC. Don't forget the SPOUT connector, out to set it, back in to run it.

 

[franklin2]

P.S. I have found on these engines, the sparkplugs are easily fouled. If you keep messing around with a engine that gets fuel but does not run, the plugs can foul and it will not hit a lick. You can pull a plug or two and see what they look like. If they smell like gas they are probably fouled. You can take a wire brush and brake cleaner and usually clean them up enough to start firing again.

 

[Hoosierman]

Right, I remember the process from the Bronco II, although for me it was slightly different converting to Duraspark.

So, I did a lot of testing today and found that I have NO SPARK. Well, after a while, it seems the ignition coil finally petered out- and I actually was suspecting it would go out before too long, for one, it was a cheap parts store unit. So, tomorrow I shall get the new coil. Speaking of the devil, the coil on my Bronco II is also not outputting any spark. I'm starting to sound like my grandfather "it's the coil!!"