A/C Low Side Ball-Bearing Valve Replacement


RangerNeophyte

10+ Year Member

Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
19
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1,601
Vehicle Year
1997
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Manual
I just bought a low side valve that screws into the top of the a/c accumulator on my 1997 Ranger. Quick question:

How is the frick do I get the old valve removed?

I tried simply taking a pair of pliers to the base of it and turning. That didn't do a thing. I figured I'll try putting some liquid wrench on it to try to get it loosened up a bit more.

Any other ideas?

Also, should I use some Nylog or thread tape on when putting the new one on?

Thanks in advance!
 
There is a tool for replacing those valves. Do not put any tape or sealer on the new one, and make sure the system is fully discharged and under vacuum before you remove the old one.

Oh, and liquid wrench was probably a bad idea.
 
There is a tool for replacing those valves. Do not put any tape or sealer on the new one, and make sure the system is fully discharged and under vacuum before you remove the old one.

Oh, and liquid wrench was probably a bad idea.

The tool for the valve replacement I do believe is only for the Schrader type of valve. The type on my Ranger is a Ball-Bearing type. That means I'll have to replace the whole stem.

Well it looks like it'll just take some time and patients with the 'ol wrench somehow.
 
I believe the whole service port needs to be replaced, not just the rubber ball-valve inside. See listed part #'s in post #6 here:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...vice-port-valve-info-should-help-you-out.html

Low side: http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-59945-Service-Evaporator/dp/B000DELVKG?tag=959media-20
High-side: http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-59946-Service-Adapter/dp/B000DCNG7E?tag=959media-20

The tool is a NON-standard pair of OCTAGON shaped (not hexagon) sockets. See Mastercool Service Port Sockets (high-side: 98234) and (low-side: 98134):
A/C Low Side Ball-Bearing Valve Replacement


Yes, please make DAMN SURE your refrigerant lines are discharged and empty. At normal air pressure, not under vacuum.
You'll be opening the entire line to the open atmosphere when you remove the old leaky valve. After you install the new valve, you need to draw a new vacuum and recharge your A/C system with the correct weight of R134a.

Fwiw, I was just about to replace mine, too. Pesky leaky ball valves. Grrr. Meanwhile, the screw caps are still holding.

Aside:

I think the handy tool to replace ONLY the internal schrader valve (not ball valves) is something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-81490-R134A-Remover-Installer/dp/B000KITSMI?tag=959media-20
 
Last edited:
I believe the whole service port needs to be replaced, not just the rubber ball-valve inside. See listed part #'s in post #6 here:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...vice-port-valve-info-should-help-you-out.html

Low side: http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-59945-Service-Evaporator/dp/B000DELVKG?tag=959media-20
High-side: http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-59946-Service-Adapter/dp/B000DCNG7E?tag=959media-20

The tool is a NON-standard pair of OCTAGON shaped (not hexagon) sockets. See Mastercool Service Port Sockets (high-side: 98234) and (low-side: 98134):
A/C Low Side Ball-Bearing Valve Replacement


Yes, please make DAMN SURE your refrigerant lines are discharged and empty. At normal air pressure, not under vacuum.
You'll be opening the entire line to the open atmosphere when you remove the old leaky valve. After you install the new valve, you need to draw a new vacuum and recharge your A/C system with the correct weight of R134a.

Fwiw, I was just about to replace mine, too. Pesky leaky ball valves. Grrr. Meanwhile, the screw caps are still holding.

Aside:

I think the handy tool to replace ONLY the internal schrader valve (not ball valves) is something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-81490-R134A-Remover-Installer/dp/B000KITSMI?tag=959media-20

Appriciate the help.

I found these here for about $20:

http://www.amazon.com/Supercool-R-134A-OCTAGON-SERVICE/dp/B00DOYCDL8/?tag=959media-20

think they'll do the trick?

See, my caps are holding more or less, but there is just enough loss to require a recharge every couple months. Bad for the environment, bad for my wallet, time to replace.
 

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