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99 ranger front gears


yes i know this but what about getting the c-clips off the axles? it's a little tight in there with the S springs still in place.

93Ranger4x4
 
I've also read the tech page about rebuilding a trac lok but all it suggested was vice grips and a rubber mallet, and there's no way i can hit the springs with a rubber mallet and the vice grips keep sliding off, this axle has 3.55 gears in it right now and it even stated that axles with 3.55's might have a little trouble getting the S springs out because the gears are so thick.

93Ranger4x4
 
Once you take the crosspin out and push the axles in there should be plenty of room to grab the c-clips.
 
I tried to push on the axle shafts by myself and i couldn't get them to push in, thats how tight this axle is. I might try it again next weekend, it's startin to get pretty cold here in ohio, winds gusting big time, wind chill of 0 or below. I'll give it a try next weekend or somethin, thanks for the help though.

93Ranger4x4
 
Have you taken the crosspin out, with that out of the way they should slide in super easy (assuming tires and brake drums are off).
 
Yep, thats the first thing i did. I took the crosspin out. I couldn't seem to move the axles in and out, it was fairly tight. The gears and exerything turn smoothly, no noise when i'm rotating it. Both axles are turning at the same time when i turn the diff.. I'm gonna try and see if i can just pop them out with a pick or a screwdriver this weekend. I can stick my fingers in there and move the c-clips around fairly easy.

93Ranger4x4
 
Well, i got the axles and everything out. Started replacing the bearings on the inside of the axle after taking the pinion gear and seals and such out. One problem. As i started taking the 2 bearing races out a shim came out and i have no idea on where the hell it goes back in, any ideas? Also, how do i know what size the shims are for the pinion depth? i haven't got the bearing pulled off the old pinion gear to use the old shim off of it yet. Well, lemme know what you guys can tell me.

Thanks,
93Ranger4x4
 
I've only had to work on one electric transfer case system. It ended up being the control module itself that was bad, despite it self testing good. There are sensors in the system too, any one of those, if it's bad, might prevent your system from working properly.

As far as the pinion shim goes, and I know this is a Ford axle, but Dana axles have the pinion shim size stamped into the pinion itself. Maybe the Ford gears do to?
 
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The marking on OEM Dana pinions is how much the pinion deviates from a standard reference point (in other words, if your old pinion has -1 on it, and the new one has +2 on it, you'd subtract .003 from your shim stack thickness to put it in the same position relative to the ring gear). Unfortunately most aftermarket gears lack such markings, so you'll have to use conventional trial & error methods to set those up.


Did the shim fall out after you took the pinion race out, or before? If it came out after the race, it's possible it's a pinion depth shim (which on Dana axles, goes under the inner (main) bearing race). Ford axles normally have them under the pinion bearing cone though, so I'm not sure that's what it is.

IMO, if you're not sure how to check your shim thicknesses, you may be over your head on this.
Gear setup is not something to take lightly, there are numerous tolerances that if not correct (even within a couple thousandths), the gears may fail without provocation. You might want to take it into a shop and have them do the setup on it (or maybe if you have a buddy that's familiar with it, you can seek some help on it from him).
 
The marking on OEM Dana pinions is how much the pinion deviates from a standard reference point (in other words, if your old pinion has -1 on it, and the new one has +2 on it, you'd subtract .003 from your shim stack thickness to put it in the same position relative to the ring gear). Unfortunately most aftermarket gears lack such markings, so you'll have to use conventional trial & error methods to set those up.

Thanks for the correction. I knew the numbers were stamped on there, I misremembered what they indicated. I wasn't sure if aftermarket gear sets had them or not, so thanks for that info as well.
 
Dustin, if you need some help hit me up.. I may know someone who can help you out, assuming the diff is out of the truck.
 

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