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96 B2300 5-speed manual tran bell housing


auto117584

15+ Year Member

Joined
Oct 1, 2009
Messages
302
Points
3,101
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
is it steel or aluminum?

I've drilled out a broken engine/casing bolt with 1/4" drill bit. Extractor still won't get it out. Want to put heat to it a little bit. I heard that could mess up the bell housing, because it is aluminum. Is that true?
 
Dont think so. Just dont heat it as long, aluminum has a faster heat transfer then cast iron or steel....it wont take long to expand the metal around the bolt.
 
Dont think so. Just dont heat it as long, aluminum has a faster heat transfer then cast iron or steel....it wont take long to expand the metal around the bolt.

what i did was, i took an old long sleeve shirt and wet it, then wrapped it on both sides of the bell housing both above and below the bolt hole. then i blew the propane right through the drilled-out bolt, getting it good and hot. the extractor still wouldn't take it out, so i used my 5/16" drill bit and visually removed the remaining bolt from the hole, by reaming in and out, working on old bolt residue that was lining the threaded hole. now i need to buy a tap to rethread, or clean out the threads, so the new bolt will go back in there. this is after i had to drill out one of the passenger side engine mount bracket bolts ( the top one), and knock the head off it with a cold chisel and 3 pound sledge. i'm having fun out there in the garage! had to remove the engine mount so i could get at the broken engine/tranny bolt with the drill. fun. :icon_bounceblue:
 
that works...just be careful when retapping. The helix of threads still left in there likes to catch...and you can easily break the tap. Make like 1/4 turns at a time..then back out and u will hear the helix snap...then go back in 1/4 turn further...takes a while.
 
that works...just be careful when retapping. The helix of threads still left in there likes to catch...and you can easily break the tap. Make like 1/4 turns at a time..then back out and u will hear the helix snap...then go back in 1/4 turn further...takes a while.

thanks for the tip... i wonder if i'll need to buy a set of taps and dies, or if i can buy just one, like at the local NAPA...

do you know how to determine a bolt's nomenclature? do i simply measure the diameter of the unthreaded portion of the bolt and then count the number of threads per inch?

also, do you know if there's a place where i can find a master list of parts for my truck, like a book on line? i hate to spend money to buy another book. :icon_confused: thanks
 
The book i dont know about.

The size and pitch..you are correct, however if its a metric bolt that makes things difficult. I would bring one to an autozone or hardware store, they usually have studs you can compare it to...just put the threads of yours against theirs...they should mesh perfectly or its not the same size.
 
you seem to know a lot, so i'm going to ask you which suppliers you recommend for buying a ladder/materials rack for my ranger extended cab. and for a work camper shell, to hold tools, maybe organizers, maybe home-made organizers that can convert to a wide bed for sleeping back there, with the tools underneath. I did that once to a full-size ford, it was awesome. wore the thing out. the "bed" was even with the top of the truck bed.
 

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