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94 Ranger xlt overheating issue


Joined
Jan 31, 2023
Messages
9
City
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Hey guys getting desperate at this point was looking for some advice. Have a 94 ranger 4.0 that keeps running super hot. So I started with the basics, changed the thermostat, the radiator had a slight leak, so I replaced that too.went ahead and replaced the radiator cap while I was at it (because for some reason a brand new radiator doesn’t come with a cap), still running hot. Went ahead and replaced the water pump that looked to be the oem from 94 STILL running hot very close to red lining on the gauge. I also have decent heat in the cab of the truck. So I’m just a little lost and looking for any insight on what I can try to tackle next. Also to add I’m quite sure I burped the system adequately.
 
Any chance the gauge is off ?
If not there may be something clogged somewhere
 
I guess I haven’t checked to see if the gauge is accurate, but it even smells hot if you know what I mean. And are you thinking a clog in the engine itself? Almost all part in the cooling system are new except the heater core so I’m not sure but I don’t think any of those units would be clogged
 
Man, that's all I could think of :/
My first thought was a clogged radiator but then realized that couldn't be it
 
It could be a bad sending unit. But if you say you think it is actually running hot then maybe not. A clogged heater core wouldn't make it run hot so don't bother changing that! It's not an easy job!
 
Have you checked the temperature difference between the top and bottom radiator hoses?
Have you flushed the system - especially the heater core?
Reversed the heater core hoses?
Temperature sending unit?
Temperature sensor?
 
Is your fan shroud all good?
 
is it slowly losing fluid each time you drive? and no sign of it going anywhere?

get one of those kits and check the headgaskets too. the ones you put on top of the radioator opening and pour the fluid into so it measures the fumes from the radiator. they are like 40 or 50 bucks but it will tell you if you have a headgasket leak and its just not "bad" yet. i have driven on a blown headgasket that wasn't "bad" for over a year on a previous car


welcome to the site, also
 
You need to get an actual temperature reading instead of assuming the gauge is accurate. IR temp guns are about $20 on Amazon or at Harbor Freight. Use that to check the temp of the heads, lower intake, block... should read no more than about 200 degrees +/-. Is the coolant boiling out of the radiator into the overflow tank? Losing any? Steam from the exhaust that smells sweet? (hard to tell this time of year.) Engine oil that looks like chocolate milk? Any other issues with it running abnormally?
 
stick a cooking thermometer into the radiator
 
I’m not losing coolant and the top hose is hot and the bottom is not very warm at all. I’ll need to buy a IR gun to get more accurate. I’ll do a cooking thermometer later today in the radiator. It shows no signs of a bad head gasket except the over heating. Oil looks fine, white smoke stops after it warms up its 20 degrees here, no bubbles in the radiator or overflow.
 
Does it stay normal while idling but go hot while driving?

I ask because that can be a collapsing coolant hose happening when the water pump reaches a higher speed.
 
The thermostat has one of those wiggly deals in it that goes at the top when you install it? Or it had a solid plate?
 
Those last two are very good questions 94. The bottom (return ) hose should have that spring-looking thing that keeps it from collapsing when the thermostat opens and the pump is pulling water through it.

The thermostat too is a good question and it must be right side up, and right side out, for it to work.

Both very easy to miss if there's anything else on the mind
 

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