'94 4.0L Fuel Pump Problem

[OldBlue61]

A diagram I have here shows 2 black wires as ground. 1 black/pink from inertia switch. And 1 yellow/white from gauge.

Thanks. I found my Haynes manual and found the same thing. At least now I can troubleshoot it when I get home from work today. Funny that my Ford service manuals didn’t have that information in them.

 

[sgtsandman]

Thanks. I found my Haynes manual and found the same thing. At least now I can troubleshoot it when I get home from work today. Funny that my Ford service manuals didn’t have that information in them.

The Service Manuals can be quite cryptic sometimes. I'm sure the information is there. Finding it is another story. This is one of the reasons I keep a Haynes manual around.

 

[OldBlue61]

Success!! Replaced the fuel pump relay with a new Echlin one and started right up! Don’t even need to check anything else - steady 40psi from the new pump and working properly. I’m a happy camper. Thanks for everyone’s help.

 

[Terrys87]

Great to hear you got it fixed and what the issue was.

 

[OldBlue61]

Well, I may have jumped the gun...

That euphoria was short lived. While the pump was bad, the old relay wasn't. After a few successful test starts I got the truck mostly back together including reinstalling the bed. Of course, this time it didn't start - just cranked. After I calmed down, I opened the hood, hooked my fuel pressure gauge to it again and turned the key - nothing. Opened the relay cover again, tried wiggling the relay, and the pump can to life for a fraction of a second. I smacked the relay with the heel of my hand and the pump came to life.

The old relay is fine - the problem lies in the box it plugs into. So I only wasted $20 on a new relay, not bad in the grand scheme of things. If I smack the relay (new one or old, doesn't matter) with a little force, the pump comes on. I even drove it a bit and it was fine, though I'm sure I didn't 'fix' it by smacking it. It would appear the connections in that relay box assembly (can you call it a fuse box?) may be a bit loose. I may have to figure out how to pull it out and take it apart to have a look at it.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@OldBlue61
I've not read your whole thread yet.
At this point I believe that you now believe your problem is in the engine compartment fuse/relay box.

Have you dove in and took it apart yet?

Do you know anything about the Ford Ranger EVTM?
Looks like this for the 1994 Year:

I live in Dayton Ohio I do know that for some people it's late. And I too have a 1994 4.0L automatic regular cab 2wd long bed.

I'm not expecting a reply tonight, I'll finish reading your thread and wait.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Okay @OldBlue61
I've now read your whole thread.
Once you've read this,
If you would like I would be more then happy to post some pictures of some pages out of my EVTM = Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual
For you to use to help yourself.

However I've already posted most of the pages pictures in my Thread ( I'm Sure I got a Short )
If you would like to look at them there instead.

I personally have gotten a lot of good help from the members of TheRangerStation.
I'm more then willing to do what I can to help someone else.

Good luck to you fixing your truck.

 

[OldBlue61]

Thank you for the offer and assistance. When I get home from work today I’ll search for the thread that you posted to and let you know. I have the other Ford factory service manuals but not the EVTM one.

 

[rumblecloud]

The Power Distribution Box comes out easily enough. As you might expect, lots of wires holding it in place make it difficult to wrangle around. Take pics when/if you start removing them.

The EVTM is not too expensive and they are very helpful. You can find them on EBay.

Good luck with the fix and I'm glad you tracked it down.

 

[OldBlue61]

The Power Distribution Box comes out easily enough. As you might expect, lots of wires holding it in place make it difficult to wrangle around. Take pics when/if you start removing them.

The EVTM is not too expensive and they are very helpful. You can find them on EBay.

Good luck with the fix and I'm glad you tracked it down.

Thanks. I did just order the EVTM from eBay. $41 for a new one is pretty decent IMHO. I will take some pics when I tear into it, though it may be a while, since I can get it to start now, and I need to get my tractor in running condition before it gets too much warmer around here. The Ranger may take a back seat for a bit, put I will post pics to this thread when I start on it.

 

[sgtsandman]

I'm guessing you're going to find some corrosion under there.

At least it seems like you found the problem. Hopefully, all it needs is a little bit of connector cleaning and tweaking. You may have to resort to getting a box from a junk yard. I've seen it a number of times on a couple of the youtube channels I follow that do vehicle repairs.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@OldBlue61 not trying to bug you to much or rush you in any way.
However do you happen to have any updates on your progress with your truck?
Or if you've officially put it on the back burner would you mind letting us know?

Thanks and good luck.
I hope you are able to get your truck and Tractor both running and operating to the best of their abilities.
And hopefully afterwards you'll be able to have a lot of fun with your truck.

 

[OldBlue61]

I'll get to it in a bit, it's just not the priority it was before. I don't drive it that much (2-3k miles a year) and I can get it started now if I need to. It rarely gets driven on the road anymore, mostly just on our property, helping to maintain things. Right now I have to concentrate on getting my tractor back into operational condition. I'll probably get back to the Ranger in a few weeks, and when I do I'll post updates to this thread.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Thank you very much for the update. And letting us all know a little more about you.

I wish you much luck. And will be looking forward to your next update.

 

[OldBlue61]

Just a quick update...

As it turns out (at least for now) a little DeoxIT (which is a contact cleaner I use on my guitars), a little silicon paste on the terminals, and I haven't had another problem since (fingers crossed).

So, I had a bad pump which I replaced and at the same time (or very close together) I had a contact issue w/ the fuel pump relay. I did buy a new one (which is still in the box), so I'll just save it as a spare.

Roll on little Ranger, roll on...