92 Ranger Turn Signal bugs

[Alistar1776]

So, I'm stumped. Passenger side turn signal works great, both headlights on and off. With headlights/running lights off on the driver side, i get only the front signal. With headlights/running lights on, on the driver side, I get no turn signal at all, and the indicator on the dash remains constant on.
Bulbs are new all the way around, multifunction switch replaced, fuses are good, relay is new. When i have the lights off so the driver front flashes, its dim, and inconsistent. All help appreciated.

Edit: I should also mention hazards work except for driver rear.

 

[Weasel]

Check the voltage to the lights when in the various situations to see what level of voltage it is getting at the lights vs the light side of the relay, and the voltage before the relay. Check for resistance as well. If there is an issue with that (shorting) it could lower the voltage to the lights below what they need, when also trying to deliver sufficient power to the other lights.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I move this over to the lighting forum...

First clue is your left indicator being on... flashes but dim is another good one.

When things go wacky in the lighting system... especially if you have dim light and turn indicator on... you will find your problem is a bad ground. Front light system ground is on the core support I don't remember exactly where the rear lamp ground is but I want to say on the rear crossmember.

Another thing that is always suspect is rear lamp harness connector and any kind of trailer wiring.

I would be surprised if you didn't find your problem in the two areas I mentioned.

 

[dvdswan]

Do you have an aftermarket trailer harness?

 

[Alistar1776]

I move this over to the lighting forum...

First clue is your left indicator being on... flashes but dim is another good one.

When things go wacky in the lighting system... especially if you have dim light and turn indicator on... you will find your problem is a bad ground. Front light system ground is on the core support I don't remember exactly where the rear lamp ground is but I want to say on the rear crossmember.

Another thing that is always suspect is rear lamp harness connector and any kind of trailer wiring.

I would be surprised if you didn't find your problem in the two areas I mentioned.

Noted. Ill check those areas and post if I find anything.

 

[Alistar1776]

Do you have an aftermarket trailer harness?

Not to my knowledge. If it does, it was installed by previous owner some 10 years ago lol.

 

[Alistar1776]

Update: Ive gone thru and cleaned any ground i could find, then proceeded with testing with a test light. Fancy one, also gives me voltage readings anyway, i digress. Passenger side signal socket still has factory wire loom, so great for comparison. Functions as normal, brown wire runs constant on for running light, white with blue line flashes for turn signal, and black wire that I could see did anything at all at least on the test light. probably not good enough contact. Anyway, Driver side socket had been replaced by previous owner, as it was spliced in place. when headlights are off and turn signal only, green with white pulses, as well as black, i assume black is ground. With running lights/headlights on, I read constant power thru all three wires. 14v thru Brown and black, only 11.5 to 12v thru the signal wire. This is including the driver side signal on.

My theories are, there could be a short in the socket, or the headlight switch could have a short in it.

Let me know what you all think, and I appreciate the help. I hope I gave enough detail.

 

[dvdswan]

Were the light bulbs in the sockets? You should not see any power on the black (ground wire) unless the bulb is installed and the circuit is completed.

 

[Alistar1776]

Were the light bulbs in the sockets? You should not see any power on the black (ground wire) unless the bulb is installed and the circuit is completed.

Bulbs were in the sockets, yes

Edit: and in the problem socket, I did see power thru black, only when running lights/headlights were on.

 

[RobbieD]

Driver side socket had been replaced by previous owner, as it was spliced in place.

Redo the splices, in a proper manner, and consider putting in a new replacement socket when you do.

Most people simply can't make a good, permanent wire splice, and NEVER use scotch-lok type connectors (they barely work, and will corrode).

 

[Alistar1776]

Redo the splices, in a proper manner, and consider putting in a new replacement socket when you do.

Most people simply can't make a good, permanent wire splice, and NEVER use scotch-lok type connectors (they barely work, and will corrode).

Noted. And I learned the hard way on those scotch-lock connectors, used one when I installed a tach in the truck. Only worked about a week before breaking the connection.

 

[4x4junkie]

If you're measuring any voltage at all (more than one volt) between the black wire and the frame/body under any circumstance, then that is your culprit right there (open ground connection, as was said above). Definitely check those splices (ideal would be to solder them back together).

 

[Weasel]

Redo the splices and test again. If the results are favorable then have a beer and make the splices permanent with the recommended soldering, enclosed in shrink wrap. Ensure to tie off any wire to something sturdy to reduce movement. Have second beer.

 

[Alistar1776]

Redo the splices and test again. If the results are favorable then have a beer and make the splices permanent with the recommended soldering, enclosed in shrink wrap. Ensure to tie off any wire to something sturdy to reduce movement. Have second beer.

will do. Itll be a project for this weekend, so ill be a few days till my next update in the thread.

 

[Alistar1776]

Update: swapped in another socket on the driver side, still the same issue as before. could it be the switch in on the dash? its one that pulls out a click for dash and running lights, and a second click for headlights