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88 2.9 - *intermittent* top end noise


Dave_A

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Jan 21, 2010
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What's the best way to tell if this is 'harmless' or related to the (apparently infamous) head cracking issue?

I get an intermittent & loud-enough-to-be-annoying-inside-the-truck ticking noise....

Then it just 'goes away' for a while, as I drive.. And comes back, randomly.

Happens at all power levels (freeway, idle, slow-speed, etc) - both the 'ticking' and the 'stopping ticking'...

I also get a 'little bit' of smoke (not pressure, just a 'wiff' of grey smoke' from the oil-filler cap, but the oil reads full on the dipstick.

Any suggestions? No, I haven't done compression yet...
 
What's the best way to tell if this is 'harmless' or related to the (apparently infamous) head cracking issue?

I get an intermittent & loud-enough-to-be-annoying-inside-the-truck ticking noise....

Then it just 'goes away' for a while, as I drive.. And comes back, randomly.

Happens at all power levels (freeway, idle, slow-speed, etc) - both the 'ticking' and the 'stopping ticking'...

I also get a 'little bit' of smoke (not pressure, just a 'wiff' of grey smoke' from the oil-filler cap, but the oil reads full on the dipstick.

Any suggestions? No, I haven't done compression yet...

Are you down/low, or adding coolant frequently ??
When was the last time you changed your oil and filter? I presume , that you only have factory gauges....be interested to know what kind of oil pressure you have.

And Yes ...a compression check can tell you much, as well as a vacuum test readings would be good to know too.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/VacuumLeaks.htm
 
Replace your pcv valve and that may take care of your smoke from the oil cap, Mine didn't because I have a valve seal with a tiny leak, I just check my PCV valve every so often to make sure it is still working.


As far as your noise, do as IMEnriched said, and it could possibly be the signs of your oil pump going, Just did the pump on mine, solved my noise completely (except when it has been sitting for days and is under freezing outside, then when oil gets warm it goes away). I had 7 psi of oil pressure in my engine cold at 1100 rpms, and 30 at 4500 cold, replaced my oil pump and I have 60 psi of oil pressure cold at Idle, and 30 warm at idle, then i have about 65 psi at 4500 cold, and 60 warm. If you get a manual gauge, there is arguments on here of what the acceptable oil pressures are, but I think you need at least 30 psi at cold idle to be safe.
 
Last edited:
Ok.

I just got the truck last week, so I don't know the service history.

I'm planning on changing the oil this weekend, and not driving the truck 'till then.

A few questions:

1) Yes, I still have stock gauges.

IIRC (from the junkyard) some years/models (between the bronco-II and Ranger) had more 'complete' dash gauges - are the wires for a such there (eg, that I could swap the 'X-shaped' guage cluster with OP in), or do I need to buy an OP-indicating set from Autozone?

Does the truck even have an oil-pressure sensor?

2) If not, how do I check oil pressure?
 
Ok.

I just got the truck last week, so I don't know the service history.

I'm planning on changing the oil this weekend, and not driving the truck 'till then.

A few questions:

1) Yes, I still have stock gauges.

IIRC (from the junkyard) some years/models (between the bronco-II and Ranger) had more 'complete' dash gauges - are the wires for a such there (eg, that I could swap the 'X-shaped' guage cluster with OP in), or do I need to buy an OP-indicating set from Autozone?

Does the truck even have an oil-pressure sensor?

2) If not, how do I check oil pressure?

If the stock gauge cluster is working...then all you have is sending units, weather it's X-shaped or other wise.
I'm sure you could spend much effort in swapping in mechanical gauges to fit the factory display....shucks, there maybe even company that does it...but that prolly would run into some serious $$$.

Most just buy a seperate mechnical aftermarket gauge set and hook it up. where you get it is up to you...Autozone, NAPA, O-riellies, advanced auto...or any number of on-line oufits too.

to check the oil pressure you will need to disconnect & remove the oil sending unit and ( at least temporarily) hook up a mechnical gauge.
 
You don't have to disconnect the sending unit, I didn't on mine, u just have to put a T of the port on the block and u can hook both up, but i put my gauge on as a permanent gauge along with the factory gauge.
 
Ok...

Haven't gotten around to the OP or compression test yet, haven't run the truck either...

I did change the oil & check the coolant - got about 4.5 qts of oil out, black as tar...

Coolant was visibly low - empty overflow tank, and about 1/2gal of space in the radiator...

I am starting to think that I am going to find issues with the heads, when I do this.

Is $100 + S&H (per head) a good price for the 'World Products' aftermarket heads?

Given the age of the truck, and the 'fun' to be had with getting the exhaust off (twice,if I use scrapyard yeads) , plus the cost of magnafluxing/planing junkyard heads, etc...

It seems like buying new would be a good idea....
 
Ok...

Haven't gotten around to the OP or compression test yet, haven't run the truck either...

I did change the oil & check the coolant - got about 4.5 qts of oil out, black as tar...

Coolant was visibly low - empty overflow tank, and about 1/2gal of space in the radiator...

I am starting to think that I am going to find issues with the heads, when I do this.

Is $100 + S&H (per head) a good price for the 'World Products' aftermarket heads?

Given the age of the truck, and the 'fun' to be had with getting the exhaust off (twice,if I use scrapyard yeads) , plus the cost of magnafluxing/planing junkyard heads, etc...

It seems like buying new would be a good idea....

Have you taken it apart yet??
just curious if the new oil and filter helped with the oil pressure/ intermittent ticking noise??

Are you continually loosing collant?

as far as the WP heads...yeah that don't seem too bad...ultimately it is your money...& you know what fits your in your budget better than any one.

If your heads are cracked...maybe it would be nice time to funnel funds toward a 4.0 swap or other possibilities??:icon_bounceblue: but there I go spend'n others money again
 
I haven't run the truck since the oil change...

I am assuming that the low coolant had to go somewhere, the truck doesn't overheat or puff white smoke when it runs, so into the oil is the only other place I can think of...

Never got compression or oil-pressure readings, that's next on the 'to-do' list...

New heads will be the 'budget limit' for this truck, if compression testing shows a head problem.

I don't want to **** anything else up running it long-term, until I am sure one way or the other....
 

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