'87 Bii Transfer case disassembly/ shift fork replacement

[Ottieotter]

Hey all, been a while. Back with another question on my '87 Bronco II. Recently starting having a issue with the t-case where it keeps popping out of 4-low. Shifts into and out of 2WD and 4-high fine, just 4-low that's having the issue. After doing some research, I believe it's the plastic bushings on the shift fork have just disintegrated based on what it's doing. Not in any rush to get it fixed, I don't live where I need 4-low more than a couple times a year and I currently don't have a backup vehicle. On to what I'm making this post about: Has anyone had their T-case apart, and if so, how hard was it to get apart and are there any special tools I may need? T-case I believe is a BW1350 manual shift. Thanks!

 

[franklin2]

Just one question I have; Do you have to pull the transfer case shift lever to your leg to shift it? Or can you just pull straight back on it for any 4x4 mode? The reason I ask, I had one where the shifter was rusted to the left, and you could move it back and forth without having to pull it sideways. It would pop out of 4 low. Once I fixed the sideways pivot on the shifter, then I had to pull it sideways to get to 4 low and then it would spring back into 4 low and that stopped it from popping out.

 

[Ottieotter]

Just one question I have; Do you have to pull the transfer case shift lever to your leg to shift it? Or can you just pull straight back on it for any 4x4 mode? The reason I ask, I had one where the shifter was rusted to the left, and you could move it back and forth without having to pull it sideways. It would pop out of 4 low. Once I fixed the sideways pivot on the shifter, then I had to pull it sideways to get to 4 low and then it would spring back into 4 low and that stopped it from popping out.

I have to move it to my leg to shift it. I've had the T-case out 2 or 3 times along with the transmission. Linkage moves freely, and 4-low was working fine when I got the truck 2-3 years ago

 

[franklin2]

Also,, does it have a body lift? It's very common for a truck with a body lift to have interference with the shifter afterward. Go over a bump and it knocks it out of gear. Just covering all bases before you tear into the case.

 

[Ottieotter]

Also,, does it have a body lift? It's very common for a truck with a body lift to have interference with the shifter afterward. Go over a bump and it knocks it out of gear. Just covering all bases before you tear into the case.

It does not. Truck is completely stock

 

[Ottieotter]

Update: Looked at the exploded views for this T-case, looks like the bushings (or as B-W calls them, "Insert shift fork designation here" facing) are replaceable. I ordered a set of 4 and will update when the parts get here and I get the T-case apart

 

[Shran]

I have had a couple of these apart and it was pretty straight forward. Reassembly was kind of tricky as I recall, something about the two case halves and the chain and the output shafts took some effort to get lined up just right. There aren't really any special tools needed except for a big socket to take the nut off the rear output yoke. Since you will have it apart, it wouldn't hurt to put new seals in and inspect everything.

 

[Ottieotter]

I have had a couple of these apart and it was pretty straight forward. Reassembly was kind of tricky as I recall, something about the two case halves and the chain and the output shafts took some effort to get lined up just right. There aren't really any special tools needed except for a big socket to take the nut off the rear output yoke. Since you will have it apart, it wouldn't hurt to put new seals in and inspect everything.

Will do, thanks for the insight. It's a little leaky, so I would be stupid not to throw seals at it anyway.
Edit: Looks like Broncograveyard doesn't have the seal kit in stock. Any places you would recommend to pick one up from?
Edit#2: Someone may want to hold me back from touching anything other than the T-case. Trying to keep this from turning into a rabbit hole like the LAST thing I did on this truck

 

[Shran]

Here's a bearing and seal kit - RockAuto has them or eBay: USA STANDARD GEAR ZTBK1350

USA Standard Transfer Case BW1350 Bearing Kit | eBay

USA standard Transfer Case BW1350 Bearing Kit. BW1350 T-CASE BEARING KIT .. USA Standard Gear produces top quality transfer case small parts for repair and maintenance, including full top-to-bottom overhauls and rebuilds. USA Standard has one of the largest inventories of OEM and aftermarket...

www.ebay.com

If you don't want to replace the bearings while you're in there (check the outputs, I have found those to be severely worn fairly often) then you just need an input seal, both output seals, a shift shaft seal, and some o-rings. I can't find all that together as a kit.

 

[Ottieotter]

Here's a bearing and seal kit - RockAuto has them or eBay: USA STANDARD GEAR ZTBK1350

USA Standard Transfer Case BW1350 Bearing Kit | eBay

USA standard Transfer Case BW1350 Bearing Kit. BW1350 T-CASE BEARING KIT .. USA Standard Gear produces top quality transfer case small parts for repair and maintenance, including full top-to-bottom overhauls and rebuilds. USA Standard has one of the largest inventories of OEM and aftermarket...

www.ebay.com

If you don't want to replace the bearings while you're in there (check the outputs, I have found those to be severely worn fairly often) then you just need an input seal, both output seals, a shift shaft seal, and some o-rings. I can't find all that together as a kit.

I found just a seal kit on ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/174217096158
Though with my luck, the bearings will be on their way out since I didn't order the bearing AND seal kit

 

[Ottieotter]

Update: Was notified that my seal kit (and hopefully the fork bushings) were delivered today. Will give another update when the T-case is out and apart.
Edit: Just got home, parts are indeed in. Not going to be pulling the T-case out until the next week I have off school

 

[broncc]

Its not bad to do. Most of everything is held together with snap rings that need a screwdriver. You'll need a bearing knife for the one near the planetary. You will also need a long punch or brass rod to push out the bushing near that bearing. An impact works really well on the yokes. I had to use a chrome socket to fit into the hole, but it shouldn't be tight enough that you explode it.

I posted the rebuild manual in this thread for you. 1350 and 1354 are basically the same.

Something very important to get right is setting up the shift gate where it bolts to the tail housing of the transmission. Usually this results in popping out of 4 high but it may also be related to your problem. Loosen the smaller of the two bolts and rotate the gate clockwise (seen from the driver side). Put the transfer case into 4-hi and rotate the gate CCW until the stop almost touches the shift lever. Torque the bolt and you are done.

 

[Ottieotter]

Update: Got the T-case out and apart, the range fork bushings were paper thin, allowing that shift collar to have some free play. Just finished re-assembly, will update again when the transfer case is back in and the truck is driving

 

[Ottieotter]

Update: Transfer case is back in. About to adjust the shift gate and re-install the skid plate

 

[Ottieotter]

(Hopefully) Final update: Shift gate is adjusted, skid plate is back in, and truck has been test-driven. Drops into 4-high and 4-low and drives without issue. Thank you all for your help!