85 Ranger V6 Restoration Progress


Ripping and cutting some wire. Do i worry about the split or just cut where i need and rip out the whole harness? What sensors am i looking out for again? I know i need to retain coolant sensor and oil pressure sensor, do those just get cut along the way and rewired to cluster right?
 

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Used a voltmeter figured out which is my 12v on ignition. Is the same driver side harness for key on start position? I had a no crank when i disconnected all but 1 harness. Looking at the wiring diagrams if i pull out everything wouldnt i have to also worry about the clutch switch?
Also my fuel pump is tapped into the TFI coil… nice
 

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Messaged simon about coils for the truck and said this would be the best fit. As far as the balast is that something i need to worry about or nah?
 
As far which wires you need and dont need, I have no idea. Wiring is not my strong point. I can do the basics of troubleshooting but that is about it. I have replaced harness sections. As they were going down the line, harnesses have plenty of connect/disconnect for assembly. Trying to find where the connectors can be a chore sometimes and getting them routed correctly.
 
As far as the balast is that something i need to worry about or nah?
Down in the description it says "
IMPORTANT:
This coil is not suitable for vehicles with a ballast ignition system.
"
 
Down in the description it says "
IMPORTANT:
This coil is not suitable for vehicles with a ballast ignition system.
"
Correct thats my question. Am i going to even need it, it wont be apart of the circuit when i replace coil unless i DO need it. Its a 3ohm coil he says so i thought that would “bypass” the need for a balast. The powerspark distributor is just a positive and ground going to coil and key on feeding coil plus.
The balast is inline with key on or start position?
 
Correct thats my question. Am i going to even need it, it wont be apart of the circuit when i replace coil unless i DO need it. Its a 3ohm coil he says so i thought that would “bypass” the need for a balast. The powerspark distributor is just a positive and ground going to coil and key on feeding coil plus.
The balast is inline with key on or start position?
 

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What part is this? I noticed major leak in the area.
need to also order a ignition switch mine is no good.
 

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Hard to tell, but looks like the oil pressure switch/sender. Is it on the driver's side of the block?
 
Hard to tell, but looks like the oil pressure switch/sender. Is it on the driver's side of the block?
Yeah its on the driver side, wire harness runs to the cluster i believe. Just making sure i know whats what when i end up taking out the whole harness.
 
Distro is here, just need to order non feedback carb and ignition coil, some other things and it should be running. Gonna use timing light once things are running.
 

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I also wanted to mention, might make a thread later on for it. There is high output alternators that fit the 2.8. 240,320, and higher. They are typically 2 pin gm style internal regulator.
 
Pretty much got everything done for it to run just waiting on one more spark plug wire, set timing, etc… once its running like butter ill start doing some maintenance and addressing the leaks.

The new powerspark distro doesnt have a rubber oring, anyone familiar can tell me if thats something to worry about?? Should i just swap out the oring? It fits but the distro is designed slightly differently then OEM.
 

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