85 Ranger V6 Restoration [Discussion]


10 tooth drive gear ordered, will be here next week.
So close to getting this thing running, just some minor leaks i need to fix.
 

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Small stuff im cleaning up until more parts come in! Its coming along together nicely thanks to these forums. I want to be show ready by the end of the year. AC and everything stock functional
 

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When i get around to doing my valve cover and oil pan gaskets etc, what material are we using? Ive seen cork and other ones. Is there anything additional i would need?

The tube for the exhaust manifold to intake on the driver side, can this be blocked off somehow? Or is it necessary to keep it?.

Where can i find a blanking plate for the EGR valve? (No more TFI)
 
EGR plate ordered, shall see if it fits. I prefer billet look over making my own, plus it was only 20$.
Power steering i got around to (kinda) diagnosing the leaks. High pressure flare fitting seems to move around even being fully tightened, and a broken hose clamp on the other line.
Ive also gotten around to ordering a new door handle since i broke it trying to fix it. Found a rod for a 90s+ ranger, should fit, assembly looks close to the same as the 1st gen
 
10 TOOTH FORD ESCORT GEAR FTW!!
Easy asf to change out, a baby could do it!
Truck is cranking amazingly now, better then it ever has since Ive owned it. Back to setting timing!
 

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Now my air pump pulley is lock up. If its not one thing its another…
 
Since i have no ecm and took out all the vaac lines, do i need the smog pump? Shall i bypass it or replace it?
 
bypassed smog pump. truck is running on its own just fine, but it doesnt seem like timing marks are anywhere near close to desired 12 degree mark. more like 30+ BTDC.
any ideas?
ill probably end up going through the timing again and making sure its set right since i have a decent idea of the procedure now.
still adjusting the carb fast idle, its the screw near the choke cam right? and the curb idle is the screw on the throttle plate/cable?
 
also LOTS of smoke (oil) from the exhaust, please please someone confirm its just the bad valve stem seals. I hope its not bad piston rings or headgasket issue.
 
bypassed smog pump. truck is running on its own just fine, but it doesnt seem like timing marks are anywhere near close to desired 12 degree mark. more like 30+ BTDC.
any ideas?
ill probably end up going through the timing again and making sure its set right since i have a decent idea of the procedure now.
still adjusting the carb fast idle, its the screw near the choke cam right? and the curb idle is the screw on the throttle plate/cable?
12° would be with vacuum disconnected at distributor, fully warmed up, and at the correct idle. 30+ sounds about where it should be with vacuum hooked up.
 
12° would be with vacuum disconnected at distributor, fully warmed up, and at the correct idle. 30+ sounds about where it should be with vacuum hooked up.
ported vaacuum right? i did initial timing with vaacuum disconnected. i need to swap the hose over cause right now its off of manifold vacuum, been seeing mixed answers but ported vacuum should be where i want it at.

throttle response isnt a issue anymore lol, runs pretty minty, i just REALLY need to replace the spark plugs they are fouled really badly.

Ill start working on the easy seals (valve cover, oil pan) then im going to bite the bullet and MAYBE do the valve stem seals myself, i just dont have a air compressor. Might be time invest in one.

i also want to wait until the morning when truck is cold to finish adjusting my fast idle, this is all new to me but im figuring it out. Do carbs usually come tuned ? will i have to mess with AFR with a vacuum gauge or no?
 
Carbs do not come pre-tuned.
Tuning carb for highest vacuum probably is good idea.
You can use thin rope thru sparkplug hole to hold up valve. Use crankshaft bolt to turn engine to press rope to valve. You will be replacing sparkplugs anyway.
 
Carbs do not come pre-tuned.
Tuning carb for highest vacuum probably is good idea.
You can use thin rope thru sparkplug hole to hold up valve. Use crankshaft bolt to turn engine to press rope to valve. You will be replacing sparkplugs anyway.
i seen that, but i feel like shooting compressed air would be a better approach, plus if i do each cylinder one by one with it on compression stroke, i can verify if valves are sealed/ compression if i have bad piston rings.

but yeah i can most definitely do the rope method.

edit: just realised, does it even matter what stroke its on?
 

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