85_Ranger4x4
Wallers in rivers
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V8 Engine Swap
TRS Banner 2010-2011
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2007
- Messages
- 35,761
- Points
- 2,001
- City
- Frankfort
- State - Country
- IA- USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1985
- Engine
- 5.0
- Transmission
- Manual
Been fighting with leaking headers since I pulled the tranny out a few years ago. The engine shifted since I had put it in and when I loosened the exhaust it was under tension and I couldn't get it quite right. Also have had an odd pulsating rattle after hard acceleration post swap. Check wheel bearings, tire balance, driveshaft for slop in the splines. Then I noticed awhile ago the oil pan is rubbing on the crossmember, I suppose it torques over and it takes awhile for it to come back.
(engine is jacked up)
Anyway I knocked it in the head a few weeks ago to try to correct this. Been getting a lot of rain so it has been hit and miss being able to work on it outside.
When I did the head swap in '12 I tried to resituate the engine then by pulling it up and giving the engine mount nuts everything I could and get them tight. It still slid back down the slots.
So this time I shaped a piece of washer to fill in the slot and raise the engine on the PS side, it is a bugger to get to. You have to reach between the axleshaft and the axlebeam which is tight.
I did the same for the DS, I have a thin washer to put on but haven't yet to hold things in place. It is hard because I am about out of threads and it is on a curve. Much easier to get at than the PS though.
I also added washers (the domed one and two flat washers from the RA of my D28 demo) to bring that side of the engine up to match the block I have under the other side. At the time I was trying to roll the engine away from the DS of the crossmember and was overthinking (maybe underthinking, I don't know
) it since it got farther away from the crossmember with the washers. You can also see how many washers I already have between the engine block and mounts as well.
I smeared some JB weld on it to kind of patch it, I couldn't feel or see where it had gone through but it had lost a lot of material in the meantime.
I wish there was more clearance since I think it can still contact, kinda at a loss for what to do. If I go much higher I am going to run into issues with the exhaust and floorpan/firewall.
I just got started going back together, I had the carb off to use the tractor/hoist which didn't work (ended up using a bottleneck jack on tabs on the bellhousing, I got more engine roll and had more control since I was right there) Anyway I got the carb back on and fully hooked up. The PS exhaust is hooked back up as well. I even had a helper for that:
I still have the washer on the DS mount, DS header, front driveshaft and PS inner fender to reinstall before I am done with this endeavor... so then I can reseal the back window in my dd.
I wish I had used the V6 mounts and plates from the start, then I would have had more control in situating the engine side to side. If this doesn't work that is the only real "fix" I can come up with. Even then I run the risk of the exhaust not lining up even worse than it did before I did all this.
(engine is jacked up)
Anyway I knocked it in the head a few weeks ago to try to correct this. Been getting a lot of rain so it has been hit and miss being able to work on it outside.
When I did the head swap in '12 I tried to resituate the engine then by pulling it up and giving the engine mount nuts everything I could and get them tight. It still slid back down the slots.
So this time I shaped a piece of washer to fill in the slot and raise the engine on the PS side, it is a bugger to get to. You have to reach between the axleshaft and the axlebeam which is tight.
I did the same for the DS, I have a thin washer to put on but haven't yet to hold things in place. It is hard because I am about out of threads and it is on a curve. Much easier to get at than the PS though.
I also added washers (the domed one and two flat washers from the RA of my D28 demo) to bring that side of the engine up to match the block I have under the other side. At the time I was trying to roll the engine away from the DS of the crossmember and was overthinking (maybe underthinking, I don't know
I smeared some JB weld on it to kind of patch it, I couldn't feel or see where it had gone through but it had lost a lot of material in the meantime.
I wish there was more clearance since I think it can still contact, kinda at a loss for what to do. If I go much higher I am going to run into issues with the exhaust and floorpan/firewall.
I just got started going back together, I had the carb off to use the tractor/hoist which didn't work (ended up using a bottleneck jack on tabs on the bellhousing, I got more engine roll and had more control since I was right there) Anyway I got the carb back on and fully hooked up. The PS exhaust is hooked back up as well. I even had a helper for that:
I still have the washer on the DS mount, DS header, front driveshaft and PS inner fender to reinstall before I am done with this endeavor... so then I can reseal the back window in my dd.
I wish I had used the V6 mounts and plates from the start, then I would have had more control in situating the engine side to side. If this doesn't work that is the only real "fix" I can come up with. Even then I run the risk of the exhaust not lining up even worse than it did before I did all this.
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