85 2.3 water in the oil

[coleboy11]

Well that's the thing, I know it was full last night when I got done working on it. I also am quite sure it wasn't leaking. I just suspect that the water froze solid and wouldn't circulate properly, likely blowing a hose or something. I kind of figured if there was ice in it that it would thaw rather quickly, but what do I know?

 

[LIMA BEAN]

Yes please forgive me Almighty Online Grandmaster Lima Wizard for taking your time which would be better spent taking basic grammar lessons. There is no apostrophe needed in a word like basic's because its used to denote possession. And I guess you failed to read the part where I said I was broke as hell which means I can't rightly make antifreeze manifest by sheer will. Thanks for the wise-ass comment, sure needed that as an extra kick-start to my already wonderful day. What a pal.

Yer, um you're, your, you are welcome spayelling nazi. Broke or not a good swift kick in the ass get's the juice flowing pal. If I was hard on you it's because I believe you should think your conondrum out and you will, have a nice day.

 

[RonD]

You should lighten up a bit LIMA BEAN, kicking a man when he is down is not a good thing, and he will kick back quite often.
coleboy11 felt bad enough about the overheating so adding an "I told you so" was just rude.

*************

Could be ice formed in a hose, blocking flow, have to be well below freezing for that, lower rad maybe.
But steam coming out the way you described leans more towards a break in the system.

For future reference a quick antifreeze for TEMPORARY USE, is salt, it is cheap and available almost anywhere.
Salted water has a lower freezing point, you don't need much.
But salt is also a corrosive, so only use it for a few weeks, and flush system a few times with fresh water before refilling with anti-freeze.

Some people are a bit anal about antifreeze, and they have their valid opinion about how a cooling system should be treated, salt would be a no-no for them, lol, fresh tap water would also be a no-no, so you can't win with some people, I think they secretly want to own a BMW.

Pepper is also good to temporarily stop small leaks, it can get you through until proper fix of the leak.

A "seasoned" engine is better than walking.

 

[LIMA BEAN]

You should lighten up a bit LIMA BEAN, kicking a man when he is down is not a good thing, and he will kick back quite often.
coleboy11 felt bad enough about the overheating so adding an "I told you so" was just rude.

*************

Could be ice formed in a hose, blocking flow, have to be well below freezing for that, lower rad maybe.
But steam coming out the way you described leans more towards a break in the system.

For future reference a quick antifreeze for TEMPORARY USE, is salt, it is cheap and available almost anywhere.
Salted water has a lower freezing point, you don't need much.
But salt is also a corrosive, so only use it for a few weeks, and flush system a few times with fresh water before refilling with anti-freeze.

Some people are a bit anal about antifreeze, and they have their valid opinion about how a cooling system should be treated, salt would be a no-no for them, lol, fresh tap water would also be a no-no, so you can't win with some people, I think they secretly want to own a BMW.

Pepper is also good to temporarily stop small leaks, it can get you through until proper fix of the leak.

A "seasoned" engine is better than walking.

Screw you Ron, lighten up my ayass. Pour ufckin salt and pepper in your cooling system REALLY! He will get it figured out if I have to spayell wrong for the next dam month.

 

[coleboy11]

I should be able to check it out a little later and we'll see whats up with it from there.

As for you Lima, you should probably stop wasting your time and put your foot in your mouth instead of somebody's backside.

 

[RonD]

Hopefully it is just a hose that came off, but don't leave it to long because if only a little water is left in the system it can freeze faster and do some damage.
You can start the engine without water in it, let it run for a minute or two then shut it off, that should heat things up enough to melt any ice that has formed.

 

[coleboy11]

Sounds like a plan, thanks for the insight.

 

[LIMA BEAN]

I should be able to check it out a little later and we'll see whats up with it from there.

As for you Lima, you should probably stop wasting your time and put your foot in your mouth instead of somebody's backside.

I will take your advice to heart heh heh, doubt any of my combat boots would fit in my mouth or up my ayass unless I got the VC special. Knock it off I will still help if I can... Peace man.

 

[RonD]

Sounds like a plan, thanks for the insight.

If fan belt squeals when first started shut it down, water pump is frozen, pour some warm water(brings some warm water with you) on it, let it sit for a few minutes then try to start again.

 

[coleboy11]

Okay Ron, I drove the truck back without issue after refilling the rad with water. Upon investigation I found no leaks, but the lower radiator hose is not getting warm, neither are the heater hoses. The thermostat is fairly new, as is the heater core. I also changed the radiator just now with a spare I had in case it was clogged. Still the same results. No heat inside cabin and lower rad hose is cold. I'm thinking thermostat or water pump although the the water pump is not oozing from the weep hole.

 

[LIMA BEAN]

Okay Ron, I drove the truck back without issue after refilling the rad with water. Upon investigation I found no leaks, but the lower radiator hose is not getting warm, neither are the heater hoses. The thermostat is fairly new, as is the heater core. I also changed the radiator just now with a spare I had in case it was clogged. Still the same results. No heat inside cabin and lower rad hose is cold. I'm thinking thermostat or water pump although the the water pump is not oozing from the weep hole.

I would go for T-stat and make sure the the jiggly is orientated to burp air. Most likely will be stamped with RAD and/or an arrow towards radiator, pretty much in your case up.

 

[RonD]

I would agree with LIMA BEAN, the 2.3l runs cold anyway and the over heating could have made the t-stat stick open.

Not sure how your heater core is setup, valve, diverter or by-pass door, but I would set heat to Full inside then remove one of the heater hose at the firewall and refill system making sure water comes out the core and hose.
You can even use the disconnected heater hose to fill system.

The t-stat is there to set the Lowest operating temp of the engine, which should be around 200deg, most Fords use a 195deg t-stat.
The heater and block/head system are separated from the rad by the t-stat.
The t-stat should only open when extra cooling is needed, so rad cooling is only added, after engine water temp reaches 200deg.

t-stat can be on the upper or lower rad hose doesn't matter, and that hose should stay cool until t-stat opens.

But heater should heat up with engine for sure.

 

[coleboy11]

So here's what I've learned so far: The heater core is in good working condition, water passes freely through it. I checked radiator and hoses for clogs, all good there. I removed thermostat and put it in a stove. It works as it should, re-inserted with temporary homemade gasket.

The heater still is not producing heat unless the engine is revved up. The truck seems to be smoking more than usual but idles pretty normally, although it did die once while revving it, most likely due to the amount of water on the engine. The thermostat is connected to the upper radiator hose which does warm up, its the bottom radiator hose that is not getting warm. There seems to be no circulation of water happening. I have never had experiences with a water pump, but I am assuming it is pumped by the belt and its not leaking...
SMells like the engine is burning up a little bit, no temp. gauge and the bulb is out apparently....I'm in a heap of trouble.

 

[coleboy11]

I have removed the water pump now. It smells hot and oil came out of the top bolt hole when I took the bolt out. The water pump seems okay, it turns like I think it should, although I am not sure. But if it is fine.....then the possibility of this thread starting back to the very first original issue of water in the oil becomes all the more important as the dreaded head gasket comes back and rears its ugly head.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Are you sure your getting all the air out of it? Sometimes its a royal PITA...

It may have to burp a few times.
With the heater on, hold it at 1500-2000rpm, and every time the water goes down immediately fill it.
If the level won't stay steady, shut it off wait a minute and repeat.

My 2.5 acted like that if it wasn't full bled.

Also the previous post about steam not escaping anywhere but a leak is false.
Steam is capable of very high pressures, which can push right past the cap, it will come out around the cap and from the reservoir.

Also, I know its been said 100x, but you need coolant in there. It not only keeps it from freezing, but boiling too. Sure the thermostat regulates @ 195*, but water boils at 212*(iirc), how hot do you think the inside of the water jackets are right next to your cylinders... Water instantly boils, creates steam, which puts a ton of air in the system, thus all the coolant gets blown out, and the heater core gets filled with air, then the engine overheats.

Your digging your own grave here, and will blow your own head gasket, if you haven't already.

Almost every radiator has a drain on the bottom... Just find somebody who has done you wrong... It'll save you $15.



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