83 4x4 302 swap, keep the TK4

[bigpanda]

Swapping a 302 in my 83' Ranger 4x4, I'm wondering if I can use my original TK4 that is in there now with the Advanced Adapters kit and the different bell housing. I'm not going to racing or slamming gears in the truck, it's going to be mainly used for the beach and that's it.

 

[baddad457]

Use a V8 transmission from the get go. You WILL sooner or later destroy the V6 transmission, no matter how you treat it.

 

[bigpanda]

what's my best option to remain a manual and be compatible with my transfer case then?

 

[projectnitemare]

You'll kill that little guy in short order. There isn't a manual out there that will bolt to the original t-case without adapters. Your best, easiest and cheapest option will probably be this: Use a M5ODR2 5 speed from and F150. It fits well, 5 speed, and will plug into your stock clutch hydraulics. Drill out the crossmember rivits and move it to hold the transmission. Get a NP 205 or 208 whichever you can find in the yards, they are pretty much the smallest fullsize Ford t-cases. The 208 is a little bigger you need to shave some tabs and such from it for a good fit. From there you need 2 driveshafts...you might get lucky and find 1 or 2 that will work in the junkyard...if not you need driveshafts modified or new made. Even if you need shafts made they are as much or cheaper than the t-case adapter. It may seem like a lot of BS but by the time you adapter that stocker, hit the clutch hard once and grenade it you would already be ahead with this type of set up.

Matt

 

[bigpanda]

Well I found a t-18 in great shape locally, trying to use that with the adapter to my stock case. The t-18 seems like a work horse, and he only wants 200$ for it. It seems like a no brainer to me to get that and use tha AA adapter.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Personally, if I had to do over again I would go with a transmission with overdrive... so then I wouldn't have to do it over again.

 

[projectnitemare]

If you can deal without overdrive the T-18 is a good strong unit. You'll have to make up a new clutch line to work the fork but nothing that hasn't been covered by most here before. I wouldn't waste the money on that adapter though. Your driveshafts still aren't guranteed to fit even with the adapter.

Matt

 

[bigpanda]

Right, if I have to lengthen or shorten shafts that's whatever. I can get the t-case from behind the t-18 for another 200$ so 400$ for the trans and t-case but then how so I make my driveshafts work without going full custom.

If I just get the adapter I can use the stock case and shorten/lengthen my shafts.

Also I don't need overdrive this isn't a daily driver it's just a weekend toy.

 

[projectnitemare]

Do whatever you are comfortable with to be honest. I think it is silly to spend hundreds on an adapter and still have a good chance ending up at the driveline shop getting shafts shortened and lengthened. That route you at least have everything you should need. Going with a fullsize t-case you don't really have much more driveline work than getting shafts modified. The only difference is you will need the correct u-joint and yoke to mate to the t-case. The front driveshaft is where you will need more parts. The factory t-case should have the slip yoke at the case and not in the driveshaft. My advice there would be get a shaft from the junkyard. A lot of times you can find a front shaft that will fit at the bone yard with no modification at all. It all depends on how much you want to look around for stuff and save a few bucks because it's all about the same amount of work.

Matt

 

[bigpanda]

Do whatever you are comfortable with to be honest. I think it is silly to spend hundreds on an adapter and still have a good chance ending up at the driveline shop getting shafts shortened and lengthened. That route you at least have everything you should need. Going with a fullsize t-case you don't really have much more driveline work than getting shafts modified. The only difference is you will need the correct u-joint and yoke to mate to the t-case. The front driveshaft is where you will need more parts. The factory t-case should have the slip yoke at the case and not in the driveshaft. My advice there would be get a shaft from the junkyard. A lot of times you can find a front shaft that will fit at the bone yard with no modification at all. It all depends on how much you want to look around for stuff and save a few bucks because it's all about the same amount of work.

Matt

So get the trans and t-case, save $250 over the adapter and use that money to modify, or find shafts? That sounds like a better idea. I'm not sure what you mean by being able to find a shaft from the boneyard to go from the t-case to the front axle, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.

Nitemare I really appreciate the help, it may seem like I sound hard headed, but I just have a lot of things floating through my mind with this truck. I have so many options and parts at my disposal. It's my 5th Ranger and I need to get this 1st swap under my belt.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It was $50 to have my front shaft shortened, $180 to have the rear lengthened... lesson of the day is to get shafts that are too long and have them shortened.

 

[projectnitemare]

Not hard headed at all. I just try to understand some don't have all the tools in the world at their disposal or like to spend 20 weekend a year roaming junkyards. But yes money wise it is a smarter investment to skip the adapter and change trans and t-case. You will break even or save over using an adapter. For the front driveshaft there is a good chance you won't be able to use your stock one at all. Measure what you need and there is a good chance you will find one in the junkyard that will fit the bill. But as said previously if you can find a shaft that fits get a longer one and have it shortened, that will cost less. To get one legnthened it requires a new tube. Glad i could help.

Matt

 

[bigpanda]

Thanks. Now that I have drive train figured out I need to make a new thread on what type of ignition I'm gonna use on my engine.

 

[projectnitemare]

The duraspark ignition is pretty straight forward, not too bad to figure out. In all reality the best and easiest to wire up will be an MSD or similar ignition. Summit and JEGS have their own brand if you want to save a few bucks. If you are looking for stuff to pull from other vehicles the duraspark is nice because there are no points and it's fairly simple.

Matt

 

[bigpanda]

Yeah I'm really looking at Summit's HEI one wire with mechanical advance. Seems almost too easy, put it on hook up a hot when in run and on and that's it. Not a fan of the duraspark stuff. Besides I'll be ripping everything out of the ranger engine bay anyway.