6.8L engine swap


Motor is held up by mounts now. They still need to be braced and boxed, but I wanted to see how much the coils drooped. The bolts are obvious fitment bolts not the final product. Couple of the welds could have been better on the second pass, but I couldn't get them to come out clean.

6.8L engine swap
6.8L engine swap
6.8L engine swap
6.8L engine swap
6.8L engine swap
 
mmmm.

i would build a cradle and run it low as possible. not sure i would trust the rail span on these un cradled.
 
I haven't run a cradle with the 4.0 sohc since the sas think the 6.8 will be that much different?
 
Looks like you might need to lower it a bit more for trans fitment/clearance. And yes, the 6.8 has almost as much torque as a powerstroke, I'd definitely cradle/brace it. Great progress!

SVT
 
Looks like you might need to lower it a bit more for trans fitment/clearance. And yes, the 6.8 has almost as much torque as a powerstroke, I'd definitely cradle/brace it. Great progress!

SVT

To much risk of oil pan to tracbar clearance issues lowering the engine, cab will be cut to clear the trans and the floor will be cut to flat belly the tcases.

I have a superduty scrap truck I can steal an oe cradle to mod from so will get to work on that. Thanks for the heads up the feedback is good.
 
You could do triangulated 4 link to delete the tracbar. Thats my limit on my rig, the tracbar. What year is your SD?

SVT
 
Its an 02 and I am fine with the 3 link it maxes the shocks and droops past the coil length so anything else is superficial droop.
 
I'm looking for 05+ RA frame mounts...

SVT
 
6.8L engine swap


finished up the engine side mounts and frame side. I think they seem strong enough, whats everyone else think?

6.8L engine swap


6.8L engine swap


motor is a bit taller than the hood I haven't decided what I want to do with that yet.

6.8L engine swap


6.8L engine swap


rad clearance and power steering/trans cooler. should be able to run push/pull with slim lines.
 
Damn you're gonna have to cut the hell out of a hood to get that baby to clear. You could put on a 3" body lift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It's plenty tall as it is, no bodylift for me. We will see what it takes factory is a 2" cowl a 4" should in theory clear.
 
mmmmm..

nnnnnaaaaa.


2 in bl, over rail steering box and drop the engine 2-3 more inches, cog will be on much better.

hey, its your cake, but i drive an even nose heavier x cab and its puts this idea of a 10 cyl further down.

but ya have to start somewhere, and maybe it will be perfect.
 
Truck sits pretty low now I don't think cog will be an issue, but we will see. I don't really want to bother seapping the steering to drop it 2" when it would just put the oil pan into the pumpkin flexed out.
 
How's it coming with this swap?

I'd go with the body lift. I've had a hoodscoop before, and it sucks trying to look over it on the trail.
 

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