I Am Getting Ready To Swap My 89 2.9 For A 90-92 4.0. What Manufactures Sell Performance Parts For This Engine. Headers,cams.heads And Intakes Thank You
40 Performance Parts
- Thread starter BLUTHUNDER1
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Uhhh... they do NOTHING for the 4.0OHV engine.
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Really, I think you need to check again, they started doing 4.0L OHV about 8 months to a year ago.
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no AK allan is right, supersix only caters to the SOHC crowd, he has an OHV....big difference.
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Don't believe me click the link, right at the top of page.
4.0L OHV v-6 ranger.
I am not in the habit of posting unless i'm sure.
And since I have owned both, I do know the difference.
Granted all they really offer is short blocks, pistons and heads, it is a good foundation to start a good build.
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4.0 Performance Mods.
OK - now that we have that straight - could we get back to the original question. Who has history or experience with 4.0 performance? I've got my late 4.0 with the big dished pistons torn down to rebuild. It seems sort of irreligious to not put it back together with at least some minor modifications. All those years of reading Hot Rod have made their impression.
My 3.0 Taurus has 205hp and drives really well. I'd like to get the 4.0 in that range without having to use premium fuel. (Please don't discuss cold air boxes with me - I own a magnahelic, if you don't know what that means you really don't want to discuss cold air boxes with me) I'd really like to hear experiences not opinions.
Cams? Larger valves? MAF? Throttle bodies? On the later two are there OEM parts that will interchange or is this entirely aftermarket. I like cast iron headers for the street - quieter - is there really a lot of gain with headers if you don't remove the converters? Does anyone in the Ranger crowd have experience with underdrives?
I've got a lot of time - I put another motor in my Ranger so I could drive it. This engine is a winter project.
OK - now that we have that straight - could we get back to the original question. Who has history or experience with 4.0 performance? I've got my late 4.0 with the big dished pistons torn down to rebuild. It seems sort of irreligious to not put it back together with at least some minor modifications. All those years of reading Hot Rod have made their impression.
My 3.0 Taurus has 205hp and drives really well. I'd like to get the 4.0 in that range without having to use premium fuel. (Please don't discuss cold air boxes with me - I own a magnahelic, if you don't know what that means you really don't want to discuss cold air boxes with me) I'd really like to hear experiences not opinions.
Cams? Larger valves? MAF? Throttle bodies? On the later two are there OEM parts that will interchange or is this entirely aftermarket. I like cast iron headers for the street - quieter - is there really a lot of gain with headers if you don't remove the converters? Does anyone in the Ranger crowd have experience with underdrives?
I've got a lot of time - I put another motor in my Ranger so I could drive it. This engine is a winter project.
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Ouch, $1100 for a head that's probably going to decrease low end torque on a stock engine, no thanks. It also worries me that they see all those coolant passages in the head as a bad thing....
What kind of power upgrades are you going for here? More top end? What kind of durability are you going for? Are you thinking forced induction? It's really going to depend on how you use the truck. If it's a daily driver and all your looking for is a little more power, a cam and head swap might do the job, but you might sacrifice longevity. I understand where you're coming from, but I've never really been a fan of just adding a "little" power. I usually leave my daily drivers bone stock in terms of powertrain simply for reliability reasons. Otherwise, you might as well go all out. Just my .02.
And for all you still wondering what a magnehelic is, it's a brand of delta P gauge. And there's no reason to get into the ever popular cold air intake "discussion" here. Tempting as it may be
What kind of power upgrades are you going for here? More top end? What kind of durability are you going for? Are you thinking forced induction? It's really going to depend on how you use the truck. If it's a daily driver and all your looking for is a little more power, a cam and head swap might do the job, but you might sacrifice longevity. I understand where you're coming from, but I've never really been a fan of just adding a "little" power. I usually leave my daily drivers bone stock in terms of powertrain simply for reliability reasons. Otherwise, you might as well go all out. Just my .02.
And for all you still wondering what a magnehelic is, it's a brand of delta P gauge. And there's no reason to get into the ever popular cold air intake "discussion" here. Tempting as it may be
4.0 Performance
OK. So what have you done that works? I'd up to adding a turbo although the TRS site is short on info on the process - the 4.0 rebuild is full of great information - but - there is no discussion of what worked based on an actual rebuild. (There is a great thread going about putting 4.6 -with pictures- in a Ranger.) The 4.0 is a remarkable durable engine - I just took the heads off of my 240+K engine and find there is hardly any wear on the cylinders. The cam bearings are into the copper but the cam is reasonably unworn. I used to build 2.0 race engines that got close to 300 hp. Seems like a 4.0 could be bumped to a little over 200 pretty easy.
The big difference from a race engine and the street 4.0 is keeping the electronics in place, smog attachments and the computer controls etc. So . . .anyone have practical experience?
In the 80's I spent several weeks designing cold air boxes, hose configurations, etc. (and I'm so pleased at least one person claims to know what a magnahelic does) using that guage for a racing program. The guage measures air pressure in water column inches of pressure. We started off trying to maximize the pressure over the face of the intake at speed (70-140mph) by designing a box that would accept the maximum possible pressure inside before the air started bouncing off of the air stacking up in front of the opening. We even tried a cable system to bleed some air off the back with basically poor results. At issue was the fact we were trying to get the max amount of air into a box that was sucking air into a turbo through a single 40mm restriction plate. The answer by the way was that nothing worked better or more practically than cowl induction.
OK. So what have you done that works? I'd up to adding a turbo although the TRS site is short on info on the process - the 4.0 rebuild is full of great information - but - there is no discussion of what worked based on an actual rebuild. (There is a great thread going about putting 4.6 -with pictures- in a Ranger.) The 4.0 is a remarkable durable engine - I just took the heads off of my 240+K engine and find there is hardly any wear on the cylinders. The cam bearings are into the copper but the cam is reasonably unworn. I used to build 2.0 race engines that got close to 300 hp. Seems like a 4.0 could be bumped to a little over 200 pretty easy.
The big difference from a race engine and the street 4.0 is keeping the electronics in place, smog attachments and the computer controls etc. So . . .anyone have practical experience?
In the 80's I spent several weeks designing cold air boxes, hose configurations, etc. (and I'm so pleased at least one person claims to know what a magnahelic does) using that guage for a racing program. The guage measures air pressure in water column inches of pressure. We started off trying to maximize the pressure over the face of the intake at speed (70-140mph) by designing a box that would accept the maximum possible pressure inside before the air started bouncing off of the air stacking up in front of the opening. We even tried a cable system to bleed some air off the back with basically poor results. At issue was the fact we were trying to get the max amount of air into a box that was sucking air into a turbo through a single 40mm restriction plate. The answer by the way was that nothing worked better or more practically than cowl induction.
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It is my long considered opinion that major engine mods rarely pay off because you must do EVERYTHING for it all to work together.
Gears ALWAYS deliver improved performance....
Headers Usually improve things.
The only "non stock" thing about my 4.0 engine is the Borla
headers (which, sadly, are discontinued)
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Gears ALWAYS deliver improved performance....
Headers Usually improve things.
The only "non stock" thing about my 4.0 engine is the Borla
headers (which, sadly, are discontinued)
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Borla Headers
Oh sure - offer some hope then take it away.
The deal is, I've got this 4.0 apart and I can do a complete rebuild and upgrade, massage, modify or re-invent whatever. I've just been looking for someone who has made significant mods to a 4.0 - that's actually done it and can report the result. There is precious little about this engine that someone could not take a a 30 year old copy of "How to Hotrod your Chevy V-8" and create some improvements. Maybe that's what I'll do and send pictures to the Tech page.
OR . . .
I'd like to hear from someone who has who has turboed the 4.0 - it seems like those deep dish pistons and big squish area would work good with a few pounds of boost. The engine I took apart has so little wear after 200+ miles I can't help but believe their is sufficient strength for 5-7 pounds on a daily driver. The big issue for me is I want to keep the 5spd Auto trans
Oh sure - offer some hope then take it away.
The deal is, I've got this 4.0 apart and I can do a complete rebuild and upgrade, massage, modify or re-invent whatever. I've just been looking for someone who has made significant mods to a 4.0 - that's actually done it and can report the result. There is precious little about this engine that someone could not take a a 30 year old copy of "How to Hotrod your Chevy V-8" and create some improvements. Maybe that's what I'll do and send pictures to the Tech page.
OR . . .
I'd like to hear from someone who has who has turboed the 4.0 - it seems like those deep dish pistons and big squish area would work good with a few pounds of boost. The engine I took apart has so little wear after 200+ miles I can't help but believe their is sufficient strength for 5-7 pounds on a daily driver. The big issue for me is I want to keep the 5spd Auto trans
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