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4.0 Transmission Removal


shakes head.....:dunno:


yes, i can get a manual trans out from a 4.0 with the y pipe on the exaust manifolds, and so can anyone else.

the rotted to no recognition bolts on the collector to cat can be ground/torched off easy enough by most....new gasket and bolts on reassembly.


this allows the whole engine to tilt down...you can jack the engine up first and pull the mounts if you have a collapsed body mount situation or jack the body up a bit....i have done variations of this depending on the situation...


anyway, usually i tilt the engine back being careful not to jank anything up, and support it as low as it will go.

this allows removal of the trans with the y pipe connected to the exaust maniflolds....i have done dozens over the years.

otherwise if the manifolds are really rotted i do just smash them off the heads and put all new on...like 70 a side. you seem to be happy with them so i dont think they are cracked and leaking yet.


i am not a great communicator so maybe none of that makes sense, but i have been putting transmissions in rangers long before the 4.0 was even an option.

YOU DONT HAVE TO DROP THE Y FROM THE MANIFOLD TO PULL THE TRANS.





YOU MAY have to pull the fan shroud or fan off to tip it down far enough to clear the exaust and floor tunnel, mod the lip on the tunnel seam, and the next clutch will be even easier.

there is a reason i love 2 in body lifts. they dont hurt anything, and make the truck much more servicable, especially on the side of the road.
 
i wish you were close enough to help....


i take for granted my experience sometimes so please do not think i am some arrogant douchebag fawhead.

i get frustrated that most cant see simple solutions to what appear to be huge problems.


worst case a hacksaw behind the cat allows a simple slip fit coupler to reassemble and a few clamps if you cant remove the bolts....you still can tilt the engine then...and fix the exaust. no problem....cake deal, quit fawking around your wasting time...:thefinger:

worst case.... bust off the bolts at the exaust manifold...big fawking deal... and theres a myriad of ways to fix that too. from c clamps to hold it back up (sure thhats ghetto but it works) ....to quick clamps(handcuff clamps) to bolt it back together.



if it takes more then a day to do this.....it better be because your buddies stopped in and took you fishing, and you passed out from all the free beer.
 
i wish you were close enough to help....


i take for granted my experience sometimes so please do not think i am some arrogant douchebag fawhead.

i get frustrated that most cant see simple solutions to what appear to be huge problems.


worst case a hacksaw behind the cat allows a simple slip fit coupler to reassemble and a few clamps if you cant remove the bolts....you still can tilt the engine then...and fix the exaust. no problem....cake deal, quit fawking around your wasting time...:thefinger:

worst case.... bust off the bolts at the exaust manifold...big fawking deal... and theres a myriad of ways to fix that too. from c clamps to hold it back up (sure thhats ghetto but it works) ....to quick clamps(handcuff clamps) to bolt it back together.

a bi

if it takes more then a day to do this.....it better be because your buddies stopped in and took you fishing, and you passed out from all the free beer.
So what I gather form your post is support engine, cut exhaust off after cats, then unbolt the motor mounts to let the engine tilt back and probably remove fan shroud, that sound much better than snapping off the bolts on the y pipes. I dont want to pay an exhaust shop, and I have no problem rigging an exhaust as long as it doesnt piss off the 02 sensors.

i have hesitated a bit with this job because I dont want to end up putting this truck in a shop. For the sake of my wallet, time, and mechanical confidence. I did the clutch on my 03 eclipse, a Honda 400ex and a yamaha Yfz450 and it all seemed like cake compared to this rusty POS.:bawling:
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i usually dont have to undo the motor mounts....4.0 have the dampner i pop loose though...

but i am also under the assumption your smart enough to watch that your not pulling things apart or smashing anything.....

also....
i do on the tighter ones, undo the exaust at the converter to make it easier as the engine can slack down, but thats for convenience. usually splitting the radius arm bracket helps too in those cases.


sometimes i pull the ra brackets right off.






whatever needs to happen.....
 
Basically the less bolts I break the easier it will be to put it back together is my philosophy when I work on something rusty like this truck. I wouldnt have bought this truck If I hadnt been in the case that my last truck was totaled from being t-boned and wanting to find my original dreams of a full option ttb 4x4 manual ranger... For some reason im a sucker for the the ttb front end....The only option I couldnt find was this truck with with a manual transferr case.
 
:icon_rofl:



well....what can ya do....??

my words are only meant to help others deal with it.:D
 
i usually dont have to undo the motor mounts....4.0 have the dampner i pop loose though...

but i am also under the assumption your smart enough to watch that your not pulling things apart or smashing anything.....

also....



sometimes i pull the ra brackets right off.






whatever needs to happen.....
I havent looked at the way the way the radius arm cross member is attached to the frame since I have started this project. It may be bolts or rivets.... either way I will grind or cut the ****ers off to make getting the trans out easier. I can tell just unbolting motor mounts wont make much more clearance over the exhaust. If its attached to the frame and easy to reach the torch or cut off wheel it is...
 
try slacking the engine down first to see where it goes.


usually all that is needed.
 
Motor mounts un touched I can tell the engine with exhaust is tilted as far as it will go.I just need a buddy to help me lower the t case and trans as well for the intall.
 
Sorry to hijack this but I have a quick question. Where does the transfer case separate from the trans? I'm in the middle of doing this and I'm not sure where to separate the transfer case. Is it the bolts right above the y pipe or someplace else?
 
I googled this thread in hopes for help in the possible removal of the tranny with the y-pipes still installed. Trying to remove them would have been more work than the entire clutch replacement altogether. This thread gave me hope that it could be done but I still could not manage to get it out. Days passed as rain slowed progress. I tried again in my last attempt and saw that if I completely flipped the tranny upside down that it may clear the body. It did and the job is now finished and running great.
 
Last edited:
Some people have had good luck removing their transmission by INSTEAD OF FIGHTING WITH THE Y-PIPE by REMOVING the three passenger side Cab mount bolts and listening the three drivers side bots and jacking up the cab...


Personally on my truck I did a 1" body lift to facilitate certain repair operations, but the 1" wasn't enough to really make it easy to get the trans out, but the fact that I have Headers
and use stainless steel bolts with brass nuts to hold the y-pipe to the collectors makes the job relatively painless...
 

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