302 Oil pans

[Teddyzee]

Oil pans, one year of many that you'll want is the '79' Muatang one that has the dip stick in the pan, many auto stores have them and the pick-up and dipstick.

There's your winner.

The dipstick in the timing cover can't really be used, as the rear sump of the pan is where most of the oil will be.

All Ford cars from '79 onward had the dual sump pan. We are obv talking about ones with SBF engines.

 

[Robert_1967]

Should I also get the timing cover when I pull the pan off a duel sump motor???
or can I just put a bolt in the hole so oil won't come out?



Robert



posted using a gallon jug, and some 20w60 gear lube.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Should I also get the timing cover when I pull the pan off a duel sump motor???
or can I just put a bolt in the hole so oil won't come out?



Robert

Either/or. Watch them for different water pump rotations, some dual sump pans will screw you up with the water pump unless you change it... and then it snowballs to include the FEAD and possibly the harmonic balancer as well. The water ports are clocked differently so watch that, you might take the old one with you just to make sure it is identical aside from the hole.

Or you could clean it really good and put a glop of JB Weld in the hole...

My 1987 standard car 302 had a nice cover for such a swap, it had a bump for the front dipstick but it was plugged, as was the fuel pump hole (which was still there) It had the dual sump pan too, thinking it was out of something like a Crown Victoria.

 

[Robert_1967]

ok, I now have the oil pan, but no where to mount the dipstick, my engine doesn't have the cut out in the side of the block for me to drill out.

I'm thinking of having the oil pan drilled in the side and a dipstick tube welded in the side of it !?!


also can anyone give me a good reason why I can solid mount my engine mounts, and not have rubber mounts???, I know most race cars have the engine solid mounted to the frame.



Robert



posted with a rooted birch tree and pine cone.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

ok, I know have the oil pan, but no where to mount the dipstick, my engine doesn't have the cut out in the side of the block for me to drill out.

I'm thinking of having the oil pan drilled in the side and a dipstick tube welded in the side of it !?!

1979 Mustang has the dual sump pan with the dipstick already in it, they run a tad under $100.

also can anyone give me a good reason why I can solid mount my engine mounts, and not have rubber mounts???, I know most race cars have the engine solid mounted to the frame.

Vibration and less forgiveness in mounting.

 

[Robert_1967]

yea, but I got this one for free, and a dip stick will only cost me 14.99 plus tax.





Robert



posted with a can of burnt motor oil and a gas soaked filter.

 

[dangerranger83]

Of you solid mount the engine, sold mount the trans too or you could end up with a cracked bellhousing.

I would rubber mount of you are able to.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Robert_1967]

yea, I'm going to redo them at the first of the month, I'll get two of the ranger v6 mounts and make a couple of plates.

one thing about it, with all the front sheet metal removed, it sure makes getting in and around the engine and frame much easier.

Robert



posted with a rooted plastic bumper and a can of juice.

 

[bobbywalter]

yea, I'm going to redo them at the first of the month, I'll get two of the ranger v6 mounts and make a couple of plates.

one thing about it, with all the front sheet metal removed, it sure makes getting in and around the engine and frame much easier.

Robert



posted with a rooted plastic bumper and a can of juice.

yeah that is non negotiable with me the last 10-12 or so years. clip gets cut and made removable if its a non removable setup normally or you can fawk off and have someone else do it....and often i am working for parts trade or low amount of money to free so things generally come apart.

only way to go.

usually i spend a day and disassemble a rig and powerwash it all up and and do prefits and measurements then put it back together...then a month or so later when its swap time shit goes pretty good.

of course the last 7 things i worked on were all jeeps, and one dodge and 2 gm,s. thought i had some ranger jobs to do but the kids keep flaking out on us

think things through a bit, its tough at first but solutions present themself with common swaps like these.

 

[dangerranger83]

My idea of removing the front setup involved starring at it for a minute, then spending another 30 seconds cutting it out.

Still have it on the bed of my truck.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Robert_1967]

Here is what I'm working with at the time being.



Except that there is a set of motor mounts welded on the frame.

Robert




posted with my silver surfer board, and a ***

 

[bobbywalter]

i originally did it that way, but just cut at those horns now. no reason to fawk with the cab....time and effort is a net loss and more ways for rot to set in.


unless your using a spotweld cutter bask there which i do as well depending on situation and tools available.

no weld installs are easy to pull off on lifted 4x4,s but not as easy with 2wd.

 

[Robert_1967]

I'm going to drill them so I can just bolt the side back on, and yes I used a spot weld cutter, it's from HF, and did a better job then I thought it would.

When I welded the motor mounts on, I was using what I had at the time, and plus it let me see how the engine is going to set in the truck, right now I have to wait till the 3rd of the month to get the v6 mounts, even though they are just 14.99 each, and my 1/4 plate is free, I just have a really tight budget that I can spend on the truck each month.


Robert



posted with my right finger, and left thumb.