300 Inline 6 Drift Truck - Pic Heavy

[ryan]

Its 3 inches higher than the front of the engine, and I'll be using an additional inline coolant fill point at the front of the engine on the hotside to get the air out of the lines

Nice, I had problems with mine in my buggy because the coolant lines were part of the chassis so I had some air bubbles that got stuck in low points. Packaging it is a lot easier but I found the rear radiator to be a pain for my application

 

[sgtsandman]

Supposedly, pulling a vacuum and filling the system, using the vacuum draws all the air bubbles out.

It didn't seem to work on the girlfriend's 2014 Escape, but it also wasn't holding steady on the vacuum. I'm pretty sure it still has a leak somewhere I didn't see one. I still had to burp the system.

 

[bba952]

rear mount radiators do make things abit more complicated but it does look cool! and im trying to get a 50/50 weight balance when finished.

as long as the motor doesnt overheat im not going to worry about getting every last air bubble out of the system

 

[bba952]

Spent some time today thinking about the cooling system and decided to use an inline electric water pump and to use a coolant temp switch instead of a thermostat. in order to do this i needed to make a new "non thermostat housing" and a block off plate for the mechanical water pump location. (no one makes these that i know of). used some 1/4" steel plate and some 1" water pipe form home depot. still got to finish up the one for the water pump.

 

[bba952]

finished the water pump delete plate.

 

[bba952]

Fabed up a alternator bracket since the only ones available on ebay are giant and have the smog pump mounting tabs sicking out the top. the alternator originally used a bolt that was around 3 in long and didn't have any room for adjustment and wanted to have the ability to use different alternators be so i made it 1/2" wider to accomidate different alternator and to get the pulley aligned perfectly with the crank pulley. Ill be using a turn buckle typle of tensrioner going from the alternator to the bolt hole on the top of the cylinder head.

im really starting to see why many people dont run ford 300s in racing applications. there is little to no aftermarket performance parts or assocories beside the cam, intake, and headers. Makes me wish that i had a plasma table!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Nice.

 

[bba952]

Alternator bracket finished.

 

[bba952]

update:

Found a unmolested Holly 4160 in the junkyard for $50 the other day and decided to use it on the inline 6. The main benefit of just using one carb is that its simpler to get running, which is important for when i do the initial startup on the motor (using a flat tappet cam). Im still goin to make a individual carburetor setup but its going to be more of a long term project.

After dissasembling and soaking the carb i removed the choke and cutoff the choke horn for more flow.

Then i painted the carb to hide the age, the date code says 1964. the paint used was the same gray rustoleium spray paint used on the motor. its not the right type of paint but i had it in the garage and its only a $50 carburetor.

Also mounted the steering box, catch can, and radiator overflow.

 

[bba952]

Update: Needed to make room in the hood for the carburetor so I made a hood cowl. I got the idea from Bill Jenkins Second-Gen Camaro he raced. The plan was to originally buy a "grump lump" cowl hood but I couldn't convince myself to pay $300 for a fiberglass one, so i made one with sheet metal. It took a couple of tries to weld it together without warping it but i got something decent looking and (most importantly) works. still doesnt look right to me, going to probably just bite the bullet and order a fiberglass one.

 

[bba952]

Haven't done much lately. This time of year is always a little tough on the wallet. but i did pick up some spindles, and an intake manifold from the junk yard. Now its time to clean!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I think 2 two barrels would be better for not leaning out the far cylinders. Or 2 small four barrels.

 

[BBR]

I like your creativity, and while that might work, I don't think it will work very well. Those are crazy long runners for a fuel/ air mixture to traverse. Throttle response might be measured in seconds. Haha.

You are pretty handy with fabricating stuff. Might consider whipping up a 4bbl upper that sits on that EFI lower. Round tube, square tube, whatever works.

Keep it up. I like the choice of a 300 six!

 

[bba952]

I like your creativity, and while that might work, I don't think it will work very well. Those are crazy long runners for a fuel/ air mixture to traverse. Throttle response might be measured in seconds. Haha.

You are pretty handy with fabricating stuff. Might consider whipping up a 4bbl upper that sits on that EFI lower. Round tube, square tube, whatever works.

Keep it up. I like the choice of a 300 six!

yea, the throttle response will suffer but im mainly worried about torque and the rev limit will be set at 5500. when lookin inside the plenum i noticed it just 2 separate plenums joined together (3 runners per intake opening), so i might end up going with 2 separate carburetors.

Its not going to be "fast" but it will be fun, cheap hot rodded truck. Plus it can be little money maker when negotiating races. Not many people have raced against this type of setup. lol

 

[bba952]

Mocked up the intake and clearanced the fire wall. I forgot how much space this manifold takes up.

I weighed the intake and it came out to be 27 pounds. Im goin to try and take around 5 pounds off it by cutting unnecessary metal and cleaning off the casting parting lines.