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3.0 HP and or MPG increase


Nope. Dyno'd ~190rwhp stock and 270rwhp with my work done to it, and I am pretty sure I am closer to 300rwhp at this point, but I cannot be sure until after the dyno this weekend.



Also false. Going from a mechanical fan that was in perfect condition along with the clutch to an electric fan gained me more than 1MPG, closer to 2MPG along with a few ponies.

This is with a 1998 3.0L Ranger? How about posting up some charts?

:bsflag::bsflag:
 
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P.S. - If I was running 190rwhp on this truck I would be ecstatic! If only they could have dropped the 5.0L in it for us. Eh, you work with what you have. :D
 
Just curious which brand and model # e-fan you installed, and how many amps it draws? (What does the e-fan use for a thermostat?)

Also, since you have access to a dyno, do you know many "parasitic" HP just the mechanical fan alone draws?

Those are two data we'd all benefit from. Thanks in advance.
 
Just curious which brand and model # e-fan you installed, and how many amps it draws? (What does the e-fan use for a thermostat?)

Also, since you have access to a dyno, do you know many "parasitic" HP just the mechanical fan alone draws?

Those are two data we'd all benefit from. Thanks in advance.

As for dyno, I have never put the Ranger (bone stock anyway) on one so I cannot speak to it. On my car it was good for ~5-8hp as I recall.

My choice for electric fans are, in order: Mark VIII, 3.8L Taurus, 4.6L T-Bird/Cougar. They all move massive amounts of air. They do draw quite a bit, though. The Taurus pulls ~36A as I recall, and the VIII was measured with a peak of 42A. I personally run the VIII fan and a Flex-A-Lite 33054 controller on my car, and what I intend to run on my Ranger. The controller is ~$100, and I grab my fans from the junkyard. There are cheaper options for controllers, although not with the nice features like soft-start that I really think is a must on these fans that can spike 100A on a hard start-up. I will gladly answer any other questions you have, but I think I have already hijacked this thread enough.
 
WOW... that is some serious amperage... what does a stock Ranger alternator supply, and what does it mean for your fan when the headlights, foglights, stereo, etc. are all ON?

Good point on the soft-start, even with DC motors.
 
WOW... that is some serious amperage... what does a stock Ranger alternator supply, and what does it mean for your fan when the headlights, foglights, stereo, etc. are all ON?

Good point on the soft-start, even with DC motors.

It does pull quite a bit. My car stock had a 100A, and I upgraded it to 130A before the fan. There are guys that get by with the fan and the stock alternator, but they make sure to have their entire electrical system in good condition. I have had no issues with the 130A alternator; the headlights do not dim with the stereo on, fog lights on, and A/C running. I believe the stock Ranger alternator is 95A, although there was an option for 130A. I just grabbed a 130A alternator out of a 96-98 Explorer at the junkyard this weekend...it is a bolt-on deal.
 
So still you're saying that the bigger alternator is sucking less shaft HP than the mechanical fan w/ clutch, for a net savings?
 
So still you're saying that the bigger alternator is sucking less shaft HP than the mechanical fan w/ clutch, for a net savings?

Whenever you go from mechanical to electrical to mechanical there will always be losses due to efficiencies being << 100%.
 
So still you're saying that the bigger alternator is sucking less shaft HP than the mechanical fan w/ clutch, for a net savings?

There is a negligible loss of power by upgrading the alternator, but ditching the mechanical fan gains power.
 
An electric fan is in no way more efficient than a mechanical fan. The ONLY advantage is for wheeling purposes where you might need to turn it off.
 
An electric fan is in no way more efficient than a mechanical fan. The ONLY advantage is for wheeling purposes where you might need to turn it off.

Tell that to the dyno, and to all of us out here that get better fuel economy after switching from mechanical to electrical fans.
 
Tell that to the dyno, and to all of us out here that get better fuel economy after switching from mechanical to electrical fans.


Words are cheap!!!

In addition to the e-fan not making much difference:

1) They don't have the cooling capacity of the mechanical fan/clutch

2) They are way less reliable than the mechanical fan/clutch due to all the components:

a) electric motor
b) wiring and connectors (including fuses)
c) controller, which has at least 1 relay
d) temp sensor

And if something fails, you are S.O.L.!!!!



Even Flex-a-lite recommends the mechanical fan/clutch over their 6200cfm e-fan for heavy towing with diesels!!!



315396418_sMotp-X2.jpg
 
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Words are cheap!!!

...and yet all you are doing is yammering. :dunno:

1) They don't have the cooling capacity of the mechanical fan/clutch

The Mark VIII fan moves at least 4300CFM. None of the gasoline engines with mechanical fans I have ever encountered can move anywhere near that much air.

2) They are way less reliable than the mechanical fan/clutch due to all the components:

a) electric motor
b) wiring and connectors (including fuses)
c) controller, which has at least 1 relay
d) temp sensor

And if something fails, you are S.O.L.!!!!

I cannot argue that a mechanical fan failure is less "catastrophic" than that of an electric fan. However, how often do you hear of electric fan failure? Why do all new cars have electric fans? Yes, there are more failure points for an electric fan. If you design the system correctly, it is not going to fail any more than any other electronic piece of your vehicle.

Even Flex-a-lite recommends the mechanical fan/clutch over their 6200cfm e-fan for heavy towing with diesels!!!

That is a diesel you mook! They also run 15W-40 oil, does that mean you should throw that in your gasoline engine?!? You yourself just dimed out your statement with "heavy towing with diesels" since that is a totally different scenario. Those engines can use the power to turn bigger fans better as a benefit.
 
The Mark VIII fan moves at least 4300CFM. None of the gasoline engines with mechanical fans I have ever encountered can move anywhere near that much air.

I guess you have never measured the blade area, and pitch on a mechanical fan before!!:D:D


That is a diesel you mook! They also run 15W-40 oil, does that mean you should throw that in your gasoline engine?!? You yourself just dimed out your statement with "heavy towing with diesels" since that is a totally different scenario. Those engines can use the power to turn bigger fans better as a benefit

Just proving a point, e-fans don't have the cooling capacity of a mechical fan/clutch!!:icon_confused:


Matter of fact, here is another statement from Flex-a-lite, proving an e-fan doesn't have the capacity of a mechanical fan!!!

"NOTE: Flex-a-lite does not recommend using
an electric fan for the primary cooling source on
4-core radiators. Flex-a-lite recommends at least
60% of the finned core area be covered by an
electric fan/shroud assembly for optimum cooling."
 
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