2010 drivers side floorpan patch panel?

[salt_monger]

2010 ranger ext cab.

I decided to tackle some deeper surface rust I had on my drivers rocker panel front. To get at this area I removed the drivers front fender and my drivers door.

When I removed the plastic door sill plate to get the door seal out of the way, I noticed alot of rusty colored sand/dirt packed under it. As I pulled the rubber floor back I saw alot of deep surface rust. Really deep. Poking at it with a screwdriver confirmed it had eaten thru. I pulled the whole interior and cleaned and wire wheel'd teh area. See the pics for what I found. Sad trombone noises ensued. Thankfully the rust is isolated to the area in the pics below, with the rest of the floorpan in great shape.

My question: Does anyone know of a company that sells floorpan patches for a 2010 rangers? I've found a few companies online selling pans for older rangers (83-89 I think), but nothing that will fit a 2010. I emailed one company in Michigan asking if their older pan would fit with some adjustments and they said their drivers side pan would need to be sectioned into a numer of pieces and welded back together to work. ;(

 

[superj]

if no one sells that piece, i would just bend some sheet metal myself and weld it in place. it might not have all those grooves and strengthing bends in it but if you treat that stuff already in place and put another layer on top of new metal, i don;t see how it wouldn;t work

 

[Blmpkn]

I believe anything post 93 *should* work but yeah.. after browsing Google for a bit definitely seems like NO ONE makes floors for 93-11 trucks.. wild.

I'm with @superj ... Just cut out the crap and jigsaw it back together.

 

[salt_monger]

if no one sells that piece, i would just bend some sheet metal myself and weld it in place. it might not have all those grooves and strengthing bends in it but if you treat that stuff already in place and put another layer on top of new metal, i don;t see how it wouldn;t work

I'll hit autowrecker and find a solid floorpan piece before I do the above. No offense intended, but layering over that rusted part (eve if treated with ospho/rust mort) is, IMO, a hack job.

 

[Blmpkn]

I'll hit autowrecker and find a solid floorpan piece before I do the above. No offense intended, but layering over that rusted part (eve if treated with ospho/rust mort) is, IMO, a hack job.

So cut it back to clean metal and butt weld it all back together..

Finding one from a yard would be much easier though lol good luck on your search.

 

[salt_monger]

So cut it back to clean metal and butt weld it all back together..

Finding one from a yard would be much easier though lol good luck on your search.

Yeah, I;m gonna splice in a new piece with butt welds.

Pick-n-pull is great for stuff like this, but its just alot more pain than , say, buying a preformed pan that is close to the original and cutting a patch out of it.

I'm also concerned that this may be more of a 'systemic' issue to Rangers of the 2000's and that I'll have a hard time finding a pan that is solid. Its also kind of a bitch to cut out the part I want. Gotta remove some interior, and probably pull the front fender liner and maybe fender for easy access, A number of spot welds need to be drilled where the pan goes over the rocker, and a sawzall for cutting the pan part, etc etc. My local Pick-n-pull doesnt allow grinders or anything that makes sparks - they make an exception for sawzalls. If I could buy a decent quality partial or full new drivers pan part for $75 bucks+ shipping I'd jump at it.

 

[superj]

Yeah, it would be a lot of work to pull a bunch of stuff

 

[salt_monger]

Yeah, it would be a lot of work to pull a bunch of stuff

thankfully the 'pick-n-pull' yards here dont really give two f's about what you do to get stuff out of the way to get your part. So carpet in the way? Utility knife. no need to f around much. But yeah there will be spot welds galore and lots of sawzall action.

 

[salt_monger]

So here's the result.

Ranger rust fixin' · May 20 – Jun 5 📸

Shared album · Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

Suffice to say the bottom of the drivers side A pillar was very rotten and had to be replaced. I ended up splicing 3 pieces together to make a floor pan patch which I'm still not happy with. Interestingly the 10 2000+ rangers that were at my local 'Pick N Pull' ALL had rust in exactly the same area of the drivers floorpan and in the bottom of the a pillar where it meets the rocker panel. I really wish I could have accessed a new aftermarket floorpan patch for the drivers side...

NOTE: Yeah I'm in Canada, and yeah we put salt on our roads.

ALSO, there was significant rust between the rear seat bolt mounts on both the drivers side and passenger side. The rust was through the floorpan AND had eaten a chunk of the cab support brace underneath. Pics in album. I suspect this rusted UP from the underside. and since both sides had the same problem in the same area Id tend to think a collection of salt+water was accumulating in these spots and wasnt able to be washed out/rinsed.

Rear cab corners are good. Passenger side bottom of A-pillar and passenger floor pan where it meets the A-Pillar are in very good shape. Remaining Underside of cab that I can see looks pretty good. There are riveted heat shields in place where I cant see under and of course the insides of the cab support braces.

Oh, and while my drivers front fender is in decent shape exterior wise, the structural rib that is at the rear part of the fenderwas eaten right thru near the bottom - but the inside exterior metal almost touchingthe rusted thru area was almost pristine. I didnt get a pic unfortunately.