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2.9 headache


first off all do a fuel pressure test. with a fuel pressure tester or you can press the scrader vavle with a pointy object ans see if its under pressure. You only want to do this on a cold engine and wear saftey glasses as i wuill spray a little bit of fuel. next get a noid light kit (about 20$ at the aprt store)
this plugs in to the injector harness and have someone crank the motor and the noid light shoudl be flashing. chekc all of the conectors in the engine compartment to see if any have came loose. check for backpressure also at the tail pipe (one way to see if you have a major internal problem.

and yes another way to tell if its not getting fuel is simply starting fluid. if it starts with starting fluid its a fuel /managment issue

also have you tried to open the throttle a little bit and try to start it?
 
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do u know where the scrader valve would be located on a 89? and how do i check for back pressure when it wont start up?
 
im not very mechanically inclined as you can tell. what is easiest way to see if the injectors are firing? i hear the fuel pump kick on,,, if it were a fuel issue wouldnt it start after spraying with starting fluid? it just cranks over , then every once in a while it sounds like it tries to start. what is price difference between the OBD1 and OBD2 , and which one would u suggest buying? i am totally clueless on this 2.9 issue. thanks. is there a way to check timing without a timing light?

I don't see how your going to get much done with really no tools.. :icon_twisted:

Follow what low_five is saying, save the cost of the OBD-I scanner and buying something else that going to help. Use a paper clip at the self-test harness (follow the diagram) and blink out codes through the check engine light. The instructions are under 'ECC-IV Diagnostics' in the technical library. Once do this once, you'll realize how really easy it is. It's very possible that you'd buy an expensive scanner, only to pull 11s.

Yes, it should start with starting fluid for a second or two. I've had a few people tell me that is wrong, but I've never had an engine not start with starting fluid with a properly functioning ignition system. :dunno:

A tale tale sign if your injectors are functioning is if you have fuel in the cylinders. If the fuel system is fine, it is probably also washing the cylinder walls with gasoline.

Usually the TFI works the opposite way, craps out when it gets hot, then works again when it gets cold. But that's a different problem than moisture.

Lots of info out there, including in the technical library, on testing the coil and other TFI components. I would run through some of those procedures and see if you can't trace the cause of the issue.

Testing the timing while no light? I can only think of one way, which wouldn't be safe (cooling fan) or practical for accuracy.

Pete
 
to do the paper clip trick where do i do that at is it under the hood? or inside by the fuse box? i have no clue,,
 
thanks

i unhooked the battery for about 10 minutes.. had a hair dryer on the distributor for about a half hour,, and hooked the battery back up and the truck fired right up.. ran rough for about minute, then smoothed out and ran fine, does this make sense to anyone, and should i still hook it up to see if it has any codes now ? thanks for all the help
 
i unhooked the battery for about 10 minutes.. had a hair dryer on the distributor for about a half hour,, and hooked the battery back up and the truck fired right up.. ran rough for about minute, then smoothed out and ran fine, does this make sense to anyone, and should i still hook it up to see if it has any codes now ? thanks for all the help

well yes.... unfortunatly. what you're discribing can be several things yet.

Much is going to repeat and reinforce what Psychopete had to offer. being wet under the cap is counter productive to getting spark delivered to the right area, could be just a cracked cap as previously suggested. the hair dryer dried things out so spark was delivered propery

sound like your having a spark issue more that a fuel issue.

the only other suggestion is it could be the pick-up coil...inside the distributor.

im not very mechanically inclined as you can tell. what is easiest way to see if the injectors are firing? i hear the fuel pump kick on,,, if it were a fuel issue wouldnt it start after spraying with starting fluid? it just cranks over , then every once in a while it sounds like it tries to start. what is price difference between the OBD1 and OBD2 , and which one would u suggest buying?

In a nut shell...OBD1 is just a very early means of storing engine performance data or operating system if you will...for example like a computer opearting system to pre windows 98. this system was used in some fashion or another by every manufacture and was upgrade to OBD2 after 1994-1996 when a few things became more standardized & more advance. SO if your truck is older than 94' it had a OBD1 system.
 
Have you even done a tune-up yet (cap, rotor, plugs, wires)? These are basic maintenance items that should be done regardless when you buy a vehicle. From what you describe, you're having problems with the ignition system. A tune up costs less than 50 bucks and replaces more than half the ignition system and might likely fix your problem.
 
check your coil,and coil wire. make sure you're getting fuel to the cylinders. these are the easiest to check first.
 
thought all was well.. truck starts right up,,, idles and drives with a little miss, but when i drive it and get up to about 50 mph it jerks and misses bad, any one have any idea ? the check engine isnt on though,, the brake light and the aniti lock light are on though,, running to local parts store tommorrow to hook up to computer and see if it gives any input,
 
thought all was well.. truck starts right up,,, idles and drives with a little miss, but when i drive it and get up to about 50 mph it jerks and misses bad, any one have any idea ?

You never stated if the engine had ever been tuned up. I generally do this first when buying any used vehicle. Has the engine been tuned up recently (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc)? I might start there first and rule out the possibility of a worn regular maintance item.

Pete
 
actually the tune up was done all except plugs.. did plugs today and the truck is running fine plenty of power, starts up and idles fine, thanks everyone,, oh one more problem,, the brake light and the rear antilock light comes on after driving for about 5 or 10 minutes.
 
did you disconnect the battery when you put your new starter in take #1 spark plug out..... put propane torch close to hole turn engine over. If Fire comes out of hole and spark plug has weak yellow colored arc with no blue arcing then your control module is a likely suspect make sure rotor in distributor is turning put crankshaft at top dead center mark on timing cover and check to see if rotor is facing #1 as indicated in Horrible Haynes if facing opposite direction then turn crank 360 degrees and line up TDC again double check all wires on solenoid switch located on fender well beside battery check wires going to distributor on back of engine you can check codes with a simple handheld voltmeter for less than 20 dollars be careful dont let fire get you when performing propane trick make small flame if can possibly your lighter if can stay lit try eec iv at google to look at various web sights that will explain in great detail how to diagnose each sensor and code checking good luck have fun Aloha!
 
i recently purchased a 89 ranger with a 2.9 for a 100 bucks. it started right up drove it 45 minutes home.. then the starter went out.. replaced that started up fine, but now it cranks over and over and wont start, ,i have shot starting fluid in it and still no start,, checked for spark,, its getting some spark but not sure if it is getting enough, i have no idea where to go from here on it. any suggestions?

Look around your battery and wires, check that all those little black ground wires are hooked to the frame somewere, I got in my truck a week ago, and it cranked and cranked, nothing, i looked under the hood and it was a little black gorund wire had came off. amazing one little wire can stop a whole truck from running lol
 
To check codes with a paper clip go to test plug above parking brake pedel.
next to fuses. put clip in left to holes of test plug. turn on key count blinks on dash
 

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