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2.8 Rebuild
- Thread starter Danni84
- Start date
kimcrwbr1
Well-Known Member
Less than 100K I would do a compression test if it is even reseal the motor stick it in and run it till it pukes. It is just barely broke in.
Viva*the*Ranger
Well-Known Member
Looks like the quote is missing this ([/QUOTE]) on the end of it. You might have accidentally deleted it. It happens.
Danni84
Active Member
So here is the motor we got at PicknPull. Came out of an 85 Ranger with 71k that rolled.
Dirty and gross
Nice and clean! Oven Cleaner works magic!
Our Resident Mechanic
Almost done taking it apart, just got to break the dang exhaust manifold bolts loose.
Gunk inside Valve Covers.
Tonight we will get it down to the block, finish cleanin it up, and hopefully get it over to the shop within the next few days.
Dirty and gross
Nice and clean! Oven Cleaner works magic!
Our Resident Mechanic
Almost done taking it apart, just got to break the dang exhaust manifold bolts loose.
Gunk inside Valve Covers.
Tonight we will get it down to the block, finish cleanin it up, and hopefully get it over to the shop within the next few days.
kimcrwbr1
Well-Known Member
Maybe 171 grand looking at the valve covers and rockers. It should still be a good core. Be sure and pull the bushing/tubes that line up the timing cover and the water pump they are hard to find. Parts have a way of disappearing at the rebuild shop strip it down good.
kimcrwbr1
Well-Known Member
I just noticed the upper thermostat housing that is also like gold be sure and use that manifold and thermostat housing when you install it. If your truck has the same setup I am sure someone here can use the extra one.
kimcrwbr1
Well-Known Member
Sorry I meant the bushings that line up the timing cover and the block for the water pump.
Danni84
Active Member
If I have extra parts I will be sure to make them available. I know I have had a hard time finding some parts for this thing. I lucked out finding a complete motor, it was the only one in a hundred mile radius. When Im finished I will list any parts that I dont need.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 5,402
- State - Country
- GA - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Engine
- 5.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Total Drop
- few inches
- Tire Size
- ~30"
What transmission has your truck got, manual or auto?
I can recommend the Duraspark II stuff, but can't say you'll get the gas mileage you mentioned in your other thread. I only ever got 12-15 MPG out of my rebuild 2.8 running the DSII, but I also had a cam, headers full dual exhaust, intake, and a poor tune on a 390cfm Holley 4bbl. Mine wouldn't have been great on gas regardless, and my lead foor didn't help either. I can't say how good a near stock 2.8L with a much smaller 2bbl carb would do, bound to be better than I got. I think that most people do the swap because as it gets older the stock electronics start failing and get unreliable, and some of those parts can be hard to come by now.
Since you are doing a rebuild you will be replacing all gaskets which is the first thing I would have suggested. I'd recommend picking up a set of metal timing gears, the factory ones were phenolic (a strong composite) with a metal ring pressed on the out side for teeth. Metal ones weigh about the same but are much stronger, and you won't have to worry about potential failure from stress and fatigue. Go ahead and pick up a high volume oil pump, doesn't cost much more that the stock volume unit and it's a little extra insurance. Go ahead and have the heads checked, don't want to get it back together and find out they are bad (this engine design is prone to cracked heads). While it's at the shop might be a good time to have a valve job done, but y'all probably knew that already. Let your machinist check the block and crank, he'll tell you what you need to get for bearing sizes, piston sizes, etc.
If you end up with a spare set of rocker arms, shafts and pedestals (which you will since you got two motors) I'd recommend doing the free floating rocker mod. This mod is more for people that are building higher revving street engines, but it reduces friction on the rocker arms, which in turn can free up power which makes the engine more efficient. More efficient engine means better gas mileage. Speaking of freeing up power for increased efficiency an electric fan might be worth looking into.
If you're looking to get a little more power, a cam would be a great place to start. For your 4x4 I'd recommend something that makes power in the lower RPM range, unless you are playing in the mud most 4x4 use most of their power in the lower part of the RPM band. It's risky if you don't know what you are doing, but a mild Port & Polish can free up a little power as well, not something I'd recommend unless you got a good set of spare heads. If you do those I'd recommend a set of headers to go with. Not really necessary for a stock rebuild though.
Outside the engine, you might want to look at the transmission and gearing. IIRC if you have a manual transmission you can upgrade the flywheel and clutch to 4.0L components which are stronger. If you have an auto, install a separate transmission cooler. If your trans is in rough shape one from a 4.0L Ranger should bolt right up. Only other thing to look at would be your gearing int he axles, make sure it is appropriate for your tire size (if not stock). There's a calculator in the tech library that will take your stock tire size, gear ratio and new tire size and recommend a new gear ratio to regain stock like performance.
I can recommend the Duraspark II stuff, but can't say you'll get the gas mileage you mentioned in your other thread. I only ever got 12-15 MPG out of my rebuild 2.8 running the DSII, but I also had a cam, headers full dual exhaust, intake, and a poor tune on a 390cfm Holley 4bbl. Mine wouldn't have been great on gas regardless, and my lead foor didn't help either. I can't say how good a near stock 2.8L with a much smaller 2bbl carb would do, bound to be better than I got. I think that most people do the swap because as it gets older the stock electronics start failing and get unreliable, and some of those parts can be hard to come by now.
Since you are doing a rebuild you will be replacing all gaskets which is the first thing I would have suggested. I'd recommend picking up a set of metal timing gears, the factory ones were phenolic (a strong composite) with a metal ring pressed on the out side for teeth. Metal ones weigh about the same but are much stronger, and you won't have to worry about potential failure from stress and fatigue. Go ahead and pick up a high volume oil pump, doesn't cost much more that the stock volume unit and it's a little extra insurance. Go ahead and have the heads checked, don't want to get it back together and find out they are bad (this engine design is prone to cracked heads). While it's at the shop might be a good time to have a valve job done, but y'all probably knew that already. Let your machinist check the block and crank, he'll tell you what you need to get for bearing sizes, piston sizes, etc.
If you end up with a spare set of rocker arms, shafts and pedestals (which you will since you got two motors) I'd recommend doing the free floating rocker mod. This mod is more for people that are building higher revving street engines, but it reduces friction on the rocker arms, which in turn can free up power which makes the engine more efficient. More efficient engine means better gas mileage. Speaking of freeing up power for increased efficiency an electric fan might be worth looking into.
If you're looking to get a little more power, a cam would be a great place to start. For your 4x4 I'd recommend something that makes power in the lower RPM range, unless you are playing in the mud most 4x4 use most of their power in the lower part of the RPM band. It's risky if you don't know what you are doing, but a mild Port & Polish can free up a little power as well, not something I'd recommend unless you got a good set of spare heads. If you do those I'd recommend a set of headers to go with. Not really necessary for a stock rebuild though.
Outside the engine, you might want to look at the transmission and gearing. IIRC if you have a manual transmission you can upgrade the flywheel and clutch to 4.0L components which are stronger. If you have an auto, install a separate transmission cooler. If your trans is in rough shape one from a 4.0L Ranger should bolt right up. Only other thing to look at would be your gearing int he axles, make sure it is appropriate for your tire size (if not stock). There's a calculator in the tech library that will take your stock tire size, gear ratio and new tire size and recommend a new gear ratio to regain stock like performance.
Danni84
Active Member
Well right now Ive got a 4 speed manual but I found a 5 speed. I just need to cough up the money and go get it. However if the 4.0 5 speed will work I will look for one of those since they are more common. Next week we are going to take the whole dismantled mess over to our shop and let him go over everything heads, valves, crank, cam, block, all that stuff. He is going to tell us what needs work or replaced and then we can get our rebuild kit with the appropriate parts. Another question... Axle swaps: we have a Ford 8.8 out of a 98 exploder for the rear, its about six inches wider total so I was wondering what would be a good match for the front? I like solid axles and the hubby likes TTB. Any suggestions? Oh and as far as 4 wheelin, I like to tear around in the mud, trails, and large puddles(small ponds?) If there's mud I want to play in it, that's my style of offroading
85_Ranger4x4
Wallows in rivers
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Well right now Ive got a 4 speed manual but I found a 5 speed. I just need to cough up the money and go get it. However if the 4.0 5 speed will work I will look for one of those since they are more common. Next week we are going to take the whole dismantled mess over to our shop and let him go over everything heads, valves, crank, cam, block, all that stuff. He is going to tell us what needs work or replaced and then we can get our rebuild kit with the appropriate parts. Another question... Axle swaps: we have a Ford 8.8 out of a 98 exploder for the rear, its about six inches wider total so I was wondering what would be a good match for the front? I like solid axles and the hubby likes TTB. Any suggestions? Oh and as far as 4 wheelin, I like to tear around in the mud, trails, and large puddles(small ponds?) If there's mud I want to play in it, that's my style of offroading
There is more like 3" difference, it is noticable because you will know about it but the average person probably wouldn't pick up on it. BTW the stock axle is about the same degree narrower than the front right now.
91-94 Explorers and later TTB Rangers are pretty common and have the same exact width. With good joints the TTB D35 is nothing to be scared of.
Danni84
Active Member
Huh when I looked at the specs I thought it came out to 3" on each side. I would like the front and rear to be the same that's why I was looking for something wider for the front. Your truck is great by the way, I just looked at your build thread.
Danni84
Active Member
Trying to put the 2.8 back together and ran into a small hiccup. We broke something and dont know what its called to find a replacement.
Timing cover plate gasket???
Has gaskets on both sides and slides in between the timing gears and the block.
Timing cover plate gasket???
Has gaskets on both sides and slides in between the timing gears and the block.
85_Ranger4x4
Wallows in rivers
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As good of a name as any...
Probably something you are going to have get from a JY if your old engine doesn't have one, it is hardly a common wear item for a parts store to stock.
Probably something you are going to have get from a JY if your old engine doesn't have one, it is hardly a common wear item for a parts store to stock.
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