2.6lv6 4x4 carb flods after start

[rangerI983v62.8L]

ok. I will do that sometime tomorrow. I just got finished with the rebuild of the carb. Thanks for all your help. I will keep posting on regards to the outcome after the adjustment of the float.

 

[AndyB.]

I was mistaken, it is from the top of the fuel bowl to the top of the fuel, sorry about that.

The .810 is for an 85 2.8 with the 2150a, but to get it to stop overflowing, 3/4 or .810 should be close enough.

There is also a dry setting that might be detailed in the directions with your carb kit. This measures the gap from the top of the gloat to the top of the fuel bowl. For an 85 with a 2.8, my ford special specifications book has this at 1/16", the car kit sheet had it at 7/16", I see some specs for a carb with an E37e date code in another book using 7/16, so I'd probably go with that.

 

[drsvox]

Looking at the third video your float looks like it's way too high and the needle will never seat. Drain the fuel from the bowl and adjust using dry settings.

Might consider using a new float too, if you have not already during your rebuild.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The dry float adjustment is just a preadjustment you must do the wet float adjustment or at least check it. Sometimes you get lucky. 7/16 is the dry float setting do the wet float at .810 or 3/4 either one will work just fine. 3/4 = .750 and 13/16 = .8125.

 

[AndyB.]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2-NsWHOSKWQ

I watched your other video, you are missing the needle valve that is connected to the float.

Also, the mixture solenoid is broken, the black plastic connector at the end should not come off, the white connector should be unplugged from it. The way things are, I woukd worry about the mixture solenoid. Without the needle valve, the float is useless.

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

thats a new float.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The solenoid on the back of the carb is the feedback solenoid and controls air bleed into the jets and should be dry it is just getting flooded with fuel. You dont wan to keep pouring fuel on the top of the engine unless you looking for a bon fire to warm up. It looked to me like the wire clip that holds the float down is not pushed down onto the inlet needle seat. There is a groove on the brass seat that the wire snaps on to hold the float down. You should be able to run the motor with the top off of the carb to check the wet float level but not if fuel is spilling out the bowl. I will see if I can find a pic on how the wire is clipped on.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf
You can use this for most all 2150 carbs just scroll down to the float it shows you how the wire is clipped on.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Do not attempt to adjust the float level in the carb. Pull the float and bend the tab then snap it back in. Pull the coil wire and then crank on the motor after you remove some fuel it should only take a few seconds cranking for the float needle to close and measure the level in the center of the fuel to the top of the float bowl. You can start it like that just keep a fire extinguisher handy in case it backfires.

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

ok! first of all thank you very much for all the input on this issue. And we got it running!, it was the float that was not adjusted. Did the adjustment and got it running again. NO more flooding!....Now, How do i adjust the carb?. I will post a video on my channel again if you guys want to hear and see how the carb is running. I will post as soon as i up load it. Title will be "83 ranger carb running"

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

its uploaded. 4 videos in total: titles are "83 ranger carb #1, 83 ranger carb #2,"... and so on, just change the number at the end of the title. Include the hash tag. Please let me know what you guys think. More info on this truck: The truck has no original catalytic converter. The previous owner butcher it big time!. He half ass welded a cherry bomb on it from the "Y" pipe. The chopped off the a/c compressor. I have several lines that are plugged up with screws in the engine bay area, and the heater core has a hole on the housing where is mounted and does not work. I have a big list of things that need work, but i want to try to get it running like it was before moving on. I am thinking of doing a plugs change again. Like i said on one of the videos i uploaded, its been sitting for a while until yesterday. thank you all!!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If it is still running on the computer harness you need to do the duraspark conversion. About 150 bucks for the distributor, module, cap adaptor, cap and rotor. You can get the harness off of a 84 2.0 ranger for the distributor. I only had to splice one wire for the duraspark conversion and am still using the stock coil for three years now. You only need to cut one or two wires to completely remove the computer harness. If you cut any wires cut them long for future use!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The 2.8 like the setting rich on the idle air needles turn them in to lightly seated and then back out 3 1/2 turns each after it warms up set the idle speed around 800 rpms and then one at a time slowly turn it out 18 turn at a time for the highest possible rpms and then back in until the rpms just begin to drop. just keep adjusting the rpms to 800 with the idle stop on the side of the carb as the cable. If you have a vacuum guage it works a little better you want the highest possible vacuum pressure at 800 rpms. Get some #42 jets and change out the 50s that are in there.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4acd9449ee&vxp=mtr
Use a large screwdriver they are in there pretty tight. Install the new ones just as tight.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Turn the needles 1/8 turn at a time and wait a few seconds between adjustments and watch the tach or vacuum guage.

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

ok. i will try that. thank you