2.5L ('98-'01) 2.5 valve seats

[peepaw truck]

Hey guys, it's been a minute. Family illnesses, etc. My 2000 Ranger 2.5 is at 278k, still doesn't burn oil, but I believe it's getting the valve seat deal. Anyone got a line on good reman engines and a good shop to do the work? I'm in upstate SC. Thanks!

 

[peepaw truck]

Also, the engine sometimes races when shifting. I've checked the throttle cable and cleaned the throttle body and it still happens sporadically. Any ideas?

 

[Ed K]

Hi,
I also have a 2000 2.5L so maybe I can help a bit.
As far as the "valve seat deal", are you referring to the well known issue of recessed valve seats? If so, there are some good videos on You Tube about this issue.
I think I have a couple links saved from a few years ago when I was researching the problem for my truck.
In the meantime; If I remember correctly, there are a few things you can do to test for recessed valves-
1- Compression test.
2- Cylinder leak down test
3- Water test- If the head is already out of the vehicle, you can turn the head so the combustion chambers are upward, fill them with water or other liquid and see if any of the valves leak after some time.
I'll have to get back into this again since I never got around to checking my engine since many other things kept rusting off, breaking, or failing for 3 years straight so testing for recessed valve seats took a back seat to everything else.
As I come up with information, or videos I'll post them here. I figured I'd post a quick reply rather than leave you hanging.
Oh, regarding the random RPM racing; It could be from several things but one thing you might check is your IAC ( Idle Air Control) valve. If you don't know what, or where it is just let me know, I have pics of mine, both an aftermarket Hitachi replacement and the OEM Motorcraft valve I ended up going back to since the Hitachi valve was causing extreme RPM surges when shifting, stopping, and pulling out from stops signs, etc.
If your truck has an aftermarket IAC valve it could be the issue since Ford used a solenoid type IAC on the 2.5L( maybe others too, but I know they did on the 2.5l) while aftermarket IAC valves are either stepper type, or a hybrid between the two.
Our little 4 banger only likes to run with a true solenoid type IAC valve. I just removed and cleaned my OEM again last week. I actually reinstalled it a couple years ago after the Hitachi kept causing problems.
Other possible causes could be-
Dirty/Faulty MAF( Mass Air Flow) sensor
Vacuum leak/broken or missing line
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.

 

[peepaw truck]

Thanks for your reply- sorry it took so long. I'm a retiree doing part time work and caring for my wife who is having surgery soon. At 289k I'm pretty sure about the valve seat deal. It still runs fairly well. The idle problem is more troublesome and will rev to3k at times between shifts and lately I'm cruising to a stop and as soon as I hit the clutch it will go to 3k before returning to normal. It's killing the gas mileage. I'm going to check the IAC and everything else that seems relevant asap. It been averaging close to 100 degrees every day here and I don't take it as well as I used to. Thanks again and I'll post anything I learn as soon as I can.

 

[Ed K]

Hi Peepaw, first let me say I hope your wife's surgery goes well and she has a full recovery.
I should have read your credo before posting my initial reply since you're a retired auto tech/mechanic and didn't need the break down instructions. But since I didn't, at least maybe they'll help
someone else in the future. I meant no disrespect.
I had to look up the recessed valve issue again since I couldn't find any saved links, I could have sworn I had some.
Anyway, here are some links to either videos or other Forum posts regarding the issue. I'll post each creator's name for proper credit.

Anthony Shelton

And the follow up video by Anthony-

EVERY DAY I RACE

And just in case you need it: How to install a timing belt/line up timing marks also by Every Day I Race (He uses a 2.3L for the demo but the 2.5L is the same procedure.)

DanielJaegerFilms-

That's all I have so far. Let me know if there's anything else you would like me to look up for you while you take care of your wife, I have a bunch of time on my hands and I'd be happy to do it.

 

[peepaw truck]

No offense taken at all. Thanks for your help. I'm just now getting a window to start trying to diagnose it. I wanted to get some good gasket sealer before I started removing parts to clean too. I would also be interested to know what you used to clean the IAC valve.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Cleaning an IAC is best done with MAF cleaner or electronic parts cleaner or whatever it's called...

 

[Ed K]

I used MAF cleaner and a little brush out of an old makeup kit my daughter never used to clean my IAC valve. Just keep the connector pointing up while you clean the valve.
Depending on how dirty it is, it might take awhile but it should clean up pretty good. Try to gently work the valve with your finger, but don't force it.
After cleaning; either blow it out with compressed air or let it air dry thoroughly. I think I used some left over canned air then let it air dry before reinstalling it.
Be careful with your tools when removing and installing the IAC on a 2.5L engine. Unlike the V6 engines that have the IAC right out in front and on top, the 2.5L has it at the right rear of the engine, with both
the mounting bolts and electrical connector pointing into the firewall.
I've lost a Craftsman alligator clip to my multimeter, and just recently I lost my Craftsman 3/8" drive 8 mm 6 point shallow socket because they both dropped somewhere between the engine and cross member when I was working on the IAC valve.

 

[peepaw truck]

I used MAF cleaner and a little brush out of an old makeup kit my daughter never used to clean my IAC valve. Just keep the connector pointing up while you clean the valve.
Depending on how dirty it is, it might take awhile but it should clean up pretty good. Try to gently work the valve with your finger, but don't force it.
After cleaning; either blow it out with compressed air or let it air dry thoroughly. I think I used some left over canned air then let it air dry before reinstalling it.
Be careful with your tools when removing and installing the IAC on a 2.5L engine. Unlike the V6 engines that have the IAC right out in front and on top, the 2.5L has it at the right rear of the engine, with both
the mounting bolts and electrical connector pointing into the firewall.
I've lost a Craftsman alligator clip to my multimeter, and just recently I lost my Craftsman 3/8" drive 8 mm 6 point shallow socket because they both dropped somewhere between the engine and cross member when I was working on the IAC valve.

I finally got to clean the valve. It worked ok for about a day and a half, then started to act up again. I got a new gasket and cleaner and redid the job and it seems much better now. By the gauge the gas mileage seems better. When I refill the tank I'll know for sure. Thanks Ed K!

 

[Ed K]

I finally got to clean the valve. It worked ok for about a day and a half, then started to act up again. I got a new gasket and cleaner and redid the job and it seems much better now. By the gauge the gas mileage seems better. When I refill the tank I'll know for sure. Thanks Ed K!

You're welcome.
Depending on how clogged the IAC is before cleaning, sometimes the valve will be too far gone, but it's always worth a shot.
If you were able to clean the valve very well and you start to have problems again you should probably check the connector pins and the valve pins for voltage and ohms. Sometimes problems can stem from either wiring or pin issues.
Mine looked okay and tested good which is why I chose to clean it, rather than replace it since it's extremely hard to find a new in box OEM IAC valve.

But just in case:
Here is the updated OEM Part number for the IAC valve for 2000 Ford Ranger 2.5L- CX1654.
I live right next door to my local Ford Dealership and the parts guys is very helpful. He gave me this updated number.
It replaces the following OEM numbers; F5oe-9F715-Aa, E9te-9F715-Aa, E9tE-95715-A1A. F5OZ-9F715-AB
The price he gave me at the time ( a year or two ago) was $174 but was out of stock (Discontinued).
I just checked Rock auto but it's no longer listed there, they have aftermarket versions but I wouldn't trust them.
Amazon has one listed with this part number but the reviews go both ways. One guy says it worked great on his 2000 2.5L but who knows if it's legit. I wouldn't trust this one either.
Here's a link so you can decide for yourself-

Amazon.com: Idle Air Control Valve and Throttle Position Sensor Compatible for Ranger 1997-2001 Fuel Injection Idle Air Control Valve for Mustang 1999 2000 Explorer 1997 Aerostar 1997 Mazda Lincoln AC117 CX1654 : Automotive

Buy Idle Air Control Valve and Throttle Position Sensor Compatible for Ranger 1997-2001 Fuel Injection Idle Air Control Valve for Mustang 1999 2000 Explorer 1997 Aerostar 1997 Mazda Lincoln AC117 CX1654: Idle Air Control Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Further searching came up with nothing useful unfortunately. Maybe you can get lucky in your area and an old Mom & Pop shop has one sitting on the shelf. Ya never know, ya know?