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2.3 wont idle/run for long


Besides on a truck that old the codes probably wont tell you to much anyways, i mean my ranger had an obd hook up but i dont know whats it gonna read, theres no o2 sensors, its carbed, and had a dizzy. not much there to go on.

but check the cats i'm not gonna gaurantee thats what whats wrong but it what it sounds like to me
Codes don`t mean anything unless it is sound mechanically. compression, intake/vacuum, ignition/tuneup, exhaust all will give you codes or not. A thorough diagnostic includes complete tune up plugs, wires, cap and rotor, PCV , vacuum hoses, air filter, oil and filter. Check compression/leakdown, vacuum test and timing. If the numbers are good then run the codes to diagnose the emissions for performance. A bad PCV will throw false codes same as a vacuum leak. There have been a few guys that have changed every sensor on their engine when it was a $4 PCV valve.
 
checked exhaust flow, the flow increases instantaniously when reved. im thinking its getting starved for air.. what should i do next? mabey i should take apart the TB and clean it out...
 
ok, i think i got somewere... just for curiousity, i disconnected the MAP's vac and electric connections and started the truck, ran rough, BUT it did not stall. i think that was the first time i turned the engine off on purpose cause it was running rough, how long can i run with the MAP disconnected to see if it will not stall?
 
getting closer, disconnected the MAPs electric connections and motor ran ok, not perfectly, but it did not stall, ran for a whole 5 mins before i decided to power down and rehook the MAP up. stalled in 20 secs after rehooking up the MAP. now, should i go out and get another MAP, or is is possible some other stupid thing? on a side note, i found a mud wasp nest between the valve cover and throttle body, seems like the truck was sittin a while...
 
Maybe you coud get one at the bone yard for cheap first and see if it helps before buying new.
 
new vacuum lines all the way around is never a bad idea on a older vehicle have you put a vacuum guage on it.
 
i hav't messured the actuall vacuum pressure, but i did stick my finger over the MAP's vac line, it sucks pretty good, i checked all the vac lines, and they seem ok, theres only like 5 of them, 3 are hard plastic, one goes to the FPR, its good, other is MAP, its good. if i let my finger off the MAP line, the motor revs up, so theres no major leaks atleast.. i'll have to look around here for a self service yard, havn't found one yet, the one i did goto were extremly over priced, they wanted 75$ for an OEM ford cassette tape radio, i pretty much decided to avoid that place.... autozone sells a MAP for 46$ with 2yr waranty. as far as i know, MAP sensors are interchanable with various engines and years, correct? old rangers are hard to find around here in bone yards, but F-150's are plentyful.
 
Couldnt tell you about interchangability, but i deffinately second the new vac line. if you get one that has a tiny leak it will drive you crazy trying to track it down, i actually came over here to tell you think about doing that but somebody beat me to it.
 
Vac lines will be replaced if MAP dont fix the issue, followed by O2 sensor, plus a complete TB cleaning. fuel system(injectors, FPR, pumps) is confirmed good now for sure.
 
MAP replaced, still stalls, just takes longer to stall, runs for a minute now before stalling. and yes, i disconnected the battery before starting it back up. Time to replace vac lines now? funny how it dosn't stall and runs for ever without the MAP plugged in...

Anyone got any suggestions? i need help.
 
i just had a few ideas of what it could be. what are the chances of a bad computer? what about a fuel injector problem, my oil smells funny, like theres some fuel in it.. disconnected the EGR and plugged it, disconnected the PCV valve and plugged it, ran longer, still will stall. realy runs like crap once you go into 2nd gear also. i am running out of ideas and money.
 
Bad computer is a possibility but i would wait until everything else has been tried as it can be pricy.

i guess you pull the injectors and see if theyre clogged up, dont think that would be the case since it runs fine for a little bit, but it is something you could check for free so you might look into it.

as for the egr valve usually when an egr valve sticks it will idle like crap but run fine.

i'm still running through possibilites for you. Might be time to pull the codes, i dont think it will tell us much but it might throw a code that will give us a hint. The symptoms just dont line up with anything else i remember coming across.
 
i thinking more like leaking injector, autozone has computers for 100$ plus i can return it if its not the cause. i think its time to take the whole TB off and examine it.
 
99% of parts stores wont let you return anything electrical if they even think you installed it, so be careful.

but its not hard to pull the codes and its free, too.
 

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