1998 ranger automatic hubs


New the forum, greetings. I have never had my hubs off on my 98 b3000 with vacuum hubs, but I understand a special tool is necessary to lift the tabs. Others say you can do it with a screwdriver. Is it worth it to buy the tool or is it easy to lift the tabs?
 
Covert to manual hubs. I did about 4 years ago and it was the best thing I ever did.

One suggestion. I did use Mile Markers at first because they were cheaper and I ended up blowing one of them shortly after putting them on. This is not from any major 4x4ing I was doing. I then switched to Warn Hubs and have been happy since.

This conversion can be done VERY simple

What is a good replacement hub i used the manual hubs that press on just like the vaccuum hubs, but they broke too. I have heard you can get the warn but they say they only work up to 1997.
 
so its the "outer hub seal" that you need when converting to manual hubs??? or whats it called so i can ask the dealership for it when i get my hubs?!?!?
Thanks
Beef
 
I did the "freebie" manual hub conversion today. Instead of leaving a thumb-size hole for engagemet, I used a 2" clevis, fender washer, crib bumper spring, washer, and rubber spacer in that order inside the center cap, and a small clevis pin on the outside. Once I did the conversion, I drilled through the center cap and inserted a rubber grommet in the hole. I now have a small pin sticking out the middle of the center cap which will keep 99% of the dirt and moisture out, and I can easily lock/unlock the hubs. Total cost... $10.
 
so its the "outer hub seal" that you need when converting to manual hubs??? or whats it called so i can ask the dealership for it when i get my hubs?!?!?
Thanks
Beef

You don't technically NEED anything when installing the AVM manual locking hubs. I just suggest replacing the inner knuckle/axle seal to ensure that contaminants don't find their way into the insides of the AVM lockouts. Ford calls it an axle seal I believe, but it actually presses into the knuckle.
 

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