1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....

[out cast]

Issues I've had...

1) phantom wipers
2) synchros in manual
3) tailgate not shutting properly
4) 4lo not working
5) center console broke (60/40 bench) so now it's like a valley

 

[johnnyboy110]

I have 133,000 on my 99 3.0 auto and I have a airbag light (I think it due to the pass turn off switch being gay) and and ABS light on. The ABS dosn't work but I hate ABS anyway so I don't care. The one that pisses me off the most is my trans.
For whatever reason, when at highway speeds the the trans shift fine for the first 20-25min. Then, it pops out of overdrive and a "OD OFF" light blinks. shut it off and back on and everything works for a bit. No codes or anything. I hate automatics.

 

[TwoTrackMind]

Careful what you ask for...

What are some of the problems encountered in the 1998 and newer Rangers that are specific to those models?

I don't have anything new to add. Just that on my one vehicle, I've had most everything thats been brought up here.

But thanks for asking.

 

[Apollo-Soyuz 1975]

On my '98 4-cylinder Ranger:

1. Strange repetitive squeaking noise under acceleration. I think it may be time to replace the U-joints. Noise either fades out or becomes too high-pitched to hear above ~25mph.
2. Water leak at top of rear window. Unsure if it is the seal or if there is a crack in the window frame. Wondering if there is a TSB for this. (and yes, I already have caulked my cab light!)
3. PITA driver's-side spark plug replacement procedure. I intentionally broke the "handle" off the number-3 plug wire connector before I figured out the proper way to install new plug wires. LOL woops
4. Squeaking/buzzing exhaust system. Annoying
5. Inboard left-front brake pad seized in the caliper bracket and wore out prematurely (during a 600-mile road trip ). Replaced pads and caliper bracket; lubed the heck out of the new bracket with 3M 08946 silicone paste before installing new pads.
6. HVAC temperature blend door. Top axle shaft broke in half. Just bought the Heatertreater kit and will perform the fix on my next day off work. And this time, I'll be smart and remove the pass. airbag assembly to reinstall the blend door motor.
7. Spark knock under engine load at highway speeds. Observed in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears depending on engine load, throttle input, etc. Haven't been on the freeway yet since I changed plugs; will update.
8. Grinding gears on the 2-3 upshift. I have the TSB about the 4th-gear synchro that is the root of this problem, but I'm way too broke to have my tranny cracked open to fix the problem.

 

[87Ranger4wd]

bought my 99' 3.0 XLT with 120,000 miles. immediatly had to replace;
-drive belt and tensioner
-grease drive shaft to stop clunk
-solder on new bulb to airbag off indicator to turn off dash light
-replace a few gauge lights
-WD40 the shit out of door hinges to get dome light to turn off
-pulled abs bulb from gauges, since i cant get the abs light out
-change brake pads, cheap replacement ones absorbed water when it rained and locked up
-gearing up to change cam synchro before it dies & destroys my engine

 

[Indecision]

Hi everyone !

I have that weird clunk front drivers side too, it happens when I turn left or hit a bump . how do I know for sure if its a bushing a spring or tie rod ? Is there a sure way to tell ? Is it best to just replace everything at once ? will I do more harm to it by driving it until I can fix it ?





Thanks
New Ranger owner used Ranger 2000 XLT Automatic

 

[Ruffinit]

2003 XLT "Splash"/ 5 spd / 2.3 duratec / 2wd / 97K miles

Replaced brake pads with NAPA ceramics.. wow, what a difference.

Thermostat stuck open last week. In replacing it I found out the Ranger's 2.3s from '01 to '03 had a thermostat which is a one-piece housing, thermostat, temp sensor.. costs between $100 and $200 depending on where you purchase. The '04s and up are able to have the thermostat replaced independently.

The IMRC isn't functioning causing a "check engine" light, but I haven't replaced the valve or the control motor and have run it the last 60,000 without issue.

 

[quickle69]

2001 4.0l sohc 4x4

iv had mine for about a year now and the problems i have encountered so far are:
1. DPFE sensor
2. dome light
3.airbag light
4.door ajar light, but im sure thats the switch failurfe
5.sealed wheel bearings went bad
6.slip yoke cluck during acceleration
7.vacuum hose tearing causing rough idle
8. caliper seized up
9.tailgate latch sticking, broke it off and just replaced

as a new ranger owner reading this post has definitley helped me fix just about very problem iv been having thanks guys

 

[4Nik8]

searched for this but no solution,

2005 Sport 2wd Manual 5 speed 4.10 gears
cruise control does not work, light will not even come on.

I tried pulling up on pedals , checked the fuse , checked for vacuum leak.
non of those revealed any resluts, I can hear air movement under the hood but think its just air going threw intake.

Anyone else?

 

[tobyduck]

on the 4.0, the IAC valve has a black knob like thing on it. Take that sucker off and get some needle nose pliers or something and separate the cap of the knob from the part that connects to the IAC valve. There is like two little circles of cotton that acts as a filter, if there isn't enough air getting through it will start making that noise. Take a cotton ball and pinch off a little bit and replace, simple. But when you go to do that I recommend that you take the whole valve off and get like a q-tip or something and wipe around in the valve itself. If you get any excess liquid in the valve though, it screws it up cause it messes with the electric motor in it somehow

 

[tobyduck]

and there is something wrong with the air conditioning on those trucks that they get stuck on defrost mode. I haven't figured it out yet and can't get my hand on a vacuum diagram for the air conditioning. I know that there is two lines running from the firewall to the engine and the white line isn't hooked up to anything on mine but I can't find a connector for it

 

[nb11]

2003 2.3l 2wd,
Bad water pump at 140,000 mi
Plastic fitting that sends coolant to heater coil broke... That was a mess
Some sort of plug on under side of intake manifold came out, dealer glued it back in (I couldn't find the vacuum leak it caused)
Cruise control doesn't work
Sometimes grinds when shifting from second to third
Once upon a time the throwout bearing in the clutch made horrible noises and clutch stopped working for a couple days... 25,000 mi later no noise and clutch works fine.

 

[derangedranger92]

Well i dont have a newer Ranger but my dad does and i work on it lol so here they are.
1. Spring shackes
2. Upper and lower ball joints
3. Tie rod ends
4. Door ajar switch
5. Rack and pinion
Other than that hes got 210,000 miles on it all original drivetrain and still going strong.

 

[RangerJack]

I just replaced the brake light switch due to having no brakes lights/tail lights and now the back up and license plate marker lights are not working..I have checked fuses and bulbs.

 

[redneck243]

99 V6 3.0 flex 4X4 114,00 on it
1) shift sensor thing on trans
2) new trans....had it in 4x4 in a snow storm for 4hrs and chewed up and spit out reverse
3) rear pinon seal
4) rear speed sensor
5) just took out the guts of 4x4 hubs casue the would not work or lock at random
6) and as with all NY trucks frame rust in rear and has to be fixed so i can get the new hangers on
and all the other stuff brought up here