1994 Cheap Shock Suggestions

[Things2do]

This thread really has two purposes. I'm looking for experience and opinions, but it also gives me somewhere to keep track of what I've found so I don't have to do all of this research again when I don't wind up buying shocks for another six months.

I have a 1994 4.0 extended cab with a camper shell on the bed. I blew out all 4 of my 20+ year old shocks doing trails in Moab last month, and now every time I drive somewhere I become more and more convinced that I need to replace them. I don't think it's as bad as when I ran around without a front sway bar for a month, but it's definitely a little too floaty on the highway. And when testing the shocks it rocks like when you stand on the gunwales of a keelless canoe.

It sees everything from long highway stretches to rock crawling. I bought it to be a cheap 4x4 that could handle fun trails reliably enough to also serving as a daily. And it was $500 and I'd was getting tired of borrowing cars from or catching rides with other people... I don't usually tow or haul a lot of weight, and it isn't a sports car, so I don't mind sacrificing a little on road performance for a little more comfort off road. Right now my suspension is the stock height minus 195k miles of hard use. The rear springs are almost completely flat even with nothing in the bed and depending on how it's sitting in the same relatively flat parking lot I have between 1" and 4" of lean. I also want to replace the front bumper with preferably a winch bumper but at least one with sufficient strength and tow points to get winched out of a bind, which will probably add some weight to the front end. The lack of a suitable front tow point was all that kept me from trying Hell's Gate last month.

I am contemplating a mild suspension lift. Probably only 2 or 3 inches, nothing extreme. I don't want to ruin the highway performance, but I would like it to be a little more capable off road. And I want tires that are a little larger than 235/75R15. At least as big as the 265/75R15 that it left the factory on, but probably something bigger. If my calculations are right my speedometer is already geared for 33s. I feel like the trails that I did in Moab were about the limit of what I'd want to put it through as it is, and the hardest difficulty rating that I did was only a 6.


Mainly I'm looking for cheap, but if there would be an appreciable difference then I wouldn't necessarily mind paying a little more for better ones. Here's what I've found so far in a brief bout of homework procrastination:
The shocks on it now are Gabriel Pro Ryder Premium Gas Truck Shocks. As best as I can tell they were discontinued about 20 years ago.
I know lil_Blue_Ford has mentioned liking his Rough Country N3 shocks recently. It looks like they're about $120 per pair and I'd have to pick over or under about 1.5" of lift.
There are several different listings for Monroe Matic Plus shocks on eBay in the $100 range for the set of all four.
Detroit Axle has an unbranded rear pair for $74. They have no information on them, and they don't have fronts, so I probably wouldn't try them.
Summit has Monroe Restore shocks for $22 each.
Summit also has several other Gabriel and Monroe options for around $25 each.
Bilsteins are supposed to be pretty good, but I don't think I want to spend $400+ on a set of shocks for a truck that I bought for $500. And I'm a college student, I don't really have the money to be buying expensive shocks like that just to be doing it. Ditto for the Skyjacker M95 mentioned in one of the Tech articles that I read on here.
Skyjacker Black Maxes are $60 each, and they currently have a $50 rebate when you buy four. They're 11.5-18.6" front and say 3-4" lift. I found a Jeep TJ forum that liked their ride, but it said that they are prone to developing dead spots in the dampening.
Skyjacker Hydros are $50 and qualify for the same rebate, but the consensus of a thread on a Jeep Wrangler forum was that they're only worthwhile if they are free.
I've read some good things about the Rancho RS9000XL series, triple tube and single adjustable, but those are about $120 each.


The above options only had Rangers or their kin in the lists of what they fit, although I had them filtered by mine so other vehicles might have been suppressed. But then there are the house branded Summit Racing Truck Shocks for $37 each... I couldn't find anything about them on here, or anywhere really, but they are twin tube oil filled shocks. They tend to have several poor reviews, but a lot of those are from people that thought they were too soft in compression and most of those were being put on bigger trucks. The website says they fit everything from a Ranger to an F-350, and of the reviews that mention putting them on Rangers there weren't any complaints.
Someone with a Ranger said SUM-G7755 acts like a 10/90 drag racing shock and that it rides good going across ditches. It's 11.5-18.5" in length range but claims to be for 3-4" of lift.
SUM-G7753 is 10.02-15.69" and says it's for 0-2" of lift. It has a good review from a Ranger with a 2" lift.
SUM-G7756 is 13.54-22.75" and says it's for 5-8" of lift.
SUM-G7751, their only rear option, is 15.57" compressed and 26.07" extended. It says it fits with 0-2" of lift, and for some reason it also says V6 only even though it's a rear shock.

It looks like the stock compressed to extended length ranges on a 4x4 are roughly 10-15" front and 15-25" rear.

The gist of this thread seems to be that Monroes are junk, KYB Gas-A-Justs are alright, and Bilsteins are great. I've heard mixed things about the Rancho RS5000, including from my roommate who put them on both of his Chevy 2500s but has said that he probably won't buy them again. I've been on enough washboards and bouncy roads that I don't think I want it to ride stiff like the one post here said the Ranchos do. I know my roommate's are stiff, but I'm not sure if that's from the shocks or the fact that they're on a 1994 2500 that I'm pretty sure has stiffer than stock leaf springs. https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/threads/best-off-road-and-on-road-shocks.120701/

Ideally I want shocks that will perform well enough everywhere, and the more expensive they are the longer I'd want them to hold up to abuse on washboards, trails, and some of these roads in Colorado. My A/T tires list for $80 each, I got them for $72 each, and they are performing just fine so far. So I'm willing to gamble on cheap stuff that might turn out well as long as long as I don't think it will be intolerable if it turns out to be a bad choice. And while I wouldn't complain if it did, I'm not expecting my 30 year old pickup to ride like a Town Car.

I'm almost tempted to try the Summit branded ones just to see how they work out, the rears and either the G7753 or G7755 fronts. Unless I'm missing something the latter is only an inch and a half longer than stock when fully compressed, so the springs that I already have and maybe a washer stack should be sufficient even though it says at least 3" of lift. And maybe a good bump stop. They would also work if I lift it. But the former may be a little stiffer, which could be useful depending on just how soft the reviewers were talking about.

Edit: I can't write anything short on here, can I?

 

[Blmpkn]

If you frequent places like moab.. or just frequently wheel anywhere.. you don't cheap out on shocks.

Buy something on the same level as Bilsteins or eibachs, always. Dont worry about what you spent on the truck, that's not important. What's important is what it's actually worth and what you do with it.

For perspective.. Your 500 dollar truck out there in the desert would be a 5000 dollar truck here in the salt belt...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ve had a few cheap shocks over the years and they aren’t worth the cost even if they are free. I spent a lot of years buying a mid to high range OEM type in Monroe/Gabriel/Guardian/etc. Used to think that was good enough. Then I couldn’t get the ones I usually got once and got some KYB Gas-A-Just. Noticeable improvement over what I had been buying.

I’ve been DD’ing my Choptop lately because it’s what I have until I get my green Ranger fixed and I’ve been getting highly annoyed at its quirks that weren’t really a priority when it wasn’t being driven a lot, so I’ve been trying to squash issues. My shocks weren’t completely shot, but I started with the KYB on the rear and when it started riding nicer, it got me thinking. The front end needed tamed, badly. Those shocks also weren’t shot, but I decided to try something. After a bunch of looking around I decided to take a stab at things and ordered a set of the Rough Country N3 shocks. Except the listing wasn’t specific so I ordered 2 at the $120 number ($240). I was surprised when they came in and there were two pairs of shocks so one set went back. I paid $60 each for the KYBs ($120 total) and the RC shocks are noticeably heavier duty.

The ride quality. Oh man. Good enough that I decided to spend the rest of the money that I had anticipated spending on the front to buy a set for the rear and take my new KYBs back off. I’m done buying cheap shocks. D.O.N.E. I’m also done buying higher end OEM. From now on, KYB, Rough Country, Rancho, Bilstein, Fox… that kind of stuff is what I’m saving my change for. The Choptop has NEVER rode this nice since I’ve owned it. It may beat any of my junk for ride quality now. I’m going to have to invest in better shocks.

I get being on a tight budget because I am currently on a tight budget. But I’m also willing to chase value. Not every cheap purchase I’ve made has come back to bite me, but most have. If I can’t afford something and I don’t need it immediately, I save until I can get it.

 

[Things2do]

If you frequent places like moab.. or just frequently wheel anywhere.. you don't cheap out on shocks.

Buy something on the same level as Bilsteins or eibachs, always. Dont worry about what you spent on the truck, that's not important. What's important is what it's actually worth and what you do with it.

For perspective.. Your 500 dollar truck out there in the desert would be a 5000 dollar truck here in the salt belt...

It needed work, I've put somewhere around $1500-$2k in parts into it at this point. But if I could get the seats a little cleaner comparable ones to how mine is now somewhat regularly go for upwards of $6k around here (Denver-ish).

I’ve had a few cheap shocks over the years and they aren’t worth the cost even if they are free. I spent a lot of years buying a mid to high range OEM type in Monroe/Gabriel/Guardian/etc. Used to think that was good enough. Then I couldn’t get the ones I usually got once and got some KYB Gas-A-Just. Noticeable improvement over what I had been buying.

I’ve been DD’ing my Choptop lately because it’s what I have until I get my green Ranger fixed and I’ve been getting highly annoyed at its quirks that weren’t really a priority when it wasn’t being driven a lot, so I’ve been trying to squash issues. My shocks weren’t completely shot, but I started with the KYB on the rear and when it started riding nicer, it got me thinking. The front end needed tamed, badly. Those shocks also weren’t shot, but I decided to try something. After a bunch of looking around I decided to take a stab at things and ordered a set of the Rough Country N3 shocks. Except the listing wasn’t specific so I ordered 2 at the $120 number ($240). I was surprised when they came in and there were two pairs of shocks so one set went back. I paid $60 each for the KYBs ($120 total) and the RC shocks are noticeably heavier duty.

The ride quality. Oh man. Good enough that I decided to spend the rest of the money that I had anticipated spending on the front to buy a set for the rear and take my new KYBs back off. I’m done buying cheap shocks. D.O.N.E. I’m also done buying higher end OEM. From now on, KYB, Rough Country, Rancho, Bilstein, Fox… that kind of stuff is what I’m saving my change for. The Choptop has NEVER rode this nice since I’ve owned it. It may beat any of my junk for ride quality now. I’m going to have to invest in better shocks.

I get being on a tight budget because I am currently on a tight budget. But I’m also willing to chase value. Not every cheap purchase I’ve made has come back to bite me, but most have. If I can’t afford something and I don’t need it immediately, I save until I can get it.

Some of being cheap has bit me and some hasn't. My junkyard radiator was 2/3-3/4 plugged but it didn't show up for a few months and that led to several dead ends before I finally figured it out, and I'm on my 3rd NAPA reman starter (I bought the truck without a starter, radiator, or a bunch of other stuff). But my $40 gas tank wound up having a 10k mile <1 year old Motorcraft pump in it, I've been happy with the tires, and my junkyard water pump is holding up so far. I gambled on the water pump since I pulled it with a fan and clutch attached and the set was cheaper than any one of those would have cost new. The tires aren't very good cornering under power on a smooth sheet of ice, but they've handled snow, rocks, wet and dry pavement, and deep sand pretty well.

For the ride quality part, I've done at least a thousand miles on the blown ones and looking back at the videos they were definitely bad by the first big climb I did on the second day. And my family has taken several vehicles to 200k or 300k on the original suspension. So I'm not exactly used to nice riding vehicles, and I'm young enough to not care too much yet. But I would like a little more padding in the driver's seat. It's completely worn out.



Is there any truth to the Rancho RS5000 riding "really stiff," and if so would that be too stiff for rough dirt roads and wheeling and whatnot? I also enjoy hitting speed bumps at 20 or 30 showing off for my roommate that has to crawl over them in his 2500s. The guy that said that had an FX4 Level 2 so his front end weight should be pretty comparable to mine.
Someone has a "new" pair of RS55136 out of the box listed on Marketplace near me for $50. Rancho says they are for the front on Rangers with a 2.5" lift, but I just so happen to already have a pair of Skyjacker 132XS coils and my front axle needs work anyway so I could do that and put the more adjustable camber bushings in when I get around to all of that. The differential leaks now and at least one ball joint was a little loose even before the Moab trip.

Rancho RS5000X RS55136 Suspension Shock Absorber

Rancho® Performance Suspension & Shocks is a leader in suspension and shock technologies and products for trucks, SUVs, Jeeps and other vehicles. Every Rancho shock absorber, suspension system and accessory is engineered to exacting detail.

www.gorancho.com

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ve never run Rancho shocks so I can’t speak to them. I have noticed that with these Rough Country N3 shocks some bumps I used to have to slow for I can blow over like nothing now and some I still have to go slow.

My seats in the Choptop need new padding.

I’m not exactly old, but I do appreciate some comforts in a rig.

 

[Blmpkn]

It needed work, I've put somewhere around $1500-$2k in parts into it at this point. But if I could get the seats a little cleaner comparable ones to how mine is now somewhat regularly go for upwards of $6k around here (Denver-ish).


Some of being cheap has bit me and some hasn't. My junkyard radiator was 2/3-3/4 plugged but it didn't show up for a few months and that led to several dead ends before I finally figured it out, and I'm on my 3rd NAPA reman starter (I bought the truck without a starter, radiator, or a bunch of other stuff). But my $40 gas tank wound up having a 10k mile <1 year old Motorcraft pump in it, I've been happy with the tires, and my junkyard water pump is holding up so far. I gambled on the water pump since I pulled it with a fan and clutch attached and the set was cheaper than any one of those would have cost new. The tires aren't very good cornering under power on a smooth sheet of ice, but they've handled snow, rocks, wet and dry pavement, and deep sand pretty well.

For the ride quality part, I've done at least a thousand miles on the blown ones and looking back at the videos they were definitely bad by the first big climb I did on the second day. And my family has taken several vehicles to 200k or 300k on the original suspension. So I'm not exactly used to nice riding vehicles, and I'm young enough to not care too much yet. But I would like a little more padding in the driver's seat. It's completely worn out.



Is there any truth to the Rancho RS5000 riding "really stiff," and if so would that be too stiff for rough dirt roads and wheeling and whatnot? I also enjoy hitting speed bumps at 20 or 30 showing off for my roommate that has to crawl over them in his 2500s. The guy that said that had an FX4 Level 2 so his front end weight should be pretty comparable to mine.
Someone has a "new" pair of RS55136 out of the box listed on Marketplace near me for $50. Rancho says they are for the front on Rangers with a 2.5" lift, but I just so happen to already have a pair of Skyjacker 132XS coils and my front axle needs work anyway so I could do that and put the more adjustable camber bushings in when I get around to all of that. The differential leaks now and at least one ball joint was a little loose even before the Moab trip.

Rancho RS5000X RS55136 Suspension Shock Absorber

Rancho® Performance Suspension & Shocks is a leader in suspension and shock technologies and products for trucks, SUVs, Jeeps and other vehicles. Every Rancho shock absorber, suspension system and accessory is engineered to exacting detail.

www.gorancho.com

Shocks valved in a manner where they're 'stiff' are generally for higher speed shenanigans. Loosey goosey shocks that allow for all the body roll in the world while cornering and nose-dive when stepping on the brakes and stuff are aimed at more technical types of wheeling where the speeds are slow(er) and ease of articulation is paramount.

 

[Things2do]

I appreciate comforts, but I'm not always willing to pay for them. And girls only talk to me when they need something fixed so I don't have to worry about it being comfortable for dates.

Shocks valved in a manner where they're 'stiff' are generally for higher speed shenanigans. Loosey goosey shocks that allow for all the body roll in the world while cornering and nose-dive when stepping on the brakes and stuff are aimed at more technical types of wheeling where the speeds are slow(er) and ease of articulation is paramount.

To be honest I'd never really thought through shocks and the valving and the responses to different speeds and scenarios before. I was thinking more along the lines of stiffer and softer springs and how those would act, but after stopping and thinking about it that makes sense. I do quite a bit of technical stuff for a stock Ranger, but I also do a lot of higher speed stuff when I can.


So much for the cheap Ranchos. I've seen my fair share of Marketplace stuff, but this was a first. There were 7 minutes between his first two messages and his last one. I just went through my history out of curiosity, so I can confidently say that I've never messaged that guy about anything before.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

So much for the cheap Ranchos. I've seen my fair share of Marketplace stuff, but this was a first. There were 7 minutes between his first two messages and his last one. I just went through my history out of curiosity, so I can confidently say that I've never messaged that guy about anything before.

View attachment 141751

Maybe you found my post? I just tossed a set of Rancho 5K's on my rear axle with new rear HD springs, and in comparison the ride is quite different. I have to say, though, after the first week of driving on them they've settled in and I do like them. They just aren't the car-soft ride I thought they'd be, and that's just my lack of experience.

 

[Blmpkn]

I appreciate comforts, but I'm not always willing to pay for them. And girls only talk to me when they need something fixed so I don't have to worry about it being comfortable for dates.


To be honest I'd never really thought through shocks and the valving and the responses to different speeds and scenarios before. I was thinking more along the lines of stiffer and softer springs and how those would act, but after stopping and thinking about it that makes sense. I do quite a bit of technical stuff for a stock Ranger, but I also do a lot of higher speed stuff when I can.


So much for the cheap Ranchos. I've seen my fair share of Marketplace stuff, but this was a first. There were 7 minutes between his first two messages and his last one. I just went through my history out of curiosity, so I can confidently say that I've never messaged that guy about anything before.

View attachment 141751

Having a good understanding about all the different ways shocks can be engineered to work will pay dividends when your out there trying to have a good time.

Some (most) are valved in a linear fashion.. they'll have the same level of damping/rebound resistance throughout the entire stroke of the shock. These are as close to a one-size-fits-all do it all general purpose shock as you can get. Jack of all trades, but Master of none. Anyone with a modest trail rig that just likes to putt along and enjoy the scenery will go for linear shocks.. probably most rock crawlers as well.

Progressive valved shocks are easiest to compress & extend while operating at low piston speeds.. but will get meaningfully stiffer the faster you make the suspension cycle. These are good for someone who wants to retain a comfortable ride while ON the road.. but wants to really hammer along while off-road and minimize the chances of bottoming out.

Digressive shocks are the opposite.. theyll be at their stiffest at low piston speeds, but become meaningfully softer the quicker you make the shock cycle. Digressives are for the most part a performance roadcar/racecar thing... But they can also work really well when they're under a heavily loaded overlanding rig.

The purpose of springs is simply to support the weight of the vehicle.. but it's really important for your spring rate to "match" the valving of the shocks. Being under-damped or over-damped with relation to spring rate is gonna lead to a shit ride and poor handling characteristics.

Ever notice how just about every lowered VW or Honda Civic bounces like a MF every time they hit a little crack in the road? Most of the time it's not because their shocks are blown... It's because their lowering springs are MUCH stiffer than the factory springs (to help minimize bottoming out with the decreased ride height)... But they Installed the springs onto their stock struts which are NOT valved to properly dampen a spring that heavy.. so bounce bounce bounce they go. These folks really need to do things the right way and at least buy some single adjustable shocks where they can slow down the rate of rebound. Double adjustables would be ideal.. but single adjustables would at least get rid of the bounce.


Unfortunately.... All the progressive/digressive shocks that are worth buying are going to cost you more than it seems like you want to spend. A QUALITY set of linear shocks like 'steins or 'bachs will absolutely give you the best performance you can get while lightening your wallet the least.

Have you heard of hydraulic bump stops? Most of those aren't exactly cheap either... But they're a bit of a cheat code for dudes who wanna go a bit faster offroad but don't wanna break the bank on fancy progressive shocks or longer travel suspension setups. Instead of the simple caveman status rubber stumps you currently have for bump stops.. hydraulic stops act as a last minute/deep travel progressive shock of sorts. Most of them have 1.5" to 2" of travel that get.. well.. progressively stiffer the more you squish them before they themselves hit bottom.

As far as spring rates.... This is where I'm gonna be the least help lol.. it's late and I'm getting really tired.. brains barely firing by this point.

Dedicated crawler rigs will generally run the softest springs they can get away with simply because they will allow for the easiest articulation.

Performance street/race cars will for the most part want springs stiff enough to rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. Less body roll, less brake dive.. they want their rig PLANTED as firmly as possible.

As far as blasting through the desert... You're gonna need to find a rate that balances being able to articulate as much as possible but also resist bottoming as much as possible..

 

[Blmpkn]

I appreciate comforts, but I'm not always willing to pay for them. And girls only talk to me when they need something fixed so I don't have to worry about it being comfortable for dates.

For your best chance of success... Don't worry about how comfy your date is while she's riding shotgun in your desert rig.

If she don't like it, she ain't the one for you dawg.

The one thats totally into it and wants to go wheeling with you all the time... That's the one youll never have to give half your stuff too because that's a lifetime marriage in the making.

 

[Things2do]

Maybe you found my post? I just tossed a set of Rancho 5K's on my rear axle with new rear HD springs, and in comparison the ride is quite different. I have to say, though, after the first week of driving on them they've settled in and I do like them. They just aren't the car-soft ride I thought they'd be, and that's just my lack of experience.

I hadn't read your thread since the Palantir horse trackers post, but I just went and got caught up on it. A little firmer than it is now might not be a bad thing but I do plan on doing more wheeling and road tripping than heavy towing or hauling with it. I have several friends with 3/4 tons and 8' beds that I can borrow when I need more load capacity.

Having a good understanding about all the different ways shocks can be engineered to work will pay dividends when your out there trying to have a good time.

Some (most) are valved in a linear fashion.. they'll have the same level of damping/rebound resistance throughout the entire stroke of the shock. These are as close to a one-size-fits-all do it all general purpose shock as you can get. Jack of all trades, but Master of none. Anyone with a modest trail rig that just likes to putt along and enjoy the scenery will go for linear shocks.. probably most rock crawlers as well.

Progressive valved shocks are easiest to compress & extend while operating at low piston speeds.. but will get meaningfully stiffer the faster you make the suspension cycle. These are good for someone who wants to retain a comfortable ride while ON the road.. but wants to really hammer along while off-road and minimize the chances of bottoming out.

Digressive shocks are the opposite.. theyll be at their stiffest at low piston speeds, but become meaningfully softer the quicker you make the shock cycle. Digressives are for the most part a performance roadcar/racecar thing... But they can also work really well when they're under a heavily loaded overlanding rig.

The purpose of springs is simply to support the weight of the vehicle.. but it's really important for your spring rate to "match" the valving of the shocks. Being under-damped or over-damped with relation to spring rate is gonna lead to a shit ride and poor handling characteristics.

Ever notice how just about every lowered VW or Honda Civic bounces like a MF every time they hit a little crack in the road? Most of the time it's not because their shocks are blown... It's because their lowering springs are MUCH stiffer than the factory springs (to help minimize bottoming out with the decreased ride height)... But they Installed the springs onto their stock struts which are NOT valved to properly dampen a spring that heavy.. so bounce bounce bounce they go. These folks really need to do things the right way and at least buy some single adjustable shocks where they can slow down the rate of rebound. Double adjustables would be ideal.. but single adjustables would at least get rid of the bounce.


Unfortunately.... All the progressive/digressive shocks that are worth buying are going to cost you more than it seems like you want to spend. A QUALITY set of linear shocks like 'steins or 'bachs will absolutely give you the best performance you can get while lightening your wallet the least.

Have you heard of hydraulic bump stops? Most of those aren't exactly cheap either... But they're a bit of a cheat code for dudes who wanna go a bit faster offroad but don't wanna break the bank on fancy progressive shocks or longer travel suspension setups. Instead of the simple caveman status rubber stumps you currently have for bump stops.. hydraulic stops act as a last minute/deep travel progressive shock of sorts. Most of them have 1.5" to 2" of travel that get.. well.. progressively stiffer the more you squish them before they themselves hit bottom.

As far as spring rates.... This is where I'm gonna be the least help lol.. it's late and I'm getting really tired.. brains barely firing by this point.

Dedicated crawler rigs will generally run the softest springs they can get away with simply because they will allow for the easiest articulation.

Performance street/race cars will for the most part want springs stiff enough to rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. Less body roll, less brake dive.. they want their rig PLANTED as firmly as possible.

As far as blasting through the desert... You're gonna need to find a rate that balances being able to articulate as much as possible but also resist bottoming as much as possible..

That all makes sense. Although I always figured that the lowered imports rode that way because A: it was "cool" and B: they didn't have any room left for suspension travel before bottoming out.
I don't do a lot of the stereotypical overlanding, most of my trips like that are closer to driving around with backpacking equipment than the whole overlanding scene.
I know some people with hydraulic bump stops.

Speaking of backpacking with a vehicle... Been there, done that. This is how a friend of mine's LJ hauled my stuff back from Moab to Denver a couple of years ago.

For your best chance of success... Don't worry about how comfy your date is while she's riding shotgun in your desert rig.

If she don't like it, she ain't the one for you dawg.

The one thats totally into it and wants to go wheeling with you all the time... That's the one youll never have to give half your stuff too because that's a lifetime marriage in the making.

Not wanting to ride around in the desert wouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker. My dad loves hiking around on slickrock and would move to the desert if he could, but my mom doesn't like being there more than every once in a while. My dad also likes hiking a lot further and on rougher trails than she does. And they've been married for over 40 years.