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1994 2WD Brakes Locking Up at any speed at most any pressure. Both the ABS and Brake light are on. What could be causing this.


caliskier

Active Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2007
Messages
31
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Hi All,

The title tells the story. Let me discuss break pressure on a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being the heaviest pressure. When I apply the brakes lightly, at a 1, they don't lock up, but at a 2, for say a normal stop it locks up and skids. Anything 3-5 and its the same result, skids under any pressure but very light. Both the ABS and Brake dash lights are on, and it seams like its the front brakes only, master cylinder is full of brake fluid.

This is a 2WD 1994 Mazda B3000 / Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 extended cab with manual transmission

Any thoughts on what this might be?
 
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Looks as tho there is not enough clearance between the master piston & the pushrod on the front side of the booster. This can cause a *high* pedal that when pressed then causes the brakes to react instantaneously & over aggressively. You make any changes to the booster?
 
Last edited:
Looks as tho there is not enough clearance between the master piston & the pushrod on the front side of the booster. This can cause a *high* pedal that when pressed then causes the brakes to react instantaneously & over aggressively. You make any changes to the booster?
No, never. I replaced the ABS hydraulic assembly unit under the middle of the truck 3 or 4 years ago,
 
Have you checked, cleaned and lubed your caliper slide pins?
They might be sticking.

Just a thought for your consideration.

-Jazzer
 
Have you checked, cleaned and lubed your caliper slide pins?
They might be sticking.

Just a thought for your consideration.

-Jazzer
No, I have not checked that yet, is it common?
 
What would cause both lights to come on, is there a way to check a code or something?
 
Mine has been that way since I’ve owned it, not the touchy brakes, but both of those lights being on. I changed the rear axle abs sensor but it did nothing. Brakes act like normal and stop fine, just have the lights on all the time
 
As your calipers squeeze the brake pads together on the rotor, they ride on the slide pins. If the slide pins are sticky or corroded, the brakes hydraulic pressure may overcome the initial resistance but freeze when contacting the rotor.

You can jack up a front tire, apply the brake pedal firmly, then check the wheel for resistance to spinning. There should be a little, not a lot.

It may also be a hydraulic problem (booster or master cylinder), but this test will check the caliper response, and doesn’t explain the ABS light coming on. That could be your ABS module or sensor. Also make sure your parking brake is completely released and see if the ‘brake’ light goes out.

www.holsteinparts.com/9-things-check-abs-brake-light/

-Jazzer
 
No, never. I replaced the ABS hydraulic assembly unit under the middle of the truck 3 or 4 years ago,

Is the situation worse when everything is warmed up or are the brakes touchy even when all are cold?
 
Is this something that just started happening?
Did those 2 lights come on at the same time the brakes started grabbing?
Is it only the rear brakes grabbing? I suspect it is. If so, check for rear axle lube leaking onto the shoes.
 
Is this something that just started happening?
Did those 2 lights come on at the same time the brakes started grabbing?
Is it only the rear brakes grabbing? I suspect it is. If so, check for rear axle lube leaking onto the shoes.

It feels like it is only the front breaks but I can have someone watch me drive and see which locks up.

The lights come on at the same time and they started reciently
 
I would suspect rear brake locking up... not the front.

Have you checked the brake fluid... inspected the rear brakes?

These trucks are known for the rear brakes locking up.
 
Finally got around to driving the car. Its the left rear tire that locks up and both lights (ABS and Brake) are on. actually it seamed to perform a lot better than it did a few months ago, its been sitting. I have another car I can drive.
 
As suggested, pull that wheel & drum off, look closely for fluid contamination over the shoes, suspect either the wheel cylinder or the axle seal. The drum more than likely will have a lip of corrosion built up on the very outer edge that will need to be removed so the drum can be easily slipped back into place. The park brake lamp being on could be the result of an improperly adjusted (loose) park brake cable. One applies the park brake, releases it, there is not enough tension in the cable to return the park lever to *at rest*.
 

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