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1993 Splash build


When I got my square tube adapters they threaded like they were supposed to, super easy. Were both of them hard to thread?

SVT
 
The one was hard to thread the last half of the way through. It was as if the thread wasnt cut deep enough. It threaded in by hand the first half. The second one threaded in 3/4 of the way by hand and the rest was done w/ a pipe wrench.
 
Next time use a pipe or bar inserted through the joint to turn instead of using a wrench that can scare ut up...

SVT
 
i noticed that when i threaded one of my JJ's in right after welding, it was really hard to get it to go in. like SVT advised, i used a 1/2" piece of rebar to turn the joint. on the second, i let it cool down completely and i can turn it in by hand. then on my rod ends for my steering/track bar, i did the same thing and havent had problems with them.
 
When you weld tube adapters, whether it be square or round, thread the joint in all the way (I prefer at least one thread past the end), this will help dissipate heat away from the adapter's threads helping with preventing warpage. When I did it this way I had no problems with inserting the joint both before and after welding :icon_thumby:

SVT
 
Are you saying to weld in the bungs WITH the joint in place? Most places will tell you to NOT put anything in the joints when welding them...
 
You are correct, most places tell you not to as there is a chance of welding the joint to the adapter if you get close to the joint when welding...

SVT
 
SVT, I can see where that would have made it easier. Thanks for the tips guys.
 
Are you saying to weld in the bungs WITH the joint in place? Most places will tell you to NOT put anything in the joints when welding them...

this, i just assumed i shouldn't have the joints in while welding them up. i can see where the JJ's would probably be fine. but i was worried i'd melt or warp the derlin or plastic or whatever is inside the 3/4" rod ends i used.
 
Unless you are welding right where the plastic is, or at a way too hot of a setting, the bushings won't melt, there's a lot of the heat being dissipated before it reaches the bushing...

SVT
 
I guess this is the main reason I'm on here. It's great to have people like you guys that give tips and trade information. I wouldnt be on here if I wasnt learning something every day.
 
So, Im still researching coil springs. What would be typically better for the ranger w/ ttb: Progressive rate (James Duff 3.5" coils are 175 ppi - 250 ppi) or the BC Bronco linear rate Coils? (right around 275-282 ppi )
 
With the ttb, I would go with the higher spring rate unless the duff coils are super long.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Thanks dude. That's what I was thinking. Just needed a little "push" is all. Will be ordering them otmorrow
 

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