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1993 Ford Ranger Cranks but does not start


yeah I tried the Schrader valve trying to see if i could purge the air out. each time it barley dribbled out. Looks like I will be pulling the bed to replace the fuel pump. I pretty much only have myself to blame because I let it sit so long with gas in it and no stabilizer. I was hoping that wouldn't be the case since I can hear the pump prime. But first I will try the fuel filter.
quick update. I replaced the fuel filter and I definitely have more pressure at the fuel rail (no gauge so I am not sure I have enough). So I have spark and fuel but still no start. Now I am wondering if I have the timing off?
 
quick update. I replaced the fuel filter and I definitely have more pressure at the fuel rail (no gauge so I am not sure I have enough). So I have spark and fuel but still no start. Now I am wondering if I have the timing off?
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quick update. I replaced the fuel filter and I definitely have more pressure at the fuel rail (no gauge so I am not sure I have enough). So I have spark and fuel but still no start. Now I am wondering if I have the timing off?
How are you supposed to get to that distributor hold down bolt. all the distributor wrenches I find are the wrong size. my bolt is 10mm
I am about to part this thing out
 
Yes, in a 2.9l or 3.0l it was called the TFI(Thick Film Ignition) spark module
In a 2.3l it was called an ICM(Ignition Control Module) spark module
In a 4.0l it was EDIS-6, lol
But ICM could be a generic term for any electronic spark unit

Every one will know what you mean using ICM, as long as you include year and engine size

In 1995 and up no more "ICMs", newer larger computer ran fuel AND spark both


You have an A4LD automatic, it only has 2 solenoids, Torque converter lock(TCC) solenoid and 3/4 shift solenoid

1st, 2nd and 3rd shifting is base on ATF fluid pressure and physical RPMs, no computer control, only 4th(overdrive) uses the 3/4 shift solenoid
So wouldn't be connected to spark system issues
Okay update! I got my distributor early! And gotnit changed out and hopefully got the timing right 🤞🏼. It Turned on no problem!! I also changed the fuel filter and oil and oil filter. So it turns on and runs! BUTTT now while im driving i put the pedal to the metal and its very very slow until it gets to around 20mph then picks up almost like if its not registering that im slamming on the gas until 2nd gear? Any insight on that new problem? And RonD thank you bro for real idk what else to say u are a life saver every thing u have said has been 100% on point!
 
Hey man i had the same problem! Eveyone said the bolt was 1/2 inch mine was also 10mm so what i did was i got a swivel socket attachment and an extension and i was able to get the distributor out with a rachet (note: you will have little room but its possible!). The distributor wrenches i bought were useless but go to harbor freight if you have one and get the swivel/wiggle/wobble socket whatever they call it.
 
Good work (y)

I assume you fine tuned spark timing with a timing light and SPOUT disconnected
Did you remember to plug back in the SPOUT Connector?

SPOUT is the "vacuum advance"(from computer) in a TFI system, so engine response to acceleration would be slow unless spark timing changed with load
TFI(ICMs) can only do RPM spark advance, not load advance since they have no connection to throttle or vacuum levels, only the computer does

If you haven't done base spark timing yet then do it now



A Fuel mix doesn't ignite instantly
Spark starts the ignition process but it takes time to get the full explosive force that pushes the piston down and adds power to the crank
You want that full explosive force to happen when piston is 5 to 10deg After TDC
Earlier than 5deg and there is not enough leverage, most of the force is absorb by connecting rod, after 10deg the chamber area, piston and head area, is getting too large so explosion has too much room to expand so less power added

So spark happens Before TDC to get full explosive force After TDC
And then there is RPMs
Obviously the time it takes for crank to rotate from 10deg BTDC to 10deg ATDC changes with RPMs
Higher RPMs require the spark to happen at 20deg BTDC up to 35deg BTDC to get full explosive force at 5-10deg ATDC

This is just Math and TFI(ICU) module can easily do this, in the old days distributors had springs and weights to do RPM spark advance

The "monkey in the wrench" is fuel mix ignition time
Regular 14.7:1 fuel mix has a set burn time, the time it takes from spark to full explosive force
Richer fuel mix BURNS FASTER, and its based on how rich the mix is, no set "time"

This is where Load Advance comes in
Vacuum advance was used for many many years
At idle Vacuum would hold spark advance at say 20deg BTDC, when you stepped on the gas vacuum drops and so would spark timing, so say to 12deg BTDC so rich mix from "stepping on the gas" could have its faster burn time and explosive force was still between 5-10deg ATDC

With electronic spark systems the same is done by the engine computer because it has throttle sensor and its controlling fuel mix so knows exactly how rich the mix is

This is NOT a definitive explanation of spark systems, lol, just a general review of whats happening and whats needed
 
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