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1988 B2 Conversion using 2000 Explorer 302


Awesome news. Everytime I start thinking costs are gonna run away on me, you come as the bearer of good news. I have planned to cut the clip all along as the shell is going to be scrapped anyhow.

Ya know I haven't even bothered looking at the headers on the donor and don't know off hand if they are cast or modular... I suspect finding a decent set of cast stock headers may be a bit challenging up with all the sale and snow. I'll brace for the bad news and hope when I get home I see lots of nasty rust on a set of 13 year old cast iron headers.
 
I'm running a set of the tubular explorer manifolds, came with my 5.0 I got, and they fit perfectly. As said the.manifolds do flow better and can be ported a bit for better flow. Only thing I don't like about the tubular ones is they aren't as spark plug wire friendly, but just bought header wrap and will be wrapping the header where the wire chord close or in contact with my current wires then I will be putting my new Ford racing 9mm wires (another freebie) on.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
I'm running a set of the tubular explorer manifolds, came with my 5.0 I got, and they fit perfectly. As said the.manifolds do flow better and can be ported a bit for better flow. Only thing I don't like about the tubular ones is they aren't as spark plug wire friendly, but just bought header wrap and will be wrapping the header where the wire chord close or in contact with my current wires then I will be putting my new Ford racing 9mm wires (another freebie) on.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
Difference in how well the exhaust fits with the wires is due to the different head designs, Dave (OP) is using the "P" heads that the manifolds were designed for. If you have seen the insides of the tube headers, you'd toss them. Many have used 90 Deg or other angles on the plug boots for more clearance.
Other Dave
 
I'm in the donor now... starting with trans and the first thing I noticed was tubular headers. Oh well, on the prowl for a cast set.

I have one point of contention, I think I'm the "other Dave"... you've been around a while.

I'll be checking the trans harness and engine harness today along with the CPS... if they're good I'll shoot ya an email.

Hope you don't get pounded up there GB... saw a forecast for 8"+. Ouch... I'm probably looking at 4-5...

The Real Other Dave
 
There are several headers on E-Bay but cheaper from Rock-Auto, think the TRS discount is still available with the latest discount code. Runs about $107 for the pair new with some hardware.
Dave of the Nord
 
Update 1...

Get under the damn thing and it turns out this thing is a 4wd Explorer. I'm guessing two owners ago, it was striped it down and made to look and run like a 2wd. They even threw a new console trim piece (without the 4wd control) on it. I never got under it and the previous was a 20 year old single mom that no doubt got took to the cleaners on it.

Anyhow, I've got the rear drive shaft out, transfer case dropped, the transmission harness off (it looks good DOTN), transmission cross member out and now I'm pulling the driver side exhaust. I am on of all things the damn 2-bolt start. The previous owner, or some monkey mechanic, rounded off the top mounting bolt.

Are there any tips to rolling the engine over to gain access to all of TC bolts?
 
The 5.0 ex came either 2wd or awd, no dash mounted switch was available. Since your cutting the front clip off, you can pull the motor and trans together. I've pulled motor, trans, and tcase all at once. I've also pulled them with exhaust all the way to the tcase to trans mounting location...

SVT
 
Well, you were going to get another trans anyway. Think you're learning about the intelligence of some of the city people there. I did some digging on your spedo problem. Asked another well known V-8 expert and he said a lot of the Mustangs and other earlier Fords used the VSS from the trans for cruise control at the ECU and a cable for the spedo. Bunch of info:
He can use the VSS from a Cruise Control equipped Fox body, or a '92-ish Ranger.
They had a VSS, with the wiring, and the cable bolted to that.

Any Mustang transmission 98 and older will drive a speedometer cable as long as the VSS unit that you use doesn't have the hole for the speedometer cable plugged up. Again, the 94-98 VSS units are plugged where the cable attaches.

Prior to the addition of mass air, the only EFI cars to use a VSS were cars equipt with cruise control. The mass air cars use the VSS in their programming. You need a speedo cable for a car with cruise and/or from a mass air car (example would be an 89-93). Just make sure you specify whether its an automatic or 5 speed as the cable lengths differ slightly because of how they were ran. AOD cars ran the cable through the hole that the clutch cable would go through on a 5 speed cars. The 5 speed cars ran the cable through a smaller hole that is behind the plenum towards the center of the firewall. There is a rubber plug in this hole on an AOD car.
Dave of the Nord
 
You're right... learning a lot. I didn't know they were either 2wd or AWD in 2000... I know now!

I have considered pulling the entire driveline out at once but I do not have the clearance in my relatively small, residential two-car garage so I am stuck parting the trans and engine.

I am really struggling with this dang starter... both bolts looked liked button heads. I got the lower but the top one ain't budging. I pulled the "TC cover plate" off and was able to get to one of the converter nuts but I can't for the life of me figure out how to roll this thing over to get to the other three. Any pointers?

I expected pain and aggravation and I'm getting it but I ain't discouraged... I'm in no hurry, just want to do this thing right.
 
So I thinking the nut that holds the balancer on is a 19mm...??? I'm done for the night and I'll be cutting the head off the top starter bolt tomorrow and then the tranny should come out from there pretty easily...
 
Dave, the socket required for the dampener is a 15/16". All the internals and threads into the block are still SAE.
Dave of the Nord
 
Okay... after a few hiccups the trans is out and on my garage floor. The harness looks good and the I expect the toughest part of the tear down is behind me. I scoped the engine out and it looks pretty straight forward actually. I appreciate all the help to this point. I plan on yanking the engine a little later in the week. I have some parts on order and once I have the engine in the stand, I'll rebuild it and then jump into the B2. Thanks again and stay tuned if you are interested... if not, at least drive by once in a while to offer your help - I know I'll need it!
 
rebuild? define that. just sealin er up for a few bux is ideal....




i dont think i would properly rebuild a explorer motor if i could find a good running flex 5.3 gm powertrain with pcm and harness for 2500 bux.:dunno:


i love fords, please dont think its some closet gm worship...but low mile cheap ls type replacements will be in stock for many years to come. once fitted its just simple swap outs. getting the equivalent power from an explorer system along with the efficiency is not an easy task.


making your core support removable on the b2 is also a best practice imo...


i find it worth the effort in any case.
 
Thanks for the input BW. My oldest son just turned 18 and this is his truck. The truck is in exceptional condition, nearly fully restored to stock and it runs like a champ so the V8 conversion is more of a pet project for me, him and his 17 year old brother.

I picked the donor up cheap and being neither of my sons have ever been into an engine, I figure this is a great opportunity for them to get their hands dirty and learn a little something. For me, well I plan to take away quite a bit from the process but the moral of the story is, I'm in no hurry to make this happen and we have plenty of time having four other vehicles that are normally used as daily drivers.

Removable core support... I likely do it if it comes to that. Thanks!
 

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