1987 Ranger Super cab Fuel Pump Problem

[fyre82]

Just for grins, check the rectangular grey 6 wire connections on the left fenderjust forward of the firewall.
This supplies power to the looms that go over the engine to power the pumps and provide voltage to the distributor module etc.

This connection should lay just below the brake master. There are 8 sockets on it but only 6 used.

I say this because that connection was causing me fits with voltage loss, no start and bad running conditions. I repinned a set and no more issues. Truck starts as it did, idles correctly at all temperatures and has posed no issues since I fixed it.

It was a strange issue and similar to what you are experiencing.
My 2 cents . . .

Rich

 

[txrangr1988]

Ok sorry about the lengthy time away. The truck isnt fixed yet and its actually gotten worse. So here is what I have done: I ran a continuity check on the fuel pump relay ground to pcm and it has checked good. I did however find the relay base cracked so I robbed one off of a truck in the graveyard at home and spliced it in and everything rechecked good on the continuity check.

So the new problem is when I charged the battery to about 12.76 volts, I turned the key to run and I didn't get any precheck lights or anything. When the key was inserted into the ignition the door chime came on but when going to start nothing happens no fuel pump prime not even the starter tryin to turn the truck over. However half way from run to start the door chime starts to try to ring out and if you hold it in that position it will have a tone coming out like the door chime.

Everyone that I have talked to around here is saying it could be in the ignition switch itself.

HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[fyre82]

Sounds like the switch to me.
Grab another one if you have it and test that way.

That switch will be the key portion, they come out by pushing a small button and it slides out, (or is supposed to). The key switch is only a few dollars to replace.

I would suggest that you check all of the connections on the column for
corrosion, burning etc. While you are there check your headlight/turn connections as well.

If you end up needing the part that the key switch fits into on the column
I have that readilly at hand.

Good Luck

Rich

 

[robertc1024]

My ignition switch was wonky too. I pulled the plastic off of the steering column and there were four little tabs on the bottom of the switch that fold in and hold the thing together. I took a hammer and a punch and gently tightened them all up. Voila - no more problems.

 

[txrangr1988]

Ok so I replaced the electrical portion of the switch and she wants to fire up now. But however still no fuel pump prime or pre check lights. I am just going to put it on a switch and say the hell with it. I hot wired the pump today and she fired right up. Still thinking maybe a PCM but dont want to shell out the 160 for it on a whim.

 

[mrfishjosh]

I've been having a similar problem, so any suggestions would be super helpful. I tested everything up to the 2 relays, came back good. on the connector with the 2 yellow wires and the red wire, (when the relay is energized, it connects the yellows to the red) when I used a test light, hooked the light to the 12+ side of the battery, the red wire lights up as a ground with the IGN in RUN. the initial issue: pulled into the driveway, truck was dead. found that the fuse link from the "hot all the time" side of the starter relay, that runs to one of the 2 yellow wires in that connector was blown. manually overrided that and it ran great for 30 45 mins in the driveway. next day, didn't make it out of the driveway till it melted all the way through my spliceing connector. so i added an inline fuse holder, went through a 30A instantly. i pulled the computer out thinking it was the computer. still grounded. I have the wiring diagrams from ALLDATA, which shows that red wire goes to pretty much everything under the sun. Any suggestions?

Info on the rig: '88 ranger 2.9L M/T 2WD extended cab single tank EEC-IV 'mputer

 

[txrangr1988]

Got it fixed!!!!

Well got her to fire up finally. I ended up yanking an ECM out of a 1987 F-150 that most of the ECM numbers matched just to try it out. I had the people at my pull a part in Charlotte NC run the P/N and these said it should work. As soon as I slaved it in she fired right up no problems. So next step is to just order the correct ECM from Rock Auto.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for posting your fix.

Richard