1983 2.8l Ranger - Accidentally twisted what I believe is the oil cooler line


Joined
Apr 18, 2025
Messages
6
Points
1
City
Durham, NC
Vehicle Year
1983
Transmission
Automatic
I'm trying to take out the radiator on my 1983 2.8l v6 ranger to give it a good clean and was taking off the top oil cooler line. I initially twisted the nut not thinking that the line was still connected and was going to twist. I twisted it a bit and then stopped, I then tried to undo the nut while applying reverse pressure on the nut on the end of the line. I thought i was getting it but it was just my wrench slipping on the line nut. Anywho, twisted the line enough and now there's a hole. Anyone know a good fix or do I just need to replace the whole line? And how the heck do I get this off, am I doing something wrong with the 2 wrench approach or is it just stuck?
1983 2.8l Ranger - Accidentally twisted what I believe is the oil cooler line
 
You can either replace the whole hard line (preferred repair), or cut the twisted parts out and bridge the gap with a coupler or simply rubber transmission hose and clamps. There should be coupler fittings available, which would require flaring the newly-cut ends; but there's not much left to work with on the radiator side.

If you cut and square the ends, you'll want to keep any metal shavings out of the lines. You could disconnect both "other ends" and flush the line pieces, or you could insert a Q-tip into the line before making the squaring cut, then pull it out with needle nose pliers after making the cut. Not sure if you've got room for a tubing cutter, and if you saw it you definitely want to want prevent shavings from getting into the lines.

You always want to use the "2-wrench" method on a flare fitting, and flare nut wrenches would be much better to use than regular wrenches. Yours may indeed be "stuck-STUCK".
 
Appreciate the response. I thought about cutting it but didn't even consider the metal shavings contaminating the line. The replacement looks a bit difficult with how tight the spacing is but may be for the best since the end piece may not have any good edge to grab with the wrench anymore.
 
There should be a small space between that nut and tube that would be visible from the outside. I know it doesn't help now, but blowing those out really well with brake cleaner then a shot of your favorite penetrating oil might have prevented it...
 

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