13in cobra r brakes

[BOOMstick199]

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[2004xlmiller]

28 or 31 spline?

 

[Mac]

Front or rear?
Dave

 

[Mudhound]

Most likely the FRONT ones, I'd wager.... The rear brakes are pretty simple, no kit needed....

 

[97-cobra/ranger]

All mustang rear disc brakes are the same. 96-04 cobras have the 13" front rotors with dual piston calipers. Im guessing your looking for cobra front brakes, not cobra R front brakes like the title says. Cobra R's have brembo calipers and those kits are like $2,000+.

 

[ZMan]

All mustang rear disc brakes are the same. 96-04 cobras have the 13" front rotors with dual piston calipers. Im guessing your looking for cobra front brakes, not cobra R front brakes like the title says. Cobra R's have brembo calipers and those kits are like $2,000+.

Negative, some mustangs have non vented rear rotors, cobra rotors are vented, 11.6".

Ill post some links this week, im currently on my phone, its harder to find the front kits as the person who was making them no longer does it, but there are other people doing it, and there are also alternatives (like 12" sport trac brakes).

You DO need a kit to put rear mustang brakes on a ranger, or at least brackets for the calipers, the kit i got from summit racing came with caliper brackets and rotors, the brackets needed modified to work with the ranger axle, which wasn't hard.

 

[JoshT]

I too am going to assume that you are wanting to upgrade the front brakes. I'm not going to type the information up again, but here's a link to where I posted some of it in the past. The information is basically the same except you don't need to worry about swapping the beams. FYI the dual piston calipers on the 95-97 trucks will be a big upgrade to the single piston you have now, and you have to have those spindles to do the brake upgrades. Might want to give the dual pistons a try before going to the more expensive upgrade kits.

12" front brake kit links, he hasn't made any in a couple years IIRC.
Info: 12" brakes for 95-97 spindles
Sale thread: FS: Kit to put 12" brakes on 95-97 2wd spindles

Links for 13" brake kit. The Tee-rev version, not currently produced though you may get lucky and he have a set on the shelf from the last batch (very unlikely).
Info: 13" Cobra brakes for your 89-97 Ranger.
Last group buy: 13" brake kit

Link for other version of 13" brake brackets:
Another 95-97 Spindle Brake upgrade?
I don't call this last one a kit because he doesn't include the hub. You have to get stock rotors, and find some local to machine them to work.

The rear is much easier prospect though I don't know about 13" rotors back there. You'll have to find a plate that will allow you to mount the caliper to the axle. There are brackets available out there on the internet to mount mustang brakes to the 7.5, any version of the 8.8", and I know the small bearing 9", believe it's available for the large bearing version as well. I don't know as much about these since I'm swapping in a complete explorer axle.

 

[JoshT]

Why are you planning to build beams? There's no reason to build beams, but to answer your question the best spindle option from the I-beam rangers is the 95-97 spindle.

If you are going to that much fab work, why stick with beams. Install a different clip and be done.

Again I ask why do you plan to build a set of I beams?

 

[kryptonitecb]

in the end its still a truck.

Exactly, so why not use a set from a truck and brace them.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[JoshT]

Beams are incredibly simple and i could build a set in a day. But yes it would corner better with a mustang ll clip.

Really dude, then I got one more question. Where so you live, and when will this thing be on the road? Hopefully not in my area, and not when I'm driving.

With that please don't ask me for help (not that you were) because I will not support that build an any way. Don't want anybody to be able to point fingers at me when your beams break and you kill somebody (yourself included).

Last thing I'll say is do yourself and the world a favor, keep you eyes open for a used set of drop beams. They come available all the time at great prices compared to new. They have had a lot more time and money spent in development and testing than what you can put into doing your own in a day.

in the end its still a truck.

Why do people keep saying that. In the end it's what ever the f you build it to be. Ok, it has a bed, whoop-de-damn-do. If you want to build that truck so it handles like a high dollar sports car, sure you can call it a truck but it's so much more. The fact that it handles like a sports car doesn't have to subtract from it's abilities to be used as a truck either. I wish people would loose the "in the end its still a truck" mentality, and build what the hell they want to build.

For now mine is being built with 3" drop beams, axle flip, 5.0, and 4R70W. The next step for the truck will be a 331, a TKO-5/600 or T56, and possibly forced induction. In the future I plan to have MII suspension (if not a 1 off design) with a triangulated 4-link in back, and balanced out as close as practical to a 50/50 weight distribution. It's primary purposes will include cruising, carving corners, and semi-DD. Guess what It'll still be used as a truck too, if I need to haul a load of wood, tow a trailer, etc it'll still do it. Sure I might have to throw a set of load assist bags over the axle, but it'll still be used as a truck.

 

[kryptonitecb]

Josh calm down this is still just the internet

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[wr250rdr]

I gotta side with josh here. Unless you have a high level mechanical engineering degree, years of fabrication experience, experience with material properties (specifically failure points and material strengths), access to precision tooling and welding Equiptment, and an extremely safe testing area. You are not qualified to build a set of beams. You will create stress points in your welds, no matter how talented you think you are, that is why they are precision welded by machines that control every detail exactly and you won't choose the right materials because they are generally not available OTC. The stresses require either very thick and heavy castings, like your stock beams, or high carbon steel that has been heat treated that is extremely hard to weld, this is what djm makes their beams out of and they have specialized welding Equiptment. So even if you design a perfect beam and make absolutely flawless welds with no hot spots your beams will crack and fail, be it in one mile or 50, because you don't have access to the materials that are required to undertake those loads reliably. To give you an idea of the forces your suspension goes through: on impact with a pothole at 55mph a 3000 pound cars suspension will have an instantaneous load of 20g's. A guy I ride with wrote his doctorate thesis on this and that is the average load, he now works at lockheed on the u2 program. The weight, spring rates and tire choice factors into the equations. But given the weight of a ranger is about 3800 pounds you can expect to see loads higher then that, and even still higher if you plan on running a tire with a smaller sidewall. Now really think if you want to under take that project and feel confidant in your work at highway speeds. There is good reason that you don't see beam build threads anywhere on this forum. And very good reason that companies spend hundreds of thousands of dollars in development of design and purchasing tooling and Equiptment for beams because that is what it takes.

Also what are you planning on taking out an additional 8 inches? The outer angles of your beams? If so why? The task of that project is enormous for a group of guys in a professional shop let alone a guy in his garage. Not only would it demand drastic manipulation of the body but dramatic changes to the frame, motor mounts, and all suspension components the steering components, all of the electrical harness would need to be added to to account for the additional distance. If your going to go through that much of a redesign why would you not just build a complete tube front end? And do an adaptation of a mustang 2 front end that will save you a lot of money, time, frustration and effort in a very short amount of time. 8 inches is a lot to add even in total.

Also depending on what state you live in, even if you don't have a safety inspection the vehicle code of your state still applies and frame modification and deviation from factory design not done by a licensed shop is a standard violation across all 50 states. If you are pulled over for even a minor traffic violation the officer has every right to impound your car and render it unsafe to be driven on public roads, revoking your registration and declaring it non road worthy in the DMV data base. Once your vin is attached to that status it can never be brought back to street use in any state.

Also if you plan on staying at the stock ride height I again ask why the 8" stretch? Keep in mind that a wide body kit at most adds 2 inches on each side without frame modifications specifically for tire clearance.

Now if you have stuck around and read through this, I don not mean to detract you from creating your ideal truck. Im simply informing you of the tasks that such a project will require. And most importantly the extreme risks you will undertake by building beams.

@josh
I'm all for building a killer functioning street truck that can out carve a porsche! Those are my eventual plans with my truck. But without the 5.0 swap but rather turboing stroking and boring my 2.3. When you do your 4 link please do a build thread that sounds like an interesting read.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Dude, your looking WAY too far into it.... Any GOOD fab guy could build a set of beams and radius arms to run under a ranger without any issue. I'd have no problem building a set in my own garage that I'd throw under a V8 ranger and push them across the desert as fast as it was able to without fearing them falling apart.

It doesn't take a team of engineers and hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of machinery to make a set of beams...

Garage fab -

 

[JoshT]

OK, I dont want to drop or lift the ''TRUCK'' i want to go 8 inches wider total. So if you with all your knowledge know were to find a set tell me, and i will go with them to save you the stress !

I still stand by what I said (the mentality part), it's just applying to what I assume is intended to be a prerunner not a street machine. I'd also like to point out that prior to my last post you never stated your intents for the truck. Most people asking about Cobra brakes are going the lowered street truck route. Those people are going to be beating on the suspension on the street, and that's where it is most likely to fail. Sounds like your plans are to beat on it off road, if it's going to fail that's where it's most likely to happen.

Could you possibly use a set of full size beams instead of Ranger beams?

Knowing your intents I'm not as against building your own. If you are going to do it go full custom like the ones posted above. Sounded like you wanted to stretch stock beams, and I wouldn't trust the stock beams to hold up after cutting and welding. If you do decide to build you own custom beams you could use almost and spindle you wanted to.

Trust me you aren't the cause of my stress. It just escapes here on occasion.

That's not exactly a set of modified stock beams. Those appear to be completely custom.

 

[ZMan]

Well hell, if you have access to a machine shop than you could make the kit yourself. After you get the hub made from a stock rotor and have the mustang rotor in place, it would just take some measuring to make the caliper bracket.