1/4 Mile Run Times - 1994 2.3 / Automatic

[The Bandit]

Nothing appears to be tampered with at all. This truck had 85,000 miles or so on it when I bought it, and it was old lady driven.

She ran it in a ditch and caved in the driverside fender and door. So I don't have a door tag for the truck.

It suprised me, I guess I should do a google search and see what I come up with.

 

[modelageek]

Nothing appears to be tampered with at all. This truck had 85,000 miles or so on it when I bought it, and it was old lady driven.

She ran it in a ditch and caved in the driverside fender and door. So I don't have a door tag for the truck.

It suprised me, I guess I should do a google search and see what I come up with.

the tag is on the drivers side jamb not the door.......take the axle code and look it up in the tech forum

 

[The Bandit]

No tag on the jamb either.

Is there any other way to get the axle code, like from the vin number?

 

[steve63]

mine dosent have the tag on the door jam ether,i was only able to tell by the numbers just right of the axel ratio,on mine it said 3.73 then 7.5.

 

[The Bandit]

I'm starting to think my MAF probably needs a good cleaning, as its never been cleaned. The truck had the most god awful amount of dirt and mold in the air filter, probably from where I drove it on so many job sites and such.

I'm starting to think that maybe the MAF is giving an incorrect measurement and messing with the fuel injectors, timing, and such. As the truck will surge at a steady pedal position, and will also ping and spark knock under load from time to time.

 

[The Bandit]

Cleaned my MAF last night. Used vice grips on the stupid ass Ford security screws (Dealership Work security), cleaned the filaments with MAF cleaner and put it all back together with regular screws. Took the battery cable off for 10 minutes and reset the computer.

It idled low, and ran sorta rich at first. But after a couple of run cycles and idling for 30 minutes or so it seems to be doing better. This eliminated some of the pinging under load, but I suspect the Ignition is also responsible. Wide open power seems to be a little better high in the RPM's, not much difference down low-except it's much smoother off idle now.

 

[steve63]

sounds like its doing better,but also sounds maybe like an ignition module problem,as the trucks timming isnt compensating for load and driving conditions,unfortunately low-end torque and the 2.3 dont go together well lol,these engines seem to make their best power from 1500-4000 rpm,maybe if u can find about a 2000 rpm stall converter,u might get enough rpm off the line for a better launch.

 

[The Bandit]

I'm thinking of switching to a 205/70/15 tire all the way around. My tire is just tall enough to put the 3.73's into the economy zone I think. A little smaller and I swear it would have a bit more "motivation" at low speed.

 

[steve63]

mine came with the 215/70-14,switched to the 205/70-14 cause i got a deal on them,made a slight difference on acceleration,but that was a very slight difference in tire size

 

[MikeInID]

"It cannot take a curve over 55 because of the Twin I-beams"

I wonder how all of those SNORE/BITD etc trucks with TIB front suspensions consistently manage to go way over 55 mph through corners, off-road then?

I go about 70-75 through corners on the freeway in my '87 2wd beater on a regular basis, and I don't even have a front swaybar!

 

[The Bandit]

I'm referring to the twisty, euro-style, roads in my area. It actually does do pretty well on the interstates and freeways, but not so well on the backroads. Even when it was in perfect alignment.

 

[steve63]

i think thats why ford changed front suspensions in the late 90s,a wider tire and a bigger anti roll bar helps them,but they dont handle well,i know a 215/60-15 will fit easily.

 

[The Bandit]

This truck has the front and rear roll bars, Splash springs (I think 1.5-2 inches lower), and 225/70/15's. It just seems to have a little too much body roll and feels "strained" when carving corners, like it trys to steer or pull itself to the side that is compressed the most. Its hard to explain, but I just try not to push it too hard.

 

[MikeInID]

no, man, I know exactly what you mean.

The handling pitfalls of leaf-sprung, I-beamed relics of automotive history are painfully obvious, especially when you're used to driving "proper" cars. I've had an affinity for euros (vw's, mercedes-benzes, volvos and the like) ever since I could drive. I've owned at least one of the aforementioned makes at different times (once I owned one of each at the same time!) and still have an 80' 244 volvo, and I gotta say they are in a different universe of vehicles as far as handling, stability and safety go. You wouldn't think so, but the Volvo corners on rails and runs like a long, slow and low tank. When I hop behind the wheel of the truck after driving it for a while, I'm all over the place. Even the wife's 2000 xterra handles like crap after being used to the Volvo. You can polish them up, throw all the sway bars, ABS, ESP, traction control etc. at them you want and they'll still handle like what they are: trucks!

 

[The Bandit]

Yes, theres nothing like a tight, well mannered car. And the euro's always manage to get them right.

However one of the tightest and best mannered vehicles I've ever driven was a '88 S-10 shortbed 4-cylinder that I bought that had been lowered 4-inches all the way around. Manual steering and no front sway bar. I've always wondered what it would drive like with a stiff ass sway bar front and back, poly bushings, and some wide tires.