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03 Ranger 3.0 OBD not ready for smog after drive cycle


Ok well i also did that also, so I guess the IAC is working and there isn't at least a major vaccume leak.... Thanks for explaining.
 
Thanks for explaining. Did that also and it dropped to 600, so I guess the IAC is working.
 
Should drop a little lower than 600 so you probably have a pinhole vac leak.
 
Oooo, ok Ill check harder for vacuum leaks, or get it checked.
 
No, 600 is fine, as long as it drops below minimum warm engine idle level, computer's "target" level, all is well
And 2003 with automatic is probably 750-800rpm target
 
I always thought 500 or less. But Ron is the expert here. Learn something new every day
 
500 is what I use as well but as long as the WARM engine idle drops to under target idle RPMs when IAC Valve is unplugged its OK

There are a few reasons it might be higher than 500, one is that the anti-diesel screw needed to be adjusted to set TPS voltage a bit higher to get 4.5v at wide open throttle(WOT)

And you could be right, a small vacuum leak could cause the extra 100 rpm, but it wouldn't effect engine operation since IAC Valve can set minimum target idle(above 600) and its not enough extra air to even set Lean code
 
I'm gonna flush my coolent bc it looks really gross, maybe oil change, (I know this should have been first step before smog). I'm hoping/thinking that I haven't completed the drive cycle correctly, especially the coasting down from 55 to nearly a stop and returning to that speed - which is a bit scary in a busy city (SD), I'm gonna attempt it on a weekday mid-night. Also I talked to my local mechanic and he said, to put some 91+ fuel and injector cleaner in the tank and then do the drive cycle. So I'll try that. (fuel filter was changed about 15k miles ago)

Thanks for all the info. The positive is - I'm learning valuable car knowledge.
 
K/N filter is not always the best way to go.

When you oil it how much is to much? How much is enough?

Cold air is outside the engine compartment.

Ray
 

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