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02 FX4 twin stick version.


Around here, a "Twin Stick" Is a single transfer case, 1 stick to engage hi/low, 1 stick to engage 2wd/4wd.

Then you add a doubler to the transfer case and have a triple stick.
 
Well I went with auto even though I drove manual 50 yrs I was told auto can be nicer for off road and I agree
also if you get stuck on the freeway and end up with sore knee
but I'm not against them at all every car I had with rare exception was manual and I always swore by them
probably better from reliability... except for 5th gear I guess but you don't need that for off road (;
 
looks good

do they use salt on the roads in your area?
Not sure about CorbinRanger but they use salt here

IMG_4201[1].JPG
 
Around here, a "Twin Stick" Is a single transfer case, 1 stick to engage hi/low, 1 stick to engage 2wd/4wd.

Then you add a doubler to the transfer case and have a triple stick.

Not really a hard answer.

A single stick for the tcase and one for the doubler would be a twin stick too.

Mine has one stick for the rear and one stick for the front and then a 5 speed shifter to boot.

Those chrome levers are pretty rare. The knobs are even more rare.
 
Around here, a "Twin Stick" Is a single transfer case, 1 stick to engage hi/low, 1 stick to engage 2wd/4wd.

Then you add a doubler to the transfer case and have a triple stick.
On the most common twin stick transfer cases like the Dana 20, Dana 300, Atlas, and NP205 the setup is Rear axle Hi-N-Lo Front Axle Hi-N-Lo, What you have described is like a twin sticked NP203 with a part time conversion.
 
Around here, a "Twin Stick" Is a single transfer case, 1 stick to engage hi/low, 1 stick to engage 2wd/4wd.

Then you add a doubler to the transfer case and have a triple stick.
Ranger Slang I guess...
 
Well I went with auto even though I drove manual 50 yrs I was told auto can be nicer for off road and I agree
also if you get stuck on the freeway and end up with sore knee
but I'm not against them at all every car I had with rare exception was manual and I always swore by them
probably better from reliability... except for 5th gear I guess but you don't need that for off road (;
You can send it a wee bit more with a manual....
 
Not really a hard answer.

A single stick for the tcase and one for the doubler would be a twin stick too.

Mine has one stick for the rear and one stick for the front and then a 5 speed shifter to boot.

Those chrome levers are pretty rare. The knobs are even more rare.
On the most common twin stick transfer cases like the Dana 20, Dana 300, Atlas, and NP205 the setup is Rear axle Hi-N-Lo Front Axle Hi-N-Lo, What you have described is like a twin sticked NP203 with a part time conversion.
I like the fact that there is ZERO electronic engagement tomfoolery.
 
I like the fact that there is ZERO electronic engagement tomfoolery.
I agree I won't have an electric shift transfer case, the one I have now came with one but I got a good deal on it and I am swapping a manual shift transfer case in.
 
There is one thing you should learn about a manual transfer case. Don't try to force it into 4WD. Sometimes the gears don't line up when shifting into 4WD. It is best to put low pressure on the lever and keep moving until it drops into 4WD (just make sure the rear wheels are rotating the same speed as the front wheels). The shift fork inside the transfer case is plastic (at least mine is) and too much force can break it.

Low range is usually not a problem but it is best to be stopped when doing it. Moving slightly is okay if you know what you are doing.

Shifting out of 4WD is not any problem. If the transfer case is in a bind, you can shift out with the lever, but there is a spring mechanism inside that compresses to let it stay in 4WD. As you continue driving the bind is relaxed and the spring mechanism will eventually shift it out of 4WD.

An electric shift transfer case lets you shift without having to think about it, but can be problematic too.
 
There is one thing you should learn about a manual transfer case. Don't try to force it into 4WD. Sometimes the gears don't line up when shifting into 4WD. It is best to put low pressure on the lever and keep moving until it drops into 4WD (just make sure the rear wheels are rotating the same speed as the front wheels). The shift fork inside the transfer case is plastic (at least mine is) and too much force can break it.

Low range is usually not a problem but it is best to be stopped when doing it. Moving slightly is okay if you know what you are doing.

Shifting out of 4WD is not any problem. If the transfer case is in a bind, you can shift out with the lever, but there is a spring mechanism inside that compresses to let it stay in 4WD. As you continue driving the bind is relaxed and the spring mechanism will eventually shift it out of 4WD.
I always stop completly whether its a push button or manual shift. I noticed recently on the 02, after shifting out of 4 low into 2 hi the 4 low light stayed on which wasn't a big deal since I knew it wasn't in low but the speedo acts bat s*@t crazy. Buried the speedo doing 80kph. Had to stop and gently cycle through everything til the light went out. Good times.
 
It sounds like your low range sensor is getting stuck. I don't know where it is but I do know it changes the speedometer. I think that is its only function other than lighting up the low 4WD light. I am pretty sure the anti brake strategy changes when in 4WD but I doubt that changes when in low range.
 
It sounds like your low range sensor is getting stuck. I don't know where it is but I do know it changes the speedometer. I think that is its only function other than lighting up the low 4WD light. I am pretty sure the anti brake strategy changes when in 4WD but I doubt that changes when in low range.
It does it in both now, but gently cycling it turns them out for now, not that I use it that often. I found a tech drawing on here showing the sensor. Number 69....lol. It's on the front top of the case passenger side of front shaft. This isa gooder web site.
 

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