The Saga of Truck Norris

[lil_Blue_Ford]

That's good advice, thank you. My release schedule will likely be sporadic at first. I need to learn some video editing, and I'm jumping off the Microslop Windblows train. I believe Mint is in my near future...

Yeah, I ended up way behind on pushing videos out at one point so I was dropping one a week to catch up some and now I’m more caught up but still kinda behind. Doesn’t help at all the time required to edit and render the videos. I’m currently still using Windblows but Linux of some flavor is probably in my future. My current video editor is available for both plus Apple and the cost was right (free). I’m using KdenLive (think that’s how it’s spelled).

Tried a few other editors and finally settled on this because it’s given me the least amount of trouble. Not exactly the easiest to use since it’s sort of pro grade but I was able to figure out the basics. The one I used before it was a little more basic but it started crashing my computer and rendering at 1 frame per second on bigger videos or ones that I had to add a bunch of stuff like fast forward and background music and stuff.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

So, I have a question. My front end suspension is almost all brand new. The only pieces that aren't installed yet are the sway bar bushings, and while I know that they're the weak point in the situation, the noise that I'm hearing concerns me a little. That noise sounds like loose wheel bearings. Now, as far as I know, the method and specs of setting the torque on the spindle nut say to spin the brake rotor in the opposite direction of the wrenching motion, tightening to 26 ft. lbs., then loosening the nut by 180° and retorquing to around 20 in. lbs.

It makes me reconsider my actions when the clunking that I can't feel but can hear occurs over every poorly patched pothole portion (ha! Say that 3 times quickly!) or railroad crossing. That doesn't sound normal, and I'm sure Ford wouldn't have gotten to 2008 with the Ranger if the front end sounded as shifty as mine does.

Now, I'm sure I could eliminate the swaybar possibility by just installing the new bushings, but the bearings' movements are somewhat insulated by the new, softer tires, and I think that a clanging steel bar would be felt much more solidly since I have yet to replace my cab bushings and replacing the engine & trans mounts increased cab vibration. It's also hit triple digits in the South and I live in an apartment, so IYKYK.

Is it common to recheck spindle nut torque after so many miles? I think I might've asked this question once before, but maybe I did something wrong. Maybe my torque wrench clicked off early on the initial torque in ft. lbs. I don't know. I'm going to recheck anyway, but I thought I'd ask and see what insight, knowledge & experience was out there.

 

[SenorNoob]

I've heard quite a few numbers on that style of wheel bearings. I find if I run them 200-500 miles then reseat and retorque. I don't have problems unless I did something wrong or have wear somewhere else.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

I'm switching out to LED's for the exterior lighting! This Novita EP27L will keep me from having to worry about electrical load. I swapped out my incandescent bulbs in the reverse light housings with Sylvania Zevo 3157 LED (no resistors), and aside from the fact that it looks more form over function in the housing, the LED module lights behind the truck really well. I will get some pictures tomorrow evening. It's given me the motivation to continue with the rest of the lights since the electrical system could care less about whether or not there are bulbs in the housings.

My friend who detailed my truck has Auxlight LED's in both of his JDM Toyotas, and I have to say that the light distribution is better than stock. There're no LED hot spot anywhere in the signal housings and the LED headlights are crisp and have a great cutoff line in a projector lens.

Future upgrades (will update the master parts list in Post 11):

• Novita EP27L digital flasher
• Front turn signal: 3157A (amber switchbacks),
• Rear turn/brake: 3157R (red)
•  Reverse: 3156 (white)
•  License/tag: 194/T10 (white)
• Parking/marker: 194 (amber)

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

Much delayed, but here's what the reverse lights can do with the Zevos:

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Much delayed, but here's what the reverse lights can do with the Zevos:
View attachment 146389
View attachment 146390

So… I didn’t stop there (I have had Zevos in the Green Ranger for like 5-6 years now). I added some LED flood pattern driving lights for auxiliary reverse lights. Did that modification when I built a rear bumper a couple years ago. Makes a huge difference, especially when backing up a small trailer at night. Gonna do it to all of my trucks as I get to building each a bumper. But I’m probably not the average person that owns a truck, lol. Zevos are probably fine for the average person

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

So… I didn’t stop there (I have had Zevos in the Green Ranger for like 5-6 years now). I added some LED flood pattern driving lights for auxiliary reverse lights. Did that modification when I built a rear bumper a couple years ago. Makes a huge difference, especially when backing up a small trailer at night. Gonna do it to all of my trucks as I get to building each a bumper. But I’m probably not the average person that owns a truck, lol. Zevos are probably fine for the average person

Oh yeah. I've got plans.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Oh yeah. I've got plans.
View attachment 146422

I couldn’t go that route with the green Ranger being lowered and needing to put the hitch in the middle of the bumper, lol

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

I couldn’t go that route with the green Ranger being lowered and needing to put the hitch in the middle of the bumper, lol

You're much better at fabrication than I am! That ball mount is going to look like a snorkel! I still wanna see it.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

Lately, progress has been about the small wins. Today I learned that Moog doesn't lubricate their Problem-Solver line of control arms. At all. I've been raw knuckling it the whole time.

After several exclamations of , I set about using my trusty Harbor Freight grease gun. Nope. Gummed up. Well, at least I have my other trusty HF grease gun... Damn it! Half worked and then, for some reason, it just won't pump either. No spring back in the piston, either. Because I didn't want to waste any time with cleaning the guns, I went back to Harbor Freight. Now I have three of the ers. Does it work? I don't ing know. I'll load it with more kitchen floor lubricant - I mean, red & tacky - and see if that is cause for more fowl language.

The small win?. The new silicone sway bar bushings are on. Also, silicone lubricant is almost impossible to find. I ended up going with a dielectric grease (see pics) #80085 - or something - because It's much, much quieter in the front and, but that was what drove me (literally) to get the ball joints lubed. One side is mostly done. Oh, the front hubs feel good as far as the bearings go, but I'm reseating them again anyway just to make sure.

Now I feel a vibration in my seat that really makes me think a Ranger 8.8" rear axle assembly is in my future, because if I'm going to spend anything on this truck it's getting upgraded. I really hope I don't need it, but I'm afraid to pop open that cover.

Lots more to fix, like, I dunno, the forward crankshaft seal?

Might as well do the coolant pump & hoses, power steering system, timing chain assembly, valve cover gasket, PCV and hose, check all grounds, and maybe swap out the alternator if it needs that, too, because my new digital turn signal keeps time like a Chinese Casio knockoff.

Here's it going in. Everything you'll need:

• A socket set
• Automotive grade double stick tape
• A pair of blue scissors
• A 40 oz., glass swear jar.